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gmorrone1214

Building MS2 V3 Board

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About to start up the car this weekend, just have to finishing wiring the distributor and the fuel pump and then its good to go.  

 

May be a dumb question but wiring the distributor as per this diagram 

 

Image result for 280zx megasquirt turbo distributor 12v site:forums.hybridz.org

 

----The 12v+(B/W):  Guessing this is switched? I am using the relay board, so is there any slots I can plug it into or just find a random 12v switch wire?

Edited by gmorrone1214

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Looking at your pics again I see some potential issues.

 

I would not put a "pull up "resistor like thats why theres a proto area. You can make things more tidy and if a connection was to break from bad joint or shock/vibration you have a short waiting to happen there. Use the proto area or atleast put it on a wire and heat shrink it.

 

Secondly I can see some of your mods but can you can list ALL your jumpers like this VROUT TO ABCXD , s12- js9 etc etc somethings in your pics is just not adding up maybe I have been on vacation too long. But me thinks you will not get RPM or Spark out.  with MS theres more than 1 way to do the same thing.

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10 hours ago, softopz said:

Looking at your pics again I see some potential issues.

 

I would not put a "pull up "resistor like thats why theres a proto area. You can make things more tidy and if a connection was to break from bad joint or shock/vibration you have a short waiting to happen there. Use the proto area or atleast put it on a wire and heat shrink it.

 

Secondly I can see some of your mods but can you can list ALL your jumpers like this VROUT TO ABCXD , s12- js9 etc etc somethings in your pics is just not adding up maybe I have been on vacation too long. But me thinks you will not get RPM or Spark out.  with MS theres more than 1 way to do the same thing.

 

I acutally changed it using the proto area after posting that picture. So now the resistors sit in there with leads to the appropriate holes. 

 

Jumpers are as followed:

 

VR Sensor:

-VRIN to Tachselect 

-TSEL to VROUT

 

Single High Output Coil 

-IGBTOUT to IGN

-330r 1/4w res IGBTin and top of R26

 

Power

-S12c to JS9(+12c)

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Just posting an update and also an issue 😑.

 

"Had" the car running on the build from this thread but also added PWM IAC (TIP120) to the board as well, which was amazing for idle tuning. 

 

Car was running on the board build for the past 4 months and I finally got my water/meth installed and was starting to tune for boost with the HY35 turbo setup. 

 

Now out of no where I am getting a really weak spark from the coil to distributor.  Color is orange and blue sometimes, very erratic, super weak(have to hold it really tight to a ground), and will not travel to a spark plug end. 

 

I checked the coil resistance and that checked out.  I also used the test mode in tuner studio and it fires the coil but the spark is super weak.  I also put a test light on the neg coil while testing and it doesn't dim on/off, reading the volts they drop but does not fully ground out.

 

Thoughts may be the bip373?  Is there a way to check if it is fully functional (ohms reading).  I thought they were pretty  bulletproof?  I read a bunch of threads also about it grounding out on the heatsink. I pulled off the bip373 and double checked for burs. It is mica insulated with the metal screw and insert.  

 

I ordered another bip373 already assuming that may be the issue. Any thoughts or advice moving forward?

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Does anyone happen to know about running LSx(1) coils, logical spark. 

I have read multiple threads and I cannot find a definite answer. 

 

Question is:  Can I run Ls1 Coils, as wasted spark, without the 3 BIP, and run off the dizzy VR sensor?


I believe the answer is yes and I would have to mod the board for logical spark output.  

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Yes. And you don't necessarily need to run wasted spark. Three IC's will give you 6 channels of logical spark (or go MS3X). Fairly easy to wire up in the proto area. Here's another weird thing: you can use a Nissan 6-channel ignitor and Ford 4.6 coils. I paid about $30 for 8 Ford curved boot coils - The Nissan Ignitor runs them well.

