2.9 Stroker build....TORQUE MONSTER

[A to Z]

Time for an update.  The short block is still at the machinists,:(  and I got the chance to buy an E31 head that is ported, with L28 intake valves, Electramotive L4 cam, springs all the good stuff, 500-1000 miles on it.  Well, the head arrived and I took some time today to clean it all up.  Using a brass wire wheel attachment in the drill I cleaned the whole thing, and then CC'd a chamber.  The head was shaved, and the machinist left .060 stamped in the corner....it's a lot huh?  It cc'd at 37.5cc and stock would be 42.4, so 5 cc less.  I used some brake cleaner and a toothbrush and I got it all clean and ready to go.  In the pics to follow you can see how clean the valley around the valves, look how clean I got it.  Here are the cam specs.  I found these on here, from May 26, 2006, member: Phred

 

Electramotive L4-02; Y84N; 7151. Ground by Ron Iskanderian at Isky cams a LONG time ago.

 

Intake Lift .562                                                  Exhaust Lift .552

I.O. 22 btdc Duration 247 Degrees                  E.O. 46 bbdc Duration 246 Degrees

I.C. 45 abdc Intake lobe center 101.5              E.C. 20 atdc  Exaust lobe center 103

 

This is at a .050 Valve Lift

Lash (cold) .008 intake, .010 exhasut

Edited February 26, 2023 by A to Z

[A to Z]

03-05-2023 UPDATE:

Initially I had concerns that my stock cam would be too small....and that as a consequence the Pressures in the cylinder would be too high......

 

Well this cam I got with my head....it's actually a RACE cam.....to get it to work, I would have to carve up my pistons' valve reliefs a ton deeper and STILL have to put a thicker head gasket on just to get the valves at max lift to clear......So I went online and figured out the Static Compression, and Dynamic Compression, which is the real world compression the engine has with the cam opening and closing acording to its degrees.  So when I put all my stuff in the calculator, the stock cam turned out to be fine (WOW).....so I am going to install it in my ported head with the big intake valves, and then I can use the adjustable cam sprocket I have to fine tune it. So at any rate, today I went out to the garage and got some things done.......I took the cam towers off the head, removed the shims, 3 under each tower, which is .060 making up for the milling of the head at .060.  Using some assembly lube I put it all back together, turned all the lash adjusters down, put the Kameari adjustable sprocket on and with a pipe wrench tuned the cam over to get some rough measurements.  It is these measurements that I have been fighting with, doing the math, etc., and that is when I ran the numbers with my existing "A" cam......Dynamic cylinder pressure of 183 which is good.  At sea level it would be 219, but because I am at 6400 feet elevation it is only 183.  Dynamic compression is 10.03 to 1.......still quite a drop from the static compression ratio of 11.54.....so no problem with the pump gas and I should be able to run full timing.

  After this I cleaned up my intake and carbs, and then the exhuast manifold....and then just went ahead and gave it another coat of hi heat paint..  The reminaing bolts that were dirty I went ahead and wire wheeled them up, then decided to check the mail and go in.  Also have my Loctite 640 for keeping my redi-sleeve on the rear seal journal.  Yes, my Electramotive L4-02 cam with 500-1000 miles on it is for sale.  A little pic heavy, but as I have said, it is a recording of the work performed.  Enjoy. 

[A to Z]

Video.  CLick below:

 

Facebook

[A to Z]

Oh, By the way, I went ahead and ordered a Kameari Dual Idler cam chain adjsuter.  JDM-PARTS has a few in stock, I chose the polished one. 

 

Edited March 6, 2023 by A to Z

[DuffyMahoney]

I can't remember why, but people don't like that dual idler.  It has come up a few times. 

[AydinZ71]

It makes a loud whining noise, kind of like a supercharger. It can be annoying, especially for a street car (which most people buy it for). I have spoken to the designer at Kameari (Mori Kame) and he has not heard of any performance issues. It really serves two purposes:

 

1) Minor reduction is friction/resistance from the OEM type tensioner. The twin idler uses needle bearings. I mean, squeeezing a few drops of parasitic loss out of a race engine with listed restrictions (class requiring an L-series). 

2) Main purpose is to eliminate chain slack on heavily decked heads and alleviate the need for super thick lash pads and thick tower shims. Thick lash pads add unnecessary weight to the moving parts of the head. 

 

This part is for racing applications. He sells an adjustable OEM style tensioner for street cars. 

 

I bought this for my 3.1L race motor, since I am running 11.5:1 and my N42 had quite a bit removed. Just waiting on Mr. Yoes to finish the head before final assembly. Block is ready and waiting at Mountune (here in southern california). 

 

[HS30-H]

On 3/9/2023 at 4:56 PM, DuffyMahoney said:

I can't remember why, but people don't like that dual idler.  It has come up a few times. 

 

Usually because they don't know what it was designed to do. The device has been on the market for more than twenty years and they have sold thousands of them. There are plenty of satisfied users out there. I supplied and fitted one on an engine that went on to win a national championship series more than ten years ago.

 

On 3/9/2023 at 5:08 PM, AydinZ71 said:

I have spoken to the designer at Kameari (Mori Kame) and he has not heard of any performance issues.

 

Mori san's given name is Shigeo. The 'Kameari' in the name of his company 'Kameari Engine Works' comes from their original location, which was in the Kameari district of Katsushika City in the metropolitan Tokyo area. They moved out to Yashio City in Saitama prefecture many years ago but kept the company name.

