Athena 77 280z ls swap

[walkerbk]

Well this weekend was very productive with a horrible ending.

 

I got the rear finished welding, rear suspension in, rear brake lines in, front fenders on (just for fitment), built a new transmission cross member, and then went to mount the rear fender flares and could not be more disappointed with the fitment.

 

I had to finish powder coating all the rear suspension and I had to cut the strut tower to allow for full adjustment. Since the rear suspension is over the rear brake lines, I figured I better put them in now instead of forgetting and having to pull stuff out.

 

I am going back to the front fenders and mounting the flares with 10-24 SS thread inserts. They have been very troublesome however so I might be switching to Aluminum ones. I first had the harbor freight special install tool and I broke it so I have been trying to get them in via DIY tool and they are a pain.

 

The old transmission cross member was made when I didn't have a real welder (Microwave home made welder) and it was made from scrap so I decided to make a new one out of 1x2 tubing.

 

Everything was going good until I decided to try and mount the rear fenders. Please note these are not "True" Rocket Bunny flares but knock offs. To top it off, they were not meant for a 2+2 so the body lines are are slightly different. I had hoped that I could "Make it work" but I don't know how anyone could ever mount these even on a regular body. I would have had to stretch them so much they would cracked with minimal flex.

 

So my rear fender options are back to square one. I am looking at using the https://www.fiberglassmafia.com/datsun.html Wide ZG flares or the Z Speed flares. Has anyone ever used anything from fiberglass mafia? I messaged them and they responded very quickly.

 

Any Suggestions???

[calZ]

https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/128708-wide-body-build-thread-fiberglass-mafia-kit-molded/

[walkerbk]

@calZi have read that thread at least a 100 times. They fit very nicely but I was looking at their other kits and possible fitment on a 2+2 (I think the lines are the same, just front to rear distances are different) 

[walkerbk]

I have been able to get a lot done on the car over the last week.

 

I decided to go ahead and order the Z Speed fender flares from Fiberglass Mafia. I figured if they were not exactly what I wanted I might be able to cut them down to make them ZG Wide Flares. Of note, I only bought the rears as I still plan on using the rocket bunny front end. I emailed them my request and they responded with an extra option on the website in less than a day. Very quick customer service.

 

https://www.fiberglassmafia.com/S30-240z-260z-280z-Z-Speed-Fender-Flares--Rear-Pair_p_61.html 

 

The weather is going to be a little warmer this weekend so I decided to start preping for epoxy primer. It is going to be in the 60s still so I will through the heater in before and after spraying as I have to have a minimum of 70*. I have the main body stripped down and am just getting the finishing touches cleaned up. I have been using some paint stipping disk I got from Amazon and have been very happy with them. They work very quickly, create minimal heat and last a long time. I have only gone through four on the main body so the 10 that I bought should do the entire body.

 

https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Grinders-Removes-Strips-Cleans/dp/B07YKMPRBC/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_rp_c_2_0_2/145-6868535-7298507?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07YKMPRBC&pd_rd_r=077cf418-53f2-45de-8f35-503ed1d6a6d9&pd_rd_w=AvZtb&pd_rd_wg=ZtqOv&pf_rd_p=45ea3989-28e2-45c9-97ac-7e99f613a91b&pf_rd_r=DGZ2407QX3QGY50QZJ19&psc=1&refRID=DGZ2407QX3QGY50QZJ19

 

I did during stripping the body found one last rust spot that could not be cleaned out. so I decided to do a quick repair along with patching the other rear bumper area.

 

I am hoping to get the paint booth set back up tomorrow and spray epoxy either tomorrow afternoon or Saturday morning.

[walkerbk]

Besides ccw, where do yall get wide rims in 4 lug? Felgen werk is giving me the run around after having an order in for over 1.5 years. I'm at the point where I can't move forward without rims and tires as I have to mount the rear fender flares.

 

I'm going to start stripping all the body panels while I continue to wait or find an alternative. 

[walkerbk]

How does everyone paint the fuel filler area? I got it in black primer but I don't think I can get a good coat of metallic base or clear coat. Do yall just leave it black or o yall use like a detail gun of sorts?