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On 8/7/2019 at 3:34 PM, cgsheen said:

Yes. And you don't necessarily need to run wasted spark. Three IC's will give you 6 channels of logical spark (or go MS3X). Fairly easy to wire up in the proto area. Here's another weird thing: you can use a Nissan 6-channel ignitor and Ford 4.6 coils. I paid about $30 for 8 Ford curved boot coils - The Nissan Ignitor runs them well.

 

Thanks for the Info.  I went with the LS coils and installed using 5.3.1.3 Logic spark output- FET driver method using the TC4427AEPA.  I installed it all yesterday and used the stim to verify if the circuits were working.  All verified to be producing outputs via to LED illuminating. 

 

Now its time for the fun part of in-cooperating it into my relay board wiring. 

 

So on the relay board S5 relates to pin 36 which is Spark A.

Spark B and C however are SPR3 and SPR2.  SPR 3 and SPR 2 are both ground wires on the relay board connector at pins 4 and 5.

 

Would I be able to splice the wires coming from pin 4 and 5 from the relay board harness and wire them into Wire Pin 31 ( IAC2B, S4 on relay board)  and wire pin 29 (IAC2A, S3 on relay board).

 

Im trying to keep everything running through the relay board as to not have a rats nest of wires coming out of the DIY relay board harness. 

 

References are attached. 

Relay Board DB reference.png

Relay Board Schematic.pdf

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Got it all wired up and am getting spark to all plugs.  However, the car will not start.  It is hiccuping and wants to start but wont turn over completly.  

 

Spark A 1-6, B 2-5, C 3-4.  Posted my MSQ and start log as well. 

 

Not sure if it matters but the dizzy cap is on with no wires (this wont cause an issue right?)

 

Any help would be appreciated. 

Wasted Spark - No Start.msl CurrentTune.msq

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4 hours ago, supernova_6969 said:

Sounds stupid and basic, but have you checked basic timing?

 

are you certain your injectors are giving enough (or not too much) gas?  I forget if you have a O2 sensor.  although, if it's not burning everything uip, the readings wouldn't be accurate.  

 

 

 

 

 

I mean the car was running perfect before I switched to LS2 coils (Wasted Spark). Baseline tune was situated and had perfect startup (warmup) with a PWM idle valve. But I have not checked timing again since I originally set it and haven't touched anything with the settings. 

 

Not sure if I have to change any of the injector setting now due to the change to wasted spark....

 

Pulled plugs and replaced with a fresh set.  Just tried to crank over, still having the same issue.  Pulled the plugs and there was a little bit of gas on the end, nothing extreme (I mean I figured it may start allowing more air in, and still nothing)

 

I have a wide-band, but no reading due to no start. 

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B44ltrAZLqiAbGt4cWR2N2FUdU1RYjg0UHZiel8tS0ZlQmlz 

 

Video of spark 

Edited by gmorrone1214
Video

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5 hours ago, HuD 91gt said:

Authentic LS coils? My first set ended up being knockoffs and never ran correctly. How’s the spark when you test the outputs?

Testing the outputs all of the coils spark in their respective channels.  

 

I then took all the spark plugs out and grounded them to make sure they were sparking on actual ignition events (read a post on the megasquirt forums someone had an issue where it would spark on testing output but not on ignition cycle)  however, not the case.  All spark plugs were firing.  The VERY weird part was I had on plug in the cylinder head with 5 removed and was cranking it over.....well the vehicle actually turned over a ran for a split second ON ONE CYLINDER?! 

 

Craziest part is that the ignition coil (clinder 6) that I tested I just randomly put it into cylinder #4... which makes no sense on how the vehicle would turn over.  

 

I went over the outputs and everything is going to the respective cylinders. 1-6 A, 2-5 B and 3-4 C.  

 

I will post the attempts again,  looks like the wideband is reading around ~10 when cranking which is super rich.  However, I got it to read in the 13-14 and still would not turn over. 

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If it ran with a single plug, in the wrong hole I’d be checking your timing. Considering a well tuned engine would have trouble doing that in general. One which is 120 degrees out is even crazier.

 

check your base timing at TDC and go from there.

Edited by HuD 91gt

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