chiefmd Posted May 23, 2020 Share Posted May 23, 2020 Thanks, but like I've said before your post and advice made it much, much easier than if I would have started from scratch. Nice. I haven't jumped on it yet because I'm a little concerned that the stock stub axle might give up. I think I'm going to upgrade to cv's. No I did it after the trans was in. I looked at the plastic console and it just wasn't hacking it so got some 16 gauge metal and fabed it in two pieces and covered it with foam and vinyl. I'm going to redo the armrest as it is just a little too low. I have some pictures that I'll post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildfire490 Posted May 31, 2020 Share Posted May 31, 2020 (edited) On 4/21/2019 at 12:01 AM, Box5 said: The fuel tank upper port is 7/16", lower port is 5/16" (for anyone wondering). Hey Box5, I just discovered your post and I'm really impressed with the work you did and your Z looks like it turned out great! I was wondering if you could explain your fuel setup a bit more to me. Maybe even with a diagram? Is your LS getting enough fuel with the 7/16" port on your tank? I'm curious because I'm about to drop a LT1 into my 280Z and I'm going to need a bigger supply line. From the factory LT1 Camaro's had a 3/8" supply line and a 5/16" return line, so I only need to replace the supply line. Edited June 2, 2020 by Wildfire490 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiefmd Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 Wildfire490 - I recently finished my LT1 build using Evans build thread and it came out great. Below is the diagram for the fuel system that he send me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Oben Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 Called inline tube/classic tube, and they made a set of stainless lines with a 3/8 supply and 5/16 return. Did brake lines at the same time for the whole car. They replicate the factory 240Z lines exactly. Only issue was drilling out all the rubber mounts to 3/8, lol. Running the same corvette regulator with an in tank pump. Fully 3/8 from pump to engine using as many factory connectors as possible. HTH, Richard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildfire490 Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 23 hours ago, chiefmd said: Wildfire490 - I recently finished my LT1 build using Evans build thread and it came out great. Below is the diagram for the fuel system that he send me. Thanks for the diagram! I would personally run the filter on the pressure side though. I've heard of pumps burning up because of a filter on the inlet side 13 hours ago, Richard Oben said: Called inline tube/classic tube, and they made a set of stainless lines with a 3/8 supply and 5/16 return. Did brake lines at the same time for the whole car. They replicate the factory 240Z lines exactly. Only issue was drilling out all the rubber mounts to 3/8, lol. Running the same corvette regulator with an in tank pump. Fully 3/8 from pump to engine using as many factory connectors as possible. HTH, Richard. I actually have a 280Z but I'll have to check it out! By the way, it's been a while since I've owned a LS1, but does it not have the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Oben Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 Most LS and other conversions I have seen have a separate regulator on the firewall or use the Corvette filter/regulator to get fuel to the engine. My buddy has a Gen III Hemi in a 73 duster and uses the same regulator. HTH, Richard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildfire490 Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 38 minutes ago, Richard Oben said: Most LS and other conversions I have seen have a separate regulator on the firewall or use the Corvette filter/regulator to get fuel to the engine. My buddy has a Gen III Hemi in a 73 duster and uses the same regulator. HTH, Richard. So are you using two regulators or just one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Oben Posted June 8, 2020 Share Posted June 8, 2020 Just the one. We ran the Factory Datsun lines from classic tube, who made them bigger for us (3/8 vs 5/16), in all the factory locations. We modified the tank for in tank pump with sock. The only filter/regulator is the corvette one mounted at the front of the passenger fender with EFI fuel line going to the engine with the factory connector and an extension from the parts store. HTH, Richard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Box5 Posted June 10, 2020 Author Share Posted June 10, 2020 On 5/31/2020 at 5:44 AM, Wildfire490 said: Hey Box5, I just discovered your post and I'm really impressed with the work you did and your Z looks like it turned out great! I was wondering if you could explain your fuel setup a bit more to me. Maybe even with a diagram? Is your LS getting enough fuel with the 7/16" port on your tank? I'm curious because I'm about to drop a LT1 into my 280Z and I'm going to need a bigger supply line. From the factory LT1 Camaro's had a 3/8" supply line and a 5/16" return line, so I only need to replace the supply line. If you can, get a ID size of the tank outlet port. The 7/16" hose is a tight fit so it may be 3/8" ID already. So far so good though, I haven't noticed it being a problem when I mash it on my stock LS setup, no big power mods (LS6 intake/injectors is about it). The limiting factor in my setup is the 6AN stainless braided PTFE, the ID of that measures out closer to 5/16", so with actual 3/8" ID line you'll be well off. The Baldwin pre-filter I got is extremely high flow, I wanted something to catch potential debris before the pump but I hear what you're saying with the more constrictive filters. The pump seems happy and quiet being mounted so low it chugs along well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Oben Posted June 10, 2020 Share Posted June 10, 2020 Just so people who look at this thread know this is what we did. Of course there is a pump and screen in the tray when done. The system works great in my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonH Posted June 10, 2020 Share Posted June 10, 2020 43 minutes ago, Richard Oben said: Just so people who look at this thread know this is what we did. Of course there is a pump and screen in the tray when done. The system works great in my opinion. I did the same! yet to fire up and drive on my end. I also was able to retain the stock sending unit by simply bending the arm so the foot would not hit the pump assembly in any way. I out the corvette regulator as close as possible to the tank so I made a bracket mounted with rubber on the back to isolate any vibrations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Oben Posted June 11, 2020 Share Posted June 11, 2020 The regulator on ours is at the front. Not sure it makes a