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what makes 280Z 500 pounds heavier than 240Z


Guest zrl

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I think early 75 is lightest for just this reason alone basically.

My 75 (11/ 74) has no kind of door bracing in it whatsoever.

Dont know how much mine weighs, but it does ride good.

 

I always thought the Ls1 was only marginally lighter than a cast sbc because the bottom end has so much beef down there, six bolt mains, huge everything and what not???

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My 77 280 turbo with half a tank of gas weighed in at 2780 with me in it as well (165 lbs). That was on the scales in Reynolds this past SEZS event. Crash bumpers and supports gone, no spare, no heater core, blower motor, a/c etc. I do have a heavy pair of Conquest/Starion seats though...

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I removed the crash beams in the doors of my '78 280Z; the car has a roll cage with X-bars, so gutting the doors to save weight felt reasonable. Grinding/cutting/chiseling the crash beams and the surrounding metal took considerable effort. When I was done, I took the pile of metal chips and shavings from both doors, put everything in a bag, and weighed the bag. Result (drumroll, please!) - 12 lbs. 12 lousy pounds, for all that work.

 

Two lessons here, I suppose: (1) removal of metal in "non critical" spots will indeed save weight, but (2) the weight savings is very minor. Real weight savings requires a combination of aggressive cutting - and the wisdom to know where to cut!

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Well I weighed my 1978 280z today... 2900lbs without the driver.

 

I do recall weighing my car years ago.. 2780... but that was quite a while ago. car was stripped down a bit (min interior, creature comforts, no stereo, etc..)

 

@2900lbs

Currently with:

260 bumper with flat bar mounts (like the 240). no rear bumper.

12 point roll cage. (chromemoly steel)

14 points of additional mild/coldrolled steel bracing... some with adjustable heim joints, some welded permanent.

Larger sway bars, larger lsd diff.

larger tires, rims.

larger brake rotors and calipers.

I/C and piping/mounting brackets

oil cooler and related hardware.

custom driveline mounts and bracing. 1/8 steel.

custom driveshaft.

Custom body panels/moulding.

Full stock interior. carpets and sound insulation (more deadener than stock)

mild stereo system with sound enclosure box on the decking.

all heater/dash controls/guages.

larger dia exhaust and ss muffler.

more wiring, aftermarket ign box.

ground effects/bellpan, air ducting, etc..

 

my car has actually gained weight, but the weight is better distributed..(engine sits much lower and WAY further back)

 

No feather weight that is for sure. I blame most of the weight on the bracing and roll cage