[walkerbk]

Well, based on some other sites, I lowered my pressure, tightened up my fan and dropped my paint supply to almost none existence and it worked ok... almost like fogging on some powder coat...

 

Anyways, I got the final coat of sealer on. I will start laying down my 2 coats of color and 3 coats of clear first thing tomorrow morning... wish me luck.

[walkerbk]

2 coats of TCP restoration shop fire red pearl urethane basecot over the black primer and then 4 coats of custom shop 2020 clear coat (only 2 in the engine bay).

 

There are a few nibs here and there but for the most part it is very clean.

 

 

Now to start doing the rest of the parts, interior, and wiring.

 

I know every auto painter out there is cringing at the fact that I am painting the parts separately but I do not have the space to paint it all together.

[grannyknot]

Hey that looks pretty good, are you going to sand the clear coat? I paint in a similar sized garage so I know how tough it is to keep things clean and find enough room.

[walkerbk]

I'm going to wet sand and buff once I get the wheels on and can roll her out of the garage. 

 

That being said, I am still waiting on my rims after almost 2 years... I think I might have to get some temp rims.

[calZ]

Two years?! Where did you order them from? 

[Ironhead]

Looks great, I really like the color.

 

I think the key to getting a good paint job as a relatively unskilled painter with marginal equipment and environment, is to put the clear on slightly thicker than normal (maybe three coats instead of two) and just plan on wet sanding/buffing the entire job.  It is a bit of work to do, but actually goes fairly fast.  It allows you to remove all the dust nibs, orange peel, and other flaws that you are bound to have no matter how careful you are.  Even runs are fairly easy to sand and buff out.

 

Basically by doing this, you are using your own labor (free) to make up for defects and flaws that come from lack of painting experience and facilities.  Most professional paint jobs will not include wet sanding/buffing unless it is really a big money job, just because it is so time consuming to do.

Edited July 4, 2021 by Ironhead

[walkerbk]

Its by no means a pro job but I'm super happy with it. I did multiple wipe downs with wax and grease remover and tacked it right before. I had the garage door open about a foot and had multiple fans pulling exhaust out and then I wetted the floor (after I swept and mopped for almost a whole day). The worst part about it is knowing I got to do the rest of the body panels now.

 

Well I got some more done. I mounted all the brake lines, master, booster, front cross member, some of the trim and got the driver 1/4 window in.

 

For the 1/4 window I powder coated the upright and used all new hardware, replaced the seal that holds the window in and reused the body seal. Trying to save money while also getting the best bang, I searched and found a seal (d shape I think) that fits nicely. This should replace the 1/4 window and the top door seals.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0733TDRLB?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

[walkerbk]

So, I have been on leave (kind of) and have gotten a lot done on Athena. I have moved on to the next thing I can do without wheels on the car and that is interior sound deadening.

 

I ordered Noico sound deadening stuff for the fire wall and the floors from Amazon for about $80 for everything.

 

I ordered thicker foam (1/4in thick) for the firewall and it ended up being way more than I needed so I decided to use it in the trunk and still have 6 sheets for the doors. This foam stuff is very sticky and shouldn't have any issues down the road pending issues with heat. For anyone worried about weight, this is the stuff for you. When I got the box I thought it was empty. This stuff is light.

 

I got the thinner stuff for everywhere else. It is the standard stuff that looks like tar (doesn't smell) and is foil backed. I haven't started with this stuff but cab tell you it is heavy (about 1/2lb per sqft).

 

I also have steel fuel line on order and should start working on the wiring next.

 

Below is the links to the two products I got.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07QW2RL2Q/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExTlFEV1dNRFhDNkpPJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTQ4MjQzM1NUSUROSUlNUVhJSCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDc3MzE0MUFRSjEzNFJRUUlOMiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdA==&pd_rd_i=B07QW2RL2Qp13NParams

 

https://www.amazon.com/Noico-deadening-Automotive-Insulation-dampening/dp/B00URUIKAK/ref=pd_aw_fbt_1/142-5099796-2266522?pd_rd_w=T79EB&pf_rd_p=5a17cc08-b2ad-4a9b-927b-db1f6ea04791&pf_rd_r=PJ4D91WDH4GJA829T9KQ&pd_rd_r=7834d1ae-0b14-489a-b893-5bd904d0957a&pd_rd_wg=Cf8UU&pd_rd_i=B00URUIKAK&psc=1

[walkerbk]

Got two of the door hinges rebuilt. Everything was disassembled, sand blasted, soaked in zinc phosphate and then powder coated black. I am just waiting on parts to get the other two built.