difference one way or the other. My thought was the Vette had it up front so put it up front. JMHO, YMMV. Nice job on the tank, we had to bend the center also. Works great, if the sender worked correctly, full is 5/8, e is e after messing around with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Box5 Posted July 10, 2020 Author Share Posted July 10, 2020 Thanks for the tank pics guys, that's definitely a mod I want to do at some point, maybe if/when the external pump acts up. On another note I joined the RB club, I know the wantabe style is used a lot but it's always been my favorite so it was a easy choice. Wheels = Rota RB, 16x7 +4 in Hyper Black (looks like a dark chrome in most light). Tires = Dunlop Direzza DZ102, 215x50r16 (compromised between 225's and 205's) So far zero rubbing anywhere on one hard drive. I really want to lower it about 1" somehow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Box5 Posted July 10, 2020 Author Share Posted July 10, 2020 Also been trying to solve a steering wheel shimmy (vibration) at about 55-60mph not related to engine rpm. I thought these wheels/tires would fix it, which they did help a lot but it's still there just a lot less pronounced. I've done a lot of searching, but the results are pretty much ANYTHING in the front suspension/steering as potential causes other than wheels/tires. So i'm gonna start with the TC bushings since mine are pretty cracked, then tie rods, and test/report back after each, unless anyone else has some advice on that, it would be much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiefmd Posted July 10, 2020 Share Posted July 10, 2020 Evan - I'm sorting the same issue. It's very suttle but it's aggravating. I suspected a wheel bearing even through I I had replaced both sides so re torqued them still no change. While I had the car up I decided to check the inner tie rods as I had already replaced the outer when I did the wheel bearings. I did find a little bit of play on the right side so that on the list to do. Also, I going to switch out the 13" steering wheel for a 14". I think the smaller wheel enhances ANY vibration. The off to alignment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitley_280z_2+2 Posted July 10, 2020 Share Posted July 10, 2020 (edited) I had a shimmy problem like you’re talking about real recently. Didn’t think it was the wheels because they were balance not too long ago but had them redone just in case. This didn’t fix the problem so we went over everything checking for wear and didn’t find anything. Took the wheels to a different place and explained the issue and after they balanced the wheels/tires the problem went away. I guess some shops just don’t know what they’re doing. Also, the car has the exact same wheels as yours which I thought was interesting. Edited July 10, 2020 by Whitley_280z_2+2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Box5 Posted July 10, 2020 Author Share Posted July 10, 2020 13 minutes ago, Whitley_280z_2+2 said: I had a shimmy problem like you’re talking about real recently. Didn’t think it was the wheels because they were balance not too long ago but had them redone just in case. This didn’t fix the problem so we went over everything checking for wear and didn’t find anything. Took the wheels to a different place and explained the issue and after they balanced the wheels/tires the problem went away. I guess some shops just don’t know what they’re doing. Also, the car has the exact same wheels as yours which I thought was interesting. That's frustrating since i've seen that theme in some searches I did, one guy went to 3 places, at the third shop the vibration finally went away when they balanced it correctly. I just had them balanced two days ago, but i'm tempted to do like you did and get a second opinion. Thanks for the feedback. Good choice in wheels btw . I've heard positive and negative things about a wheels on the car balance, but in most cases it completely solved peoples issues. 16 minutes ago, chiefmd said: Evan - I'm sorting the same issue. It's very suttle but it's aggravating. I suspected a wheel bearing even through I I had replaced both sides so re torqued them still no change. While I had the car up I decided to check the inner tie rods as I had already replaced the outer when I did the wheel bearings. I did find a little bit of play on the right side so that on the list to do. Also, I going to switch out the 13" steering wheel for a 14". I think the smaller wheel enhances ANY vibration. The off to alignment. Seems like an all too common issues on Z's and very aggravating like you said. With my old tires, I was at the point of not enjoying the drive anymore. I replaced my front wheel bearings a few weeks ago, but it didn't have any effect on the vibration. An alignment would be smart for me as well, I think i'll take both your feedback, go to another shop tell them my situation and get re-balanced and aligned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitley_280z_2+2 Posted July 10, 2020 Share Posted July 10, 2020 Yeah I think it’s such a common problem because people don’t realize how easy it is to misplace the weights and they don’t check their work. I work at a GM plant where they mount their own tires and even though they have the wheels/tires balanced with a robot they still double check each wheel to make sure all is good. I'm sure you will figure it out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Box5 Posted July 11, 2020 Author Share Posted July 11, 2020 22 hours ago, Whitley_280z_2+2 said: Yeah I think it’s such a common problem because people don’t realize how easy it is to misplace the weights and they don’t check their work. I work at a GM plant where they mount their own tires and even though they have the wheels/tires balanced with a robot they still double check each wheel to make sure all is good. I'm sure you will figure it out! Good news, the straight line shimmy is 100% gone as of today. Went to a buddies and we ran fishing line on jackstands to check toe on all 4 wheels with steering wheel centered (working out degrees later tonight because im curious). Front Left was 4mm toe in Front Right was 9mm toe OUT Both rears were 1mm toe in My Car would track right pretty heavy, and the 9mm toe out explains it all. As soon as I adjusted the front right Tie Rod, we got it dead on 4mm toe in and the shimmy disappeared completely. Can cruise in 5th 2000rpm with a rock solid steering wheel, that use to be the worst spot for vibration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Box5 Posted July 11, 2020 Author Share Posted July 11, 2020 With that said, I still have new tie rods, and some various front end bushings coming to tighten things up even more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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