wingwalker Posted January 10, 2019 Share Posted January 10, 2019 (edited) I am about to order this bracket and a similar one on the passenger side for an a/c compressor. But I worry they may not clear the sides of the engine bay. The engine is a Vortec 350. The car is a '77 280Z. If not these brackets, which? I have finally cut away and patched up the rust that grew under the batter tray, welded up excess holes in the engine compartment and have a JTR kit. Following the JTR book, I am now "dressing the engine," as the author puts it. So I want to attach stuff like these brackets and adjust belts before setting the engine in place. Edited January 10, 2019 by wingwalker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhm Posted January 11, 2019 Share Posted January 11, 2019 Maybe I missed it, but did you actually specify which bracket you're considering in your post?? A picture by itself will not suffice. You may prefer to install all the accessories before installing the motor; but I personally have found that it's easier to get the motor into the engine bay without all the peripherals attached. Personal choice. I don't know what bracket that is that you're considering, but you may want to check out Alan Grove Brackets. They produce a great selection of high and low mount brackets for all requirements for multiple engines. Good luck with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wingwalker Posted January 13, 2019 Author Share Posted January 13, 2019 Thanks, JHM. These are ICT Billet brackets, and I went ahead and ordered them. I was assured by the vendor they would attach to the Vortec engine okay, so the fit in the engine bay will be the next unknown. For the pair, I'll save almost $50 if they work. I did find drawings with dimensions of both these and the Alan Grove brackets, and in comparison with the Grove equivalents, these appear to be within a half inch different in both side and height. So, we'll see. I'll post the results. I agree that an engine without all the stuff hanging from it will be easier to get in, but I want to test fit all the stuff while it is still accessible. That includes ensuring the pulley alignment is spot on and the belt sizes are determined. Just a lot easier with the engine at a nice working height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhm Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 Gotcha'. I don't know if this will be of any use to you, but I measured the space between the base of my valve cover and the inner fender, and it was approx 6.5". (Engine is an iron-head SBC, mounted halfway between JTR setup and Scarab mounting position.) If you have the ability to mount a small-body alternator, I'm sure that would give you more clearance to play with, no? Good luck with it, and be sure to post an update with your final results! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wingwalker Posted January 14, 2019 Author Share Posted January 14, 2019 Thanks, JHM. I'll post results after the brackets arrive and I then do a test fit of the engine in the car. Fingers crossed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhm Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 One other thing, on the subject of alternators.... Forgot to mention this in my previous post, but db electrical is a great vendor for starters and alternators. They offer standard and mini-size components for most engines, and it's really high-quality stuff. Have been using their units for years, without any issues. You may want to look at using one of their mini alternators if space is tight using that bracket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nullbound Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 That ICT bracket looks like it may not clear. I used the following March Bracket kit to mount mine on the passenger side: https://marchperformance.com/chevy/chevy-small-block/brackets/long-water-pump/chevy-small-block-ultra-alternator-brackets.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhm Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 Nice, nullbound. I really I could find a good quality high-mount bracket for use with a short water pump, but haven't had any luck with it. May just have to make one myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nullbound Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 19 minutes ago, jhm said: Nice, nullbound. I really I could find a good quality high-mount bracket for use with a short water pump, but haven't had any luck with it. May just have to make one myself. Thanks! I looked into that at one point, too, with the swp but they all seemed to mount too far out and would either hit the inner fender well or not clear the hood. This bracket kit for the lwp is pretty simple, looks clean, and worked well with my mostly stock wiring. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wingwalker Posted February 14, 2019 Author Share Posted February 14, 2019 Okay, as promised, here's the update. The ICT brackets put the alternator and compressor out too far. There is just over 31 inches between strut towers in the engine bay, and these brackets put the alternator to compressor distance out 32.5 inches. And with the JTR mounts, the engine is offset, which means on the passenger side, there is no hope of clearing. So, back to square one. I looked at the March options, and the alternator bracket will work. Nullbound's installation looks very nice. But I'd like to have the alternator on the driver side so that the compressor will be on the pass side, allowing a cleaner path for hoses. And I cannot find a March option that will do those things. Yikes, this has been done many times. There is an answer, but so far I'm lost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wingwalker Posted February 23, 2019 Author Share Posted