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More progress on this stupid gear box. Finally found a shop that can help, they're quite unsurprisingly in Australia. They hooked me up with an input shaft which I'll have in my hands sometime next week. Also, after more comparing, my tail housing, per Tick Performance, is one they've never seen before, but all the castings on the Magnum when it comes to where stuff goes, lines up with what I've got. The only exception being the shifter rail, due to the better for me shifter placement. The TUET7270C gear box has an almost identical mainshaft, it's a tad under 20mm longer. Which matters not one bit, because you need a custom driveshaft when using one of these in a Datsun anyway.

 

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Here's a better set of pictures explaining why I think OverkillZ's picking up the late John C's mount is helpful. I'm running an almost bigboy turbo, and you can see the issues I'll run into as I start the downpipe and inlet for the turbo. The motor needs to lean towards the driver side if it's going to lean at all, and needs to shift more towards the driver's side.

 

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10 hours ago, Nelsonian said:

Even though I am not at the point of choosing my turbo just yet, I am always keeping an eye out for what works on others builds, Thanks.

 

The Suprastore manifold is basically a copy of what I'm using with the option to use whatever wastegate you want, or none if going with an EFR turbo.

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Gearbox fun continues. Removed the stock transmission mounts on the car. Need to at least buy the correct shift rod. The current one is too long to let the Magnum housing seat all the way. So no test fitting for a bit.

 

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  • 7 months later...

Two foot surgeries later, I can work on the car in spurts before having to take a break. Here's what I've done over the last few weeks.

 

Finished making the TR6060 from Oz into a T56 Magnum (only better).

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Got my twinplate clutch in. Went with a Spec twin, and I'll be using a Tilton slave to avoid the disaster that plagues the Spec TOB's.

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The Spec and like most other twin plate clutches use a thin flywheel that isn't compatible with the standard bolts we buy. Not wanting to grind on ARP flywheel bolts, or buy a set that someone else ground away on I went through the ARP catalog and found these. ARP Part number is 204-2801. Requires a 12mm triple square to install.

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They're the ideal bolt for this flywheel. Standard bolt is the 12pt, 

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Overkill Z's reproduction of the Betamotorsports crossmember. It required a bit of flex on the factory motor mounts to get it to bolt in all the way, but it fits much better than the CX Racing mount.

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However, install on a 280Z is a little trickier than I initially thought. Turns out the cups for the tension arm are a bit different on the 280Z and interfere with the crossmember quite a bit. The driver's side isn't too bad, and requires a small trim. The black sharpie tick mark you see is 13.5" away from the firewall. I wanted to get as close to that mark as possible.

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The passenger side on the other hand, required a lot of trimming. I would have to cut into the reinforced area to get to my 13.5" goal, instead I'm settling for 14" from the firewall, which will put the back of the block 1" away.

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Now I'm off to get some more c-clamps because my harbor freight wood working clamps aren't going to cut it on the next step of the project.

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  • 6 months later...

New job has had me busy till recently. 

 

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Might have to do some work on the hood latch. If I wasn't running IGN1A's this wouldn't be an issue.

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Main thing is it's in there and it's straight.

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Also started on the rear end.

 

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