Jump to content
HybridZ
Sign in to follow this  
manninen

240Z diesel

Recommended Posts

s-l1600.jpg

Went to local scrap yard to check those booster. yeah all looked just too big.

 

Mitsubishi colt system looks ok and they are cheap. same 22.2mm master but i´ll bet boost factor is much more than stock 240z booster has.

 

s-l1600.jpg

Some boosters has boost factor indicated, this bmw one has 4.5 factor. scrap yard renault one had 5.5. E61 bmw had 7. put that on Z you hit your nose on windscreen every time you brake.

Edited by manninen

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A1.3172.jpg

Today i received citroen 2cv seat belts, MOT engineers gave quite free hands how to install them. "just use common sense"

When im starting to build rear strut thingy im hooking seat belts to rear struts.

only thing with these belts is that belt stopper has cable, with recaro seats original type thin belt stopper would be better.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Today i finished strut tops for rear, they can hold new safety belts.

i think im testing if those bars help any just cutting few pipes to lenght crushing ends and drilling holes, then lift rear wheel up and try to take bolt of, if it can be taken away easily im not gonna put any more dead weight.

 

Received cheap F30 bmw brake booster, it´s a fit. 23.8mm master and 5.5 boost factor.

i hope i can still fit my cruise control box, it´s a bit crowded on booster area

Edited by manninen

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 11/27/2019 at 10:10 PM, calZ said:

1997 Toyota Tacoma booster and master bolt in and the master is 1" if you're simply looking for a bigger master. 

Is that tacoma booster really that small, 225mm outer diameter is max to with 240z.

still have to drill new holes cause 240z ain´t symmetric bolt pattern

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 minutes ago, manninen said:

Is that tacoma booster really that small, 225mm outer diameter is max to with 240z.

still have to drill new holes cause 240z ain´t symmetric bolt pattern

RockAuto has it listed at 8.75", or 222.25mm. The bolt pattern is the exact same on the Toyota booster as the 240Z booster. There's some discussion about it and then bawfuls installed one in this thread:

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

on bawfuls pictures on second page that booster installed there is more distance to throttle link than my car on stock booster. so something aint right.

 

he talks about -77 car?

 

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/Datsun-Z-Index/Brake/Master-Vac-Hose

according to this i have 6" booster, from -75 its 7.5" or 9" for 2+2 seater.

 

that F30 booster is listed 8" and outer measured is 22.28cm

 

Edited by manninen

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I purchased a Tacoma 8-3/4” booster and master cylinder the other day. It just arrived. It’s not even close to fitting on my early 240z. If I were to drill out the bolt pattern (Early is different prior to 8/71) it still hits both the clutch master and the throttle linkage bracket.  Take some good measurements before you go that way I’d say. 

 

There isnt many options, I’m about to

order up a universal 8” unit and master cylinder (corvette style) from Speedway motors. They are reasonably priced, and there will always be GM/Corvette parts available.  They also offer a 7”, as 8” is going to be very very very close and may need some clearancing in both the throttle linkage bracket and the clutch master.

Edited by HuD 91gt

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

dkMfRjC.jpg?1

everything seems to fit. brake plumbing and glow plug relay left here.

abs unit is fixed install without rubber mounting, must be really loud when active. I think its alloy master cylinder which needs flexible hoses, not gonna start to source those, thats why fixed.

Edited by manninen

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

p7g0Bvo.jpg

I have to come back to this. So i bolted supportbar to firewall, theres four bolts and blue ones were good to drill but those yellow marked ones i noticed lots of flexing when drilling.

Im glad i did not went commercial bars, well, they wont fit anyway

Edited by manninen

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

kZTjggk.jpg?1

NeBA0vZ.jpg?2

Everything hooked up on engine bay. I waited first start and brake pedal feel so much!! it sure does feel a lot different.

I might have to re-route incoming oil to turbo, its just under support bar which goes to firewall, i have to check hows the motormount flex.

Next step is lift car to stands and start working with abs rings

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

1S8q7Bu.jpg?1

Getting rid of this too. As you can see all hoses are routed from same spot, hoses rollercoast and  air lock like toilet.

gonna block 10mm and 14mm and route that 17mm from original way. Only worry is not to fuel up to the cap anymore.

That 6mm what is used to suck gas vapor out is used for fuel return, it spits fuel to the  expansion tank and makes annoying sound, gonna route that to fuel return line.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

AAjKK5Y.jpg?1

On front suspension there is thicker shim which allow pretty much max caster what can be added to stock parts. Changed PU bushings to stock rubber ones. let´s hope that my front wheels can still turn, oversize tyres goes so close to front valance and extra caster doesn´t help.

I got 2+2 sway bars, both are 20mm. My stock 18mm front bar has so worn bushing that 20mm fits fine. That sway bar mounting area is so soft i have to do something, well, i have figured out it allready...

tank job is done, im glad that 17mm 180deg hose were still there and good condition.

Edited by manninen

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

EBPSf1j.jpg?1

What do you guys say, alloy plate bonded to swaybar mounts.

Maybe with sikabond t2, bmw body adhesive k5 or something similar.

i need some extra shims to sway bar anyway, alternator fan touches sway bar without shims... oddly much space like picture shows, i have to check motormounts...

or can it be that 20mm swaybar is different shape to 18mm... odd...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...