February 23, 2019 So, I sent the ICT brackets back, and Summit Racing's tech support guy suggested I talk with the Vintage Air guys (because I will be installing their system). The Vintage Air tech gave me parts numbers and I ordered them from Summit. They arrived in two shipments, with the alternator kit arriving Wednesday. I've bolted it in place, and once more, I think I am in trouble as far as fitting into the engine bay goes. It does indeed pull the brackets in close to the centerline of the engine, but wow, they put it up in the air. My measurements seem to show very severe conflict with the hood. And the compressor kit arrived yesterday, and clearly it will do the same. Once again the issues are: 1. Engine has Vortec heads with tall valve covers 2. I need the compressor on the passenger side, and alternator on driver side 3. It all needs to fit into the engine bay of a 280Z with a small-block (long water pump) engine sitting on JTR mounts. Please help me on this. This problem has to have been solved dozens of times. Photos of the latest bracket below: The issue of clearance with the valve cover can be cured with a mini alternator, but I suspect that the compressor will have a less-easily solved issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caperix Posted February 24, 2019 Share Posted February 24, 2019 I'm running a tpi serpentine belt set up on my 260. I have not bolted the hood back on yet, but I don't see any visible interference issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhm Posted February 25, 2019 Share Posted February 25, 2019 wingwalker, do you have the option of doing a low-mount alternator (on the driver side)? That's what I did with mine, and I have roughly 1" clearance between the alt and the frame rail and no interference issues with the steering rack. (However, the JTR mounting location might make a low-mount difficult?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LLave Posted February 25, 2019 Share Posted February 25, 2019 Smaller alternator? What is the part number for the bracket you are using there? Can the bracket be configured so that the alternator is on the side of the valve cover, over by the header? If you are dead set on that location you could cut, notch and weld up that valve cover. A quick google shows me that many people have done that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wingwalker Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 Capernix, jhm and Llave, Thank you all three for the responses. Jhm, I have rotated both brackets and, yes, it appears they can be modified so that both the compressor and alternator will be located lower. I'm thinking of dropping the engine into the bay and onto the mounts to determine just where I have room. Then I'll mark up the brackets for mods. After that, I'll take everything back where it is easier to work with the engine on a stand. Likely I'll find a few other issues to deal with while it is temporarily in there. Llave, a smaller alternator may also be part of the solution. But the size of the compressor, I think, is fixed. I plan on using a Vintage Air setup, and the system that will fit under the dash uses a Sanden 508. The 508 is a bit larger even than the 507 I have on hand, and that thing is larger than the alternator. Probably I should start worrying about it interfering with the headers. But I'll wait until the whole mess is in the engine bay. There is an answer, I know there is. I'll have to wait until the weather warms a bit before I hoist the engine. The part of my shop where the Z lives was at 14 degrees this morning and it hasn't warmed much since. I've been driven back into the house (where I should be working on my income tax filing--but, yuk, I'd rather brave the cold). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LLave Posted February 27, 2019 Share Posted February 27, 2019 I used a VA Sanden 709, it was pretty compact. But like you said, you will run out of room fast. Everything wants to occupy the same space at the same time. Have you checked hood clearance with that alt bracket? Probably ok, but looks like it might be close. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhm Posted February 27, 2019 Share Posted February 27, 2019 Check this one out: http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/images/Dimensions/214L.GIF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wingwalker Posted July 11, 2019 Author Share Posted July 11, 2019 Here's the latest on the bracket saga. I tried three sets sourced by Summit Racing, and when the third set (made by Grove) was going to hit stuff, I bit the bullet and fabricated (actually, I modified the last set I got). The folks at Summit were super about the returns, but when the third set didn't work, I felt embarrassed. After all, three times! I used 1/4-inch aluminum plate to make the modified parts, and used as many parts as I could of Grove's stuff. The compressor is off now, but with both in place, I measured and measured, and I am now certain--well, almost certain--that these will work. Here are some photos. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wingwalker Posted July 17, 2019 Author Share Posted July 17, 2019 The engine is in and bolted to the front mounts. And it appears my modified brackets will work. Whew! Here are a few photos. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Posted July 29, 2019 Share Posted July 29, 2019 (edited) I'm confused... on all of your various iterations, the alternator is outboard of the driver's side cylinder head. Why can't the alternator be placed in front of the cylinder head, if necessary with "long"-style water pump, and thereby more tucked-in? Edited July 29, 2019 by Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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