M_Dragan Posted April 28, 2019 Share Posted April 28, 2019 Hey guys! I finally test fitted my 2JZ in my car. I had a custom made crossmember made (I can’t remember the name) and I only ran into one problem. It looks like the frame rails slightly sunk when I tightened the crossmember in place (maybe I tightened it too much?). Should I worry about this? Dropping the engine in did not make it any worse, and I’m planning on welding everything up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zetsaz Posted April 29, 2019 Share Posted April 29, 2019 Is that on a 240 or a 280? Seems like there are no spot welds on the top side of the rail where you attached the crossmember. It's been a bit since I've been able to compare side by side on with the shell I parted out, but supposedly the 280 had more spot welds throughout holding everything together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M_Dragan Posted April 29, 2019 Author Share Posted April 29, 2019 43 minutes ago, Zetsaz said: Is that on a 240 or a 280? Seems like there are no spot welds on the top side of the rail where you attached the crossmember. It's been a bit since I've been able to compare side by side on with the shell I parted out, but supposedly the 280 had more spot welds throughout holding everything together. It’s a 1973 240z. I can see the spot welds, I don’t remember exactly how close together they are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted April 29, 2019 Share Posted April 29, 2019 Yeah, it's gonna crush the frame rail, unless you have sleeves for the bolts. The frame rail is only made of some thin sheet metal, if all you do is drill some holes through it and bolt it in, that's not gonna work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exposed Posted April 29, 2019 Share Posted April 29, 2019 @M_Dragan Id probably add sleeves as rturbo 930 mentioned. I ended up adding them on my Z as I had a similar issue and upon further inspection it turned out that the rails were rotten. I just recently posted an update on my build thread showing how bad the rails actually were. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M_Dragan Posted April 29, 2019 Author Share Posted April 29, 2019 2 hours ago, rturbo 930 said: Yeah, it's gonna crush the frame rail, unless you have sleeves for the bolts. The frame rail is only made of some thin sheet metal, if all you do is drill some holes through it and bolt it in, that's not gonna work. Do you think I could just pull this slight crush out and install the crush sleeves? Or is this a bigger problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted April 29, 2019 Share Posted April 29, 2019 Hard to say since I can't really see the damage well. It doesn't look too bad, but you'll need to see for yourself. I'm not an engineer, so I don't know for sure that just the crush sleeves will be enough, or if you need to add some additional reinforcement to the frame rail by plating over it. The sleeves will solve your crushing problem, but the metal holding them in is still really thin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted April 29, 2019 Share Posted April 29, 2019 The frame rail is a C channel so tightening them like that will cause them to crush and pull on the spot welds on the wheel wells. You need bedding posts or sleeves as rturbo has said if you are set on that style. The mounts of the style it looks like you are trying to emulate usually require a 90 degree piece that is welded all the way around the frame, it acts to beef up that section and spread the load. Beta's for example actually avoids the top of the rail and uses the bottom and the side to prevent the crushing force it instead pulls vertically down on the spot welds which they can resist quite well and the side to side is basically buffeted between the rails. I think adapting off the factory mounting location is a lot better. The design isn't too radical, similar to the CX ones although I wouldn't recommend those ones as they have a weird offset and height to them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M_Dragan Posted April 30, 2019 Author Share Posted April 30, 2019 2 hours ago, seattlejester said: The frame rail is a C channel so tightening them like that will cause them to crush and pull on the spot welds on the wheel wells. You need bedding posts or sleeves as rturbo has said if you are set on that style. The mounts of the style it looks like you are trying to emulate usually require a 90 degree piece that is welded all the way around the frame, it acts to beef up that section and spread the load. Beta's for example actually avoids the top of the rail and uses the bottom and the side to prevent the crushing force it instead pulls vertically down on the spot welds which they can resist quite well and the side to side is basically buffeted between the rails. I think adapting off the factory mounting location is a lot better. The design isn't too radical, similar to the CX ones although I wouldn't recommend those ones as they have a weird offset and height to them. This is the beta motorsports mount. Originally I bolted it in just to hold it in place and to test fit the motor so I could see if it was in the correct place. I was planning on welding everything up afterward but then this happened Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted April 30, 2019 Share Posted April 30, 2019 Ah, I see. The bracket goes to the side and bottom and you added the plate on top. I’m pretty sure I mentioned the faults with this in the for sale thread now that I think about it, lol. If you want to repair it completely, drilling out the spot welds hammering it back and welding it would be the solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Huntziilla Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 Any updates M_Dragan? I plan on swapping a 2JZ into my 73 here real soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M_Dragan Posted March 28, 2020 Author Share Posted March 28, 2020 On 1/28/2020 at 9:15 AM, Huntziilla said: Any updates M_Dragan? I plan on swapping a 2JZ into my 73 here real soon! Hey man, I apologize I haven't really been on here lately. I ended up having someone remove the bends, add crush sleeves to the rails, and weld the bolts to the rails as well. I'd like to mention though that I only had these problems because I did not weld the crossmember in. If its welded, you won't have the issues I had. I just wanted the option to be able to easily remove the crossmember. You can follow my build on IG if you want: jz_s30 (Ignore the overspray that will be taken care of at a later date) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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