bradyzq Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 Couple of things to consider regarding injector clocking: Do your injectors spray at an angle, or straight? It at an angle, you'll have to aim them so they don't spray onto a port wall. And the connectors will point where they point. No choice. Will you be able to plug and unplug the injector connectors with them facing down? It's not a good idea to be turning them around and stressing the O-rings whenever you need to unplug an injector. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradyzq Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 Also, if there's room, swap the injectors and crank sensor wires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted October 2, 2019 Author Share Posted October 2, 2019 (edited) 8 minutes ago, bradyzq said: Also, if there's room, swap the injectors and crank sensor wires. These injectors can be pointed any direction. I will leave enough pig tail for each to plug and unplug easily. Shouldn't be an issue. I am copying the datsun spirit wiring and injector wiring setup. I bought the kit from them. Swap wires? No room to change any of the wiring without a ton of effort. It's all shielded and should be perfectly fine though. I am using a hall effect home sensor on the cam. Not enough wiring length for the crank sensor wiring to be on the injector side. Edited October 2, 2019 by DuffyMahoney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tioga Posted October 3, 2019 Share Posted October 3, 2019 That’s how my injector/cam/crank/temp harness is run. Really disappears if you put air filters on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tioga Posted October 3, 2019 Share Posted October 3, 2019 Here is the harness run there. Just did a global idle stop with one of your SK levers. Fit nicely in the mangoletsi cable mount location. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tioga Posted October 3, 2019 Share Posted October 3, 2019 I wish they had a one piece fuel rail in this same style. Since jenvey knows the spacing they could make one. The custom tubular rails they offer have a much clunkier mounting setup. When you cut you connecting tubes make sure you put a nice chamfer on them. They like to catch the o-rings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted October 3, 2019 Author Share Posted October 3, 2019 I actually don’t like the look of one piece fuel rails. All triple intakes are different. So they could make one for their own intake. But not all without a lot of effort. My SK has the idle bump/ stop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tioga Posted October 3, 2019 Share Posted October 3, 2019 I thought the SK did. That is nice to have. That way you can easily balance the throttles on the linkage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tioga Posted October 3, 2019 Share Posted October 3, 2019 Is the spacing really different between the carbs on different intakes? I suspect it may be the same. They are taking each pair of ports and either bringing them together or apart to DCOE spacing. They do this symmetrically so the end result would be the same. I have a air filter base plate stuffed away somewhere. One day I will pull it out and check a few intakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted October 3, 2019 Author Share Posted October 3, 2019 1 hour ago, tioga said: Is the spacing really different between the carbs on different intakes? I suspect it may be the same. They are taking each pair of ports and either bringing them together or apart to DCOE spacing. They do this symmetrically so the end result would be the same. I have a air filter base plate stuffed away somewhere. One day I will pull it out and check a few intakes. I have owned 4 triple intakes. All are slightly different lengths, spacing etc... the dcoe pattern spacing is the same. But spacing from carb to carb would be different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tioga Posted October 3, 2019 Share Posted October 3, 2019 (edited) I understand how they could be but being different but that would mean a asymmetrical runner length. Here is a very old Australian intake against a old TWM and they are exactly the same. I measured my mangoletsi and it is the same too. Edited October 3, 2019 by tioga Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted October 3, 2019 Author Share Posted October 3, 2019 Those look to be very similar intakes. I would guess most intakes were copies of designs. So similar runner length and spacing. Maybe I am wrong. Who knows, point being I dislike the look of fuel rails:) I was going to cover my tubes between ITB in some sort of cloth to mimic fuel hose, but decided against it when i didn't have any on hand. I have owned a Harada, FET, SK and TWM. I love my SK, to me it'just old school cool with the linkage. Plus the casting is light years nicer then the harada. Which I couldn't live with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tioga Posted October 3, 2019 Share Posted October 3, 2019 I too am a collector of old Datsun stuff and have several different triple intakes now. I am installing a harada for a customer as we speak. I do not have a SK and was about to buy one before the British pound too a huge swing down at the beginning of Brexit. When that happened I ordered a Mangoletsi and it is the nicest I have see so far. The port match template is very well done. I will say the very old TWM in that pic has a great casting. There are other things about it I don’t like but casting quality is great and very short. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted October 3, 2019 Author Share Posted October 3, 2019 The Mangoletsi intake is very well thought out and made. It was on the top of my list. SK Mangoletsi Jenvy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tioga Posted October 3, 2019 Share Posted October 3, 2019 They are not similar at all. Very different lengths, different method of cross shaft, the lower one is a Australian Redline 12-3126 and has a drilling that connects the ports of cylinder 5 & 6 for vacuum signal. It could also be drilled all the way through and bridge all 6 ports. The one I have is from 1974 but is still made today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tioga Posted October 3, 2019 Share Posted October 3, 2019 I am thinking of powder coating it to match the throttles. What do you think? I thing it would look like a complete package. I just sent 4 valve covers and thermostat housings to be done as well as my coil bracket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted October 3, 2019 Author Share Posted October 3, 2019 That was also an option, but your tape lines would have to be perfect. Honestly I wish the throttle bodies were raw aluminum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tioga Posted October 3, 2019 Share Posted October 3, 2019 There is a version that is raw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuffyMahoney Posted October 3, 2019 Author Share Posted October 3, 2019 It’s shorter. Which I didn’t want. I actually called Jenvy and asked for raw in the standard size. They said no Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tioga Posted October 3, 2019 Share Posted October 3, 2019 The powder coater I am using had a very well done l6 turbo valve cover done that had the box and turbo raw. He said he wiped the powder off prior to baking. Looked great. He is doing a jdm NISSAN valve cover for me that way. We’ll see how it looks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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