Jump to content
HybridZ
mrk3cobra

Hoke Performance LS2/T56 install starts today.....

Recommended Posts

It's possible but unlikely IMO, so long as the water pump is moving water through the block and you don't have a giant air pocket blocking water from reaching the thermostat. Have you checked the temperature of both hoses running to the heater core? Have you also tried running heat through it to see if you get hot air? This is the thermostat I ended up running btw:

https://www.jegs.com/i/SLP/847/100228/10002/-1

 

Once the car is warm, I never see temperatures down to 160 ever. About the lowest my gauge ever shows is 170 even with the fans running at highway speed. It seems to like to live around 190, which I'm more than happy with here in Georgia, as I can see spikes to 200-210 if I'm stuck sitting in grid or traffic for a while.

 

Are you sure you installed the new thermostat in the correct direction? My best guess is that if you can get the thermostat to open even a little bit and burp the system, this issue will solve itself. It wouldn't but fun, but another thing you could do to verify the water pump is functioning correctly and you're able to fully remove the air from the system would be to fully pull the thermostat for a one full heat / vent cycle...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great work, glad it finally got more work done.  We kept the factory GTO surge tank.  Ugly but never had any issues burping.  Vent from radiator and steam vent both   T into Surge tank.  We also kept the T in the heater hoses that feeds the surge tank.  Similar to this.  We only have the surge tank not the overflow.  

 

 lsx_coolant_flow_diagram_88c74bdd9f900b0

Way back when we had a heck of a time burping the FFR GTM.  Keep at it, way to far ahead to stop now.  Richard. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oops forgot, the simple answer on the tie rods is a bump spacer.  They do not do too much but will help that angle a lot.  Lots of discussion on other threads on how well they work etc.  In my opinion they are worth it just to keep the tie rod angle better.  Richard. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I definitely had a heck of a time burping mine until I installed the sight glass and hooked up the steam vent line. I think going with a 160 degree thermostat also helped. I bet you're right on the edge of your current thermostat wanting to open. I'd probably still swap to the 180 degree, but even with the current one installed I'd be tempted to let it get hotter and keeping a close watch on the sight glass and the OBD2 scanner. Heck, LS2 fans don't even switch on until over 220 and 230, some quick googling seems to indicate even running up to 240 should be OK (particularly at idle). If you can get the thermostat to start opening even a little bit (before hitting 240), I bet this all sorts itself once all the air bubbles leave the system.

 

Also agree with Richard on the tie rod ends, I'm personally running the integrated bump steer + knuckle replacements from AZC:

http://www.arizonazcar.com/lowarms.html

 

I wanted quicker steering input for autox + with wide tires and no power steering. If that's not interesting to you, you can get a cheaper set of just bump steer spacers which install over your current knuckle.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thermostat not opening solved. I installed a 180 thermostat. The new thermostat opens at 186, the old one was opening at 203, the problem is the computer measures the temperature at the cylinder head. There is a  difference between the cylinder head and the temperature at the thermostat housing. I was seeing  the thermostat housing 14 degrees less measured with a inferred temperature gun. So with the 180 thermostat it opens when the temperature at the cylinder head gets to 200 degrees. I have the first fan programmed to come on at 210 and the second fan programmed to come on at 217. I think I will lower the first fan to come on at 202.

 

If I would have let the temperature at the computer sensor reach around 218 I think the original thermostat would have opened.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No power steering here, but I'd love knowing whether or not that kit works with a Hoke-mounted LS2. For "daily driving" scenarios like 3-point or very low speed turns, it's definitely a bear. Personally, at speed or autox/track events, the only thing I notice about _not_ having PS is a more direct feel to the road.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Amazing build, I'm jealous!!

I think Our Electric power steering kit would fit with the Hoke LS / T56 mount kit. Here are a few pictures that might help you guys. I have not personally tried it, But there is not much different in the engine bay since the whole EPS kit is a new steering column. It does cancel out the stock rubber disk on the steering shaft. We moved the shaft as far away from the V8 headers as possible. See pictures. So Clearance is probably better than stock steering system. Let me know if you have any other questions?

unnamed (3).jpg

unnamed (1).jpg

unnamed (2).jpg

IMG_8748.JPG

IMG_8747.JPG

image1.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm using an electric power steering setup on my LS3 swap build.  I am using the Hoke engine mounts, but with a modified Apex crossmember.  The steering rack and shaft are not stock, but they run in the same place as stock, and are actually a bit bulkier than stock.  You can see the shaft clears (barely) the base of the Hoke mount.

 

Honestly, with electric power steering and the stock parts, it is completely a non-issue as all the power steering components are under the dash anyway.

 

I can't say I am 100% excited with the "feel" of the EPS, but all I have done is power it up and test it as the car is not yet running.  It reminds me sort of like the "dead" feeling over-boosted power steering on 1970s Detroit cars.  There is a knob with the EPS to control the power boost, but it is less than perfectly linear/predictable.  This is NOT a Silver Mine kit, theirs may well be different or better.

 

My plan is to have a switch, power it on for slow speed maneuvering, and more than likely turn it off on track or at speed.

 

G4Hswuw.jpg

 

aBe8GLK.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

If you get lucky, you can buy a electric power steering (EPS) unit out of a 2006-2011 Toyota Yaris - (Without ABS) and connect it to your VSS. Most EPS units get the speed signal via CAN BUS but the 06-11 Yaris without ABS received a standard VSS which allows for it to easily be swapped into other vehicles (supposedly). I bought a unit a few years ago but havent installed it yet as Im in the middle of my own rebuild... Ill let you know how it goes in a few years.

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/1848775-35-electric-power-steering-fail-safe-no-ebay-module-no-caster-issues.html

Edited by walkerbk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Finally finished the car. Just finished passenger seat, and front windshield install. After reading issues with after market windshield seal, I went with Nissan seal and the install of the windshield went great the seal fits perfect.

 

More pictures to come when the weather gets better.

 

Next up maybe a supercharger and electric power steering.

20200328_181200.jpg

20200328_181127.jpg

20200328_181104.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...