 

I ordered the bushing and pin kit off Ebay from westworldautopartsuser and I was somewhat unsatisfied with everything at first but after finishing the first set im happy. When I was assembling the set it felt as though there would be a large amount of play due to the pin being loose in the bushings and the bushings being loose in the hinge body I do not believe this to be the case now as the final assembly was crazy tight.

 

The roller bearing was worn beyond me wanting to reuse it so I found a decent replacement from Tractor Supply Co (Part number PHX36375100 See photo) in the form of a steel 3/8 to 5/8 bushing. It is almost identical the the original except it is slightly longer. 2-3 minutes on the bench grinder and it was shortened and polished up to ensure smooth operation for years.

 

I am hoping to get the other two built this weekend and maybe even picking up my rims finally.

Edited August 18, 2021 by walkerbk

[walkerbk]

Not much has been going on except I got my new rims and they fit great. Fronts are 15x11 wirth 265/50r15 and rears are 15x12 with 295/50r15. I am still getting them polished and cleaned prior to putting all the tires on the rims.

 

My unit got activated to go support efforts on the Dixie fire complex in California but I got these photos the night before I left. They are WIDE as ill get but they fit great.

[walkerbk]

Wow it has been a long time. I have finished painting everything and it turned out ok. I had to paint the remaining body panels in two batches and messed up one of the batches clear coat so I will have to go back and cut and reapply another coat. The remaining parts are good to go.

 

Since finishing with the paint and body I have transferred my focus to working on the electrical components of the car. I an utilizing an EZ wiring harness and the quality of the kit is very good but like many have said, there is nothing easy about it. The kit is made for a Chevy with a 350 or older engine and not a Datsun with an LS swap, on top of that, EZ wiring will not provide a schematic or anything more than the basic instructions which makes it harder to modify it. I laid it out 10x times and rerouted multiple wires along with removing all the extra "through" wires. 

 

I also modified the harness to meet two intents. 1st I wanted to route all the wires through the passenger and driver fenders to have a cleaner engine bay. 2nd I wanted relays for the high and low beam (which helps as the original Datsun combo switch was to ground and not power).

 

I was able to get all the wires run for the combo switch, front, rear, center counsel. Everything except the engine bay (because I'm still planning out the exact placement to hide the wires) and the wiper circuit.

 

I am working on the wiper circuit which isn't to bad as I saved the original wiper wiring; bagged and tagged. I am also using a Honda wiper motor with the original wiring. I have most of it cleaned up and ready to install whenever I get time. I am planning on running the wiring into the engine bay right behind the passenger defrost vent. This is tucked way up under the windshield trim where there is no wiper linkage on the passenger side so no fear of pinched wires and no one will see the wires.

 

Next I am going to work on getting the engine wiring done up (which will be run through a bulk head connector) and the AC wiring (I want everything here prior to buttoning this up). 

 

Whenever I am done with the wiring I am going to make a video explaining everything and the pin out.

[walkerbk]

Still working on the wiring but I have moved onto the engine and dash wiring. I would like to tie it all in together prior to installing the engine or any major interior parts.

 

I got all the wiring split into "two" engine harnesses; 1x for the pas side and 1x for the driver.  The original idea was  to run everything through a connector at the fire wall to support removal in the future but after rebuilding the harness i decided against it. Both sides will go through their own 1in hole in the fire wall right over the engine heads prior to meeting and heading to the passenger side where I will have the ecu mounted in the kick panel.

 

It is almost starting to look like a car again.

 

Next up... continue to work on wiring and install the ac system, and sound system (trying to run all the electrical components).

[A to Z]

Outstanding work!

[S30forever]

Sweet build... any more updates?

About to start on my own ls1/t56 swap into 1976 280z