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HybridZ

Triple Blowthrough Turbo


Dat73z

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@Zetsaz if you're ever in the bay area give ZCG a call and see if you can try the setup on their shop car. The full package is really impressive tbh from the KWs, Rebello stroker, stoptech brakes etc. Well worth the wait. Rob is a great guy and experienced driver driver. 

 

@AydinZ71 thanks still weighing swain versus full inconel shielding again. I think I need to see how the clearances turn out with the cnc manifold first and go from there. 

 

This past week or two I've been working a lot but it looks like I finally have some time this weekend to get back to the build. At least a few hours. Hopefully some updates soon. 

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47 minutes ago, Dat73z said:

@Zetsaz if you're ever in the bay area give ZCG a call and see if you can try the setup on their shop car. The full package is really impressive tbh from the KWs, Rebello stroker, stoptech brakes etc. Well worth the wait. Rob is a great guy and experienced driver driver. 

 

 

Honestly wish I'd stopped by during my pacific coast cruise, but that was around peak covid time so I was just camping out of the Z on the way to my brother's in LA.

 

How are the KWs vs something like BCs? What did you have before? My only complaint just by looking at them is that you can't set preload independently and change ride height with a threaded body like the BCs, but I honestly don't know enough about suspension dynamics to say if that's that much of a difference at the end of the day.

 

I think for an old car I'm actually not too noisy, but on bumps the pillow ball at the top coupled with the camber tops being metal right onto the metal of the car adds more noise than most things. I've almost been tempted to create at least a little poly "shim" between the coilovers and the strut towers so it's at least not metal directly onto metal. 

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@Zetsaz I had the t3 setup before so GC coilovers and Koni yellows. I ran multiple spring rates and configurations including pillow ball top hats. It was a really nice setup for all the years I had it. My buddy who had BCs actually bought my setup because the BCs ride terrible comparatively. The KWs imo are a few steps above the t3 setup and they're compression and rebound adjustable. 

 

Tonight I finally had a few mins so I pulled the old rack and prepped the new one along with changing the ball joints at the front with some new moog units. I think I want to repaint the steering shaft but it's supposed to rain tomorrow so we'll see how the weekend goes. 

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Nice change of pace today, got up at my normal time which is way too early and got the new rack situated. I think I need to get back into the routine of putting an hr into the build every AM. Did some measuring as well between the exhaust and new DP and I don't think I'll need to order any more pipe but I'll need to order another vband flange from Vibrant. 

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Almost done for the weekend, got the full ZCG setup about wrapped up on the front. Just need to get the brake lines reattached and check for clearances against the tires. The rest of the limited time I have will be spent on cleanup and measurements. 

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Some reference pictures of the most common leak points I've found on dcoe type carbs when boosting. 

 

The aux vent and main vent are sealed with special hardware, cap screws and fiber washers. 

 

The pump adjustment and pilot screws are sealed with cup washers and orings. 

 

Depending on the carb any through holes need to be plugged with set screws and/or sealant. 

 

Finally any pin locations from machining should be covered with epoxy. 

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Some additional SK/OER reference pictures as there isn't much information on these carbs out there especially since they're boost friendly. Comparing the vintage SK 50mm bodies to the newer production OERs.

 

It is apparent the vintage castings are of higher quality also with more attention paid to machining steps. For example on the newer OERs the barrels just have an abrupt step to the aux venturi whereas the vintage bodies have a nice chamfer machined in. This attention to detail carries throughout, I would assume due to cost cutting. 

 

If you have the vintage bodies in good shape/configuration (chokeless) it would be worth restoring them over the new production. 

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Last week I modified the 280z rear stub axles for the ZCG stoptech brake kit. The cast nubs need to be ground down to clear the machined AL rotor top hat, an issue not present with the cast rotors from the t3 wilwood brake kit. The stub axles material is extremely hard. Later this week time permitting I will paint them and continue the suspension refresh/reassembly. 

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Just a quick update got the rear 280z stub axles stripped tonight and ready for paint tomorrow. More parts trickling in this next week but making steady progress, trying to do 1 thing per day again against the daily schedule. Some house renovation projects as well in the background and maybe the garage next, remove all the cabinets from the 60s and redo the floors and walls. I'd love to open the ceiling and install a lift. 

