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ScottieGNZ, Don't be AFRAID (PICS)!


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Absolutely beautiful....I will probably feel the ground shake and I live at 6,500feet above sea level in Colorado!

 

Is your wastegate dump connected to your downpipe or venting to atmosphere in the engine bay?

 

Congrats!

 

Yasin

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wow looks good. what rearend are you running james?

 

hope my hooptie holds up to clutch launches. after i get mine in the 10s on stock turbos ... going for the nines on some bigger twins :rockon:

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I am running the VLSD from an 88SS Turbo.

Both wastegate dumps go back into the DP as seen below. I will be driving the car to gainseville in 2 weeks for the import world nationals. I may make a pass while I am there if the car has been retuned with the nitrous for this new setup.

BTW, just giving you hell Scottie. I don't stand a chance without some slicks.

frontwg2.jpg

rearwg2.jpg

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Alright James,

I've been meaning to ask since you started this "second" itteration of the twin turbo.

You obviously had a powerful setup previously What did you find lacking in the other seup? What I see is a slightly changed setup, i.e. the new intake, the different exhaust manifolds, and what I am sure is different turbo's.

Were there any accompaning changes to the head or block at the same time? I assume you are still running some version of the auto you had, with I also assume a new torque converter...

Just curious. It sure looks great, and I'm sure is an excercise in engineering, but to what hoped gain?

-Bob

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What did you find lacking in the other seup? What I see is a slightly changed setup, i.e. the new intake, the different exhaust manifolds, and what I am sure is different turbo's. Were there any accompaning changes to the head or block at the same time? I assume you are still running some version of the auto you had, with I also assume a new torque converter...-Bob

 

Wow, so many questions. First, the turbo's are the same as before 2x Mitsubishi 16G's (7cm). The tranny is still the same Jatco 4N71B with the same torque converter as before. There have been no changes to the block or head since the old setup. So, the only thing that has changed are the manifolds (intake & exhaust).

As you may know, the old exhaust manifold cracked and was made from 304SS. Although it can be repaired, I opted to redo the manifold out of 321SS and utilize a header design that would minimize the risk of cracking. To do this I needed to place bends in each of the tubes before it reached the turbo. This would help to absorb the thermal expansion which is also reduced by using the better 321SS material. I also used the fancy merge collectors which are a critical area which is prone to cracking. Because of the longtube design(24"-26" primaries) I could no longer use my custom intake. That is what necessitated the construction of the new intake. The new intake has slightly longer runners than before and full radius velocity stacks. See comparison pic below. I am about to graduate this summer so with a job will come better mods. Most likely the bottom end will be rebuilt with forged rods instead of raceprepped 240Z rods and the head will be swapped for an E88 or N42 unit and heavily ported. I want to get in the 275cfm range. I will also swap to some bigger 20G turbo's and swap to the 200R4 GN tranny. I want to get this car into the 9's before starting on my next project...AWD RB26 powered 240Z.

BTW, the old setup made about 475@wheels and this new setup should produce an honest 525-550hp@wheels and see some 135-137mph trap speeds.

OLD

intake4.jpg

NEW

ttintake.jpg

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before starting on my next project...AWD RB26 powered 240Z

I assume you did follow my posts when I looked into transplanting the AWD setup into my car with the RB26....

If you are going for the strictly drag race setup, you can go with the HKS manaual adjustment for the AWD clutches. If you are trying any more than that, good luck to you as it is a very complicated system,(and heavy...).

-Bob

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I made all that you see from downpipes, IC piping, intake, 321SS Header, yada yada yada.

 

Without starting the whole debate over, I feel the smaller combustion chamber is better for several reasons and will outflow a P90 anyday of the week, $ for $.

 

BobH, I did not see your post, but have been looking into this for several years loosely. It was my impression that the transfer case(FWD) was activated by pumping fluid to it. Skylines can turn off the FWD portion with some electronics...varying the flow of the pump. As far as the swap, the pan will 1st have to be sectioned to move the front diff forward aligning it with the front wheels. Next a custom engine mount will need to be fabbed. I am probably going to semi-graph the front GTR subrame into the Z. Things like this no longer scare me as I have been working in a machine shop for 5 years now and have a good idea of how to get things done....custom fab that is. For a small fee, $1, I will share any and all info on this swap when I start! :-D Besides, I have smart friends like TimZ to help when I get stuck! :lol:

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you will also have to knotch the z frame to clear the axles. from the swap ive seen on paper the axles are almost perfectly aligned once the stock diff/ oil pan clears the front frame member.

 

If i were to do i would also use most of the gtr front frame member. i would think sectioning the gtr front framemember making it narrower and even using the stock gtr struts would be the way to go. there is enough length in the tie rods you could just shorten the rods and use the gtr rack with the power sterring.

 

here is my idea for the rear. install the rear diff like a r230 mod make custom shorter gtr axles and do a mod kinda like i did with my z31 rear where you machine the s30 struts to except bearings for the gtr axles and use the hubs and brakes and everything ;> but this is just me dreamin :D

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Yes and no.

The clutches that send power to the front diff are "actuated" by fluid pressure.

The cliff notes answer for what is required to keep the ATTESSA system is thus:

There are several accelerometers throughout the GT-R. They feed into and take inputs from a few of the computers throughout the car.

They then feed signals to the ATTESSA pump and valves which control how much torque is transmitted to the front driveshaft.

In otherwords, you need to transplant all the accelerometers, computers and pumps to make it work. It adds more weight, and most certainly more complexity.

Take a close look at the AWD transplants, all the ones I have seen have the HKS or other similar manual adjustment for the clutches. I.E. they manually set the amount of torque transmitted and it doesn't change till they re-set it. It is usually a handle attached to a pump that manually changes the hydraulic preload on the clutches.

There is no need to move the front diff, as it is already toward the front of the motor and in the correct place in relation to the Z engine bay.

Before you even think of the AWD transfer, look very closely into how you will get the AWD to actually work. The fabrication/grafting isn't all that hard.

You said: " with some electronics"

Granted that was in relation to turning off the FWD portion, but the ATTESSA system most certainly has "some electronics" and don't forget that all the manual's and diagrams are in Japanese. Yes, there is a firm in Australia that will sell you a factory manual that is translated to english. However, noone has been able to tell me if the electronic diagrams are translated as well.....

-Bob

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Guest empracing

and you reackon my wireings a mess? hehehe nice set up mate i hope the gtr motors going into another z be a shame to pull that one apart

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