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2.9 Stroker build....TORQUE MONSTER


A to Z

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Time for an update.  The short block is still at the machinists,:(  and I got the chance to buy an E31 head that is ported, with L28 intake valves, Electramotive L4 cam, springs all the good stuff, 500-1000 miles on it.  Well, the head arrived and I took some time today to clean it all up.  Using a brass wire wheel attachment in the drill I cleaned the whole thing, and then CC'd a chamber.  The head was shaved, and the machinist left .060 stamped in the corner....it's a lot huh?  It cc'd at 37.5cc and stock would be 42.4, so 5 cc less.  I used some brake cleaner and a toothbrush and I got it all clean and ready to go.  In the pics to follow you can see how clean the valley around the valves, look how clean I got it.  Here are the cam specs.  I found these on here, from May 26, 2006, member: Phred

 

Electramotive L4-02; Y84N; 7151. Ground by Ron Iskanderian at Isky cams a LONG time ago.

 

Intake Lift .562                                                  Exhaust Lift .552

I.O. 22 btdc Duration 247 Degrees                  E.O. 46 bbdc Duration 246 Degrees

I.C. 45 abdc Intake lobe center 101.5              E.C. 20 atdc  Exaust lobe center 103

 

This is at a .050 Valve Lift

Lash (cold) .008 intake, .010 exhasut

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Z car camshaft.jpg

Edited by A to Z
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  • 2 weeks later...

03-05-2023 UPDATE:

Initially I had concerns that my stock cam would be too small....and that as a consequence the Pressures in the cylinder would be too high......

 

Well this cam I got with my head....it's actually a RACE cam.....to get it to work, I would have to carve up my pistons' valve reliefs a ton deeper and STILL have to put a thicker head gasket on just to get the valves at max lift to clear......So I went online and figured out the Static Compression, and Dynamic Compression, which is the real world compression the engine has with the cam opening and closing acording to its degrees.  So when I put all my stuff in the calculator, the stock cam turned out to be fine (WOW).....so I am going to install it in my ported head with the big intake valves, and then I can use the adjustable cam sprocket I have to fine tune it. So at any rate, today I went out to the garage and got some things done.......I took the cam towers off the head, removed the shims, 3 under each tower, which is .060 making up for the milling of the head at .060.  Using some assembly lube I put it all back together, turned all the lash adjusters down, put the Kameari adjustable sprocket on and with a pipe wrench tuned the cam over to get some rough measurements.  It is these measurements that I have been fighting with, doing the math, etc., and that is when I ran the numbers with my existing "A" cam......Dynamic cylinder pressure of 183 which is good.  At sea level it would be 219, but because I am at 6400 feet elevation it is only 183.  Dynamic compression is 10.03 to 1.......still quite a drop from the static compression ratio of 11.54.....so no problem with the pump gas and I should be able to run full timing.

  After this I cleaned up my intake and carbs, and then the exhuast manifold....and then just went ahead and gave it another coat of hi heat paint..  The reminaing bolts that were dirty I went ahead and wire wheeled them up, then decided to check the mail and go in.  Also have my Loctite 640 for keeping my redi-sleeve on the rear seal journal.  Yes, my Electramotive L4-02 cam with 500-1000 miles on it is for sale.  A little pic heavy, but as I have said, it is a recording of the work performed.  Enjoy. :)

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It makes a loud whining noise, kind of like a supercharger. It can be annoying, especially for a street car (which most people buy it for). I have spoken to the designer at Kameari (Mori Kame) and he has not heard of any performance issues. It really serves two purposes:

 

1) Minor reduction is friction/resistance from the OEM type tensioner. The twin idler uses needle bearings. I mean, squeeezing a few drops of parasitic loss out of a race engine with listed restrictions (class requiring an L-series). 

2) Main purpose is to eliminate chain slack on heavily decked heads and alleviate the need for super thick lash pads and thick tower shims. Thick lash pads add unnecessary weight to the moving parts of the head. 

 

This part is for racing applications. He sells an adjustable OEM style tensioner for street cars. 

 

I bought this for my 3.1L race motor, since I am running 11.5:1 and my N42 had quite a bit removed. Just waiting on Mr. Yoes to finish the head before final assembly. Block is ready and waiting at Mountune (here in southern california). 

 

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On 3/9/2023 at 4:56 PM, DuffyMahoney said:

I can't remember why, but people don't like that dual idler.  It has come up a few times. 

 

Usually because they don't know what it was designed to do. The device has been on the market for more than twenty years and they have sold thousands of them. There are plenty of satisfied users out there. I supplied and fitted one on an engine that went on to win a national championship series more than ten years ago.

 

On 3/9/2023 at 5:08 PM, AydinZ71 said:

I have spoken to the designer at Kameari (Mori Kame) and he has not heard of any performance issues.

 

Mori san's given name is Shigeo. The 'Kameari' in the name of his company 'Kameari Engine Works' comes from their original location, which was in the Kameari district of Katsushika City in the metropolitan Tokyo area. They moved out to Yashio City in Saitama prefecture many years ago but kept the company name.

 

 

The KEW Twin Idler has been discussed many, many times before here on HybridZ and elsewhere. You seem to have missed the main issue it was designed to address, which is variation in the relationship between the crankshaft and the camshaft in extremis, for example in rapid throttle-off where the camshaft could 'overtake' the crank and cause enough chain whip to allow valve/piston contact.   

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