1970 240Z Race Car Front Suspension Issue

[Gmagno]

Mocking up the front suspension on the race car and ran into an issue. Sway bar is too short to match up with Arizona Z lower control arm mounts. Logic tells me i can narrow the distance by drilling another hole and move the lower control arm in an inch on each side. Dimensions of another 1973 240Z I have below along with current 1970 240Z race car. My question is, if I narrow the distance to fit the sway bar, how narrow to allow lower control arm adjustments and will the sway bar stretch? Thanks in advance for the help.

 

1973 240 Z Stock                  1970 240Z  Race car

51" font rotor to rotor W.      51 1/4"

39" sway bar pin to pin.        40 1/2"

52" rear rotor to rotor W.      52"

 

Edited August 7, 2019 by Gmagno

[ZHoob2004]

Is that your T/C rod attached to your sway bar end link?

[Gmagno]

1 minute ago, ZHoob2004 said:

Is that your T/C rod attached to your sway bar end link?

 

No, pic is deceiving, sway bar end link is leaning against caliper.

[ZHoob2004]

I see it now. I find it surprising that a 3/4" difference per side is enough to keep the sway bar from bolting up

[jhm]

Are you proposing drilling new holes in the front crossmember and moving the mounting points onboard 1"?  If so, I'd say that sounds like a pretty bad idea; in that it will hurt your front track width and camber settings.

 

Have you contacted AZC to ask them what the problem might be?  Different end links might be the answer, but it's hard to tell from that picture.

[Gmagno]

I will upload more pics tomorrow. Sway Bar info here. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/stq-50100/applications

[Gmagno]

1 hour ago, jhm said:

Are you proposing drilling new holes in the front crossmember and moving the mounting points onboard 1"?  If so, I'd say that sounds like a pretty bad idea; in that it will hurt your front track width and camber settings.

 

Have you contacted AZC to ask them what the problem might be?  Different end links might be the answer, but it's hard to tell from that picture.

 

I am, but haven't yet. just don't know how the lower control arm can be adjusted out any with sway bar installed, being as tight as it will be once I get it to fit. Didn't call Dave yet. Looking for feedback and planned on sending him a link to this thread.

[jhm]

That doesn't look like the stock crossmember.  Has it already been modified or replaced with a different unit?  If so, that could certainly be causing you problems (if the LCA mounting points are different than stock).

[LLave]

7 minutes ago, jhm said:

That doesn't look like the stock crossmember.  Has it already been modified or replaced with a different unit?  If so, that could certainly be causing you problems (if the LCA mounting points are different than stock).

I noticed that too. Perhaps the LCA mount is already pushed outboard a bit. Everything stacking up creates the difference. 

[JMortensen]

Bend the bar. If you have a press you can bend them pretty easily. Surprisingly easily. 

[silverado22c]

Scott Drake C5ZZ-5A486-ADJ

 

These may allow you to meet the offset of the new bar to where they mount to the lower control arm.  Is your issue more about the new bar hitting the calipers?

[jhm]

MSA carries those same end links as well (slightly better price, too).  https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20g/23-4115

[LLave]

Bending the bar and adjustable links might get you there. Do pay attention to the final angle of the link though. If it is less than 90 degrees, it does change the effectiveness of the sway bar. I I am sure that I personally would not be able to detect a small change, but if the angle gets steep it could be significant. 

 

http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/Sway-Bar-Link-Force-Calculator.html

[Gmagno]

I appreciate all the replies and in hindsight should have posted these pics earlier. Let me know your thoughts. Biggest question again is, can I adjust the lower control arm out on each side if the sway bar is already stretched to the max width? Maybe the end links @silverado22c mentioned is my total solution?

 

 

Edited August 8, 2019 by Gmagno

[Gmagno]

23 hours ago, jhm said:

Are you proposing drilling new holes in the front crossmember and moving the mounting points onboard 1"?  If so, I'd say that sounds like a pretty bad idea; in that it will hurt your front track width and camber settings.

 

Have you contacted AZC to ask them what the problem might be?  Different end links might be the answer, but it's hard to tell from that picture.

 

Found out the LCA's are from Silvermine. Checking with Edan now.

[TUME]

Are those square frame tubes same width than originally? If so, i bet you have wider inner lca pick-up points than originally. 

Are you done that frame by yourself? Why fabricate tube frame and maintain original geometry? I would add caster atleast because you can with than kind of modding.

[JMortensen]

Here's a crappy drawing on bending the bar. Just lay it over the base and push on the bend. Keep measuring eyelet to eyelet. Bend one side until they move 1" apart, then flip and do the same on the other side. 10 minutes max.
 

[Gmagno]

9 minutes ago, TUME said:

Are those square frame tubes same width than originally? If so, i bet you have wider inner lca pick-up points than originally. 

Are you done that frame by yourself? Why fabricate tube frame and maintain original geometry? I would add caster at least because you can with than kind of modding.

 

Nothing is original and everything modded from 1970. Some things replaced the same due to deterioration. We kept the same specs on width.

[Gmagno]

4 minutes ago, JMortensen said:

Here's a crappy drawing on bending the bar. Just lay it over the base and push on the bend. Keep measuring eyelet to eyelet. Bend one side until they move 1" apart, then flip and do the same on the other side. 10 minutes max.
 

 

Thanks for the diagram, thought about this.

[silverado22c]

I've done many alignments, mostly on Land Rovers and some other vehicles.  The amount of movement is minimal to get a big degree change for camber, not like you would be adjusting the lower control arms out an inch or more.  You could probably get a few degrees at about 1/2" or under.  Even race cars are not really going over 5*, you'll probably end up setting it up at 2 to maybe 3 degrees, 4 at most if you can really drive.