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On 9/30/2023 at 8:23 AM, Dat73z said:

Nice change of pace today, got up at my normal time which is way too early and got the new rack situated. I think I need to get back into the routine of putting an hr into the build every AM. Did some measuring as well between the exhaust and new DP and I don't think I'll need to order any more pipe but I'll need to order another vband flange from Vibrant. 

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Is that an ST front sway bar? Doesn't look like you have spacers on it. Do you have any issues with it fowling against the frame rails on the outside? Mine seems to rub and it looks like if I hit a particularly rough bump I'd probably just slightly bend the pinch on the outside. Right about where it curves to the rear it just touches. 

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@Zetsaz it's the OE front bar powdercoated with poly bushings and endlinks. I had considered bigger sway bars but they seemed more trouble than they're worth. I made AL spacers for a rear bar in the past which could likely help in your situation, just get some flat plate and drill some holes

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More parts trickling in. I'm going back to the OE trans mount for now. 

 

For some reason I seem to recall the moulding was a lot beefier, where this new OE mount the moulding seems super thin. I'll need to do some digging to find the OE mount I was using before and compare. 

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On 10/14/2023 at 10:24 AM, Dat73z said:

@Zetsaz it's the OE front bar powdercoated with poly bushings and endlinks. I had considered bigger sway bars but they seemed more trouble than they're worth. I made AL spacers for a rear bar in the past which could likely help in your situation, just get some flat plate and drill some holes

 

Makes me wish I hadn't tossed my originals. I don't like the way the rear one mounts on the 280z, but I honestly don't have much of a need of stiffer sway bars. At best I do a bit of canyon driving and I'm probably too scared to slide off the road and ruin all my time (and money) to really push the limits.

 

As far as the transmission mount goes that looks correct. Like @madkaw said it definitely flexes a lot. When I first installed my 71c transmission it had enough flex for one of the bolts to put a nice gash on the side of my shiny new T3 trans crossmember. 

I still have the original and it's honestly not bad with the new Kameari engine mounts since now there's not much side to side movement and the trans mount really mostly needs to be fore/aft isolation. 

 

If you're not trying to go solid mount or find a stiff poly alternative you could do what I did for the engine mounts and buy a Kameari mount. Supposedly 1.5x harder than OEM but still rubber. I might be doing that when I pull the trans to fix my rear main leak. I'm honestly very happy with the compromise between OEM and poly on my engine mounts

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Likewise I'm not pushing it 11/10 on the streets in my typical driving but I am considering maybe putting a OE ZG or early 240 rear bar on but we'll see once I get the new setup dialed in. I actually sold 2 former track toys this past few months so maybe the Z will get some more use if I don't end up getting another fun/daily car...getting tired of having multiple projects. 

 

That's some good points on the trans mount. I couldn't find my other OE mount but I seem to recall I dinged my t3 crossmember due to trans movement under high load/boost but otherwise it felt like a good match with the milkfab poly engine mounts which basically cut the engine rotation down to 0 and there was minimal cabin noise. 

 

The poly trans mount is too harsh and there was basically 0 movement of anything with a lot of gear noise being transmitted to the cabin.

 

Maybe I'll try filling the OE trans mount with window weld or find some lower durometer inserts for the poly trans mount. It would be interesting to set up a camera and see what direction(s) things are moving. 

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Just a quick update I got the steering coupler re-painted. Looking it over, the ujoint seems ok but maybe I should replace it at some point since everything else is new (it's the later staked type).

 

I'm going to focus on cleaning up my workspace as it would probably be good to let things continue curing out, but I think it's mostly just reassembly from here. 

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I thought I'd get a break but apparently I'm working again this weekend. Still planning to squeeze some time into the Z between family and other obligations. 

 

I've been working with an exceptionally talented designer on the intake manifold. The 2nd print came in so I did some more mockup. 

 

I think this weekend the objective will be to get the rear end back together as the parts I painted have cured for a week or so now. It'll be nice to get the car back on the ground or at least on dollys

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