 

 

The KEW Twin Idler has been discussed many, many times before here on HybridZ and elsewhere. You seem to have missed the main issue it was designed to address, which is variation in the relationship between the crankshaft and the camshaft in extremis, for example in rapid throttle-off where the camshaft could 'overtake' the crank and cause enough chain whip to allow valve/piston contact.   

[A to Z]

3-24-2023 UPDATE: Today was the day to pick up all my stuff at the machinist. I took a couple photos at the shop then brought it home and got it back on the engine stand. I then went ahead and tapped the new pilot bearing in, and installed my Redi-Sleeve with Loctite 640. I then removed the excess with some diagonal pliers and the carefully went over the edges with a hammer....light taps.....then I installed the rear seal. USE A FACTORY SEAL. It is really nice quality and pre lubed. Still having some time, I masked off the block and painted it with "Old Ford Blue" duplicolor engine paint. Then after I removed the masking tape I painted over the core plugs and engine ID plate with duplicolor clear engine paint. Pics heavy, but here are some.

[A to Z]

03-25-2023 UPDATE. Cylinder head day. It took all day.....really gave me grief.:( BUT....I got it all done. I started by installing my new valves and then using some lapping compound and a lapping tool, and l got all the valves and the seats "used to each other". I then removed the valves in the same order, and then began the process of cleaning the whole head up.......this was a chore.....old toothbrush, a shop cloth and several cans of brake cleaner, but it eventually came clean. I then installed the cam towers and cam, and began putting both inner and out valvesprings on with new hardware. I used the spring compressor tool from Z car depot. At 99 bucks it wasn't cheap, but it worked! Not having a bench or a vice, I had to set the head on the ground. I had to use one foot to hold the head steady, and then use the tool to compress the springs, and move the tool around as it was compressed so I could push the keepers in. The key was to put the keepers into the retainer, then put my figner over them as I compressed the springs, and push with my finger, as I was moving the tool and pushing on it to compress as far aas possible, and then it worked. When you watch the video it looks easy.....and half of them went easy, but the other half......it was as if it was telling me it didn't want to do it or something, but I persevered. I then installed the rockers, but took the time to swap out a few rocker studs with the ones from my original head so I had the best ones in the head I am using. As I was installing the stuff, I was spraying it off with brake cleaner. Then once all assembled, I sprayed out the valley again really good. Lastly, I taped off everything, and then wiped off the outside with a wet wipe, then gave it a coat or two of my Duplicolor Clear Engine Paint. When I cleaned the head exterior with a wire brush a week or so ago, it gave it a nice shine, and I wanted to keep that. The clear will hopefully do that. So tomorrow, I will strip off the tape and wrap the head up in a garbage bag and go for it on the block. time to get this thing rolling! Pics

[A to Z]

03-27-2023 UPDATE. Well, I got my Engine parts back from J&S Polishing today.

[A to Z]

03-31-2023 UPDATE; Engine Assembly. Today I had a 13 hour marathon to get the engine together. I ran out of some parts I thought I had, so I ordered them, but it is almost complwetely together. Ran out of head bolts (the short ones) , and can't find my engine oil pickup, so I had to buy another one on eBay, and my rear main, the side seals that you push down in on the sides to get a tight seal. Some places sell just the seals, others sell the seals and the metal strips that go beside them in there. I don't know if you need the metal strips or not, so I went ahead and got the metal strips along with the side seals. I had put RTV selalant in the grooves a bit and along the cap bottom edge like the manual says....so when I put these strips in there, the RTV will already be hard. I had some issues.....just part of the game I suppose.. Pic heavy, enjoy.

[madkaw]

You’ll have to pull that rear main and get all that RTV off of there . Nissan makes all in one seals that don’t require the metal strips . Read carefully how to put the metal strips in if that’s what you are using .

I’d ditch that water pump . Get one with a cast impeller . 

[A to Z]

Ok, the manual says to put RTV in there....you are saying not to?

 

I would think the Water pump should be sufficient.  It's a factory pump.  This is a street engine.

 

Thanks.

 

[A to Z]

My custom ordered BSPEED valvecover is now enroute from New Zealand to USA. I designed it with the owner. One off piece. Pricy!

[A to Z]

04-05-2023 UPDATE:  I went ahead and put a couple Gloss clear coats on the oil pan to help keep it clean, and since we have a cold snap outside right now, I took all my intake parts inside and put them together.  Ready to go!

[madkaw]

On 4/3/2023 at 12:30 AM, A to Z said:

Ok, the manual says to put RTV in there....you are saying not to?

 

I would think the Water pump should be sufficient.  It's a factory pump.  This is a street engine.

 

Thanks.

 

I believe the RTV was meant to applied at the same time as you install the seal so it dries around the seal . 
It’s not a factory pump . A factory pump should have a cast impeller that is much more efficient moving the water .

[Brad-ManQ45]

10 hours ago, madkaw said:

I believe the RTV was meant to applied at the same time as you install the seal so it dries around the seal . 
It’s not a factory pump . A factory pump should have a cast impeller that is much more efficient moving the water .

And will last longer - they don't erode like the non-cast impellers.

[A to Z]

Ok, understand, and thanks.

 

[A to Z]

04-08-2023 UPDATE:  Engine complete.  Ready to go in.  Took a long time, had to go back and redo some things until I felt it was "right".  BHD single groove harmonic balancer/pulley went right on.  The Apex rear main seal is so much thicker and better constructed than the Nissan one, I had to swap them out real quick.  AZC oil pan holes lined right up, no issues. A long day.  See pics

[clarkspeed]

Sorry I have not been following. I would have recommended a few minor changes. But it looks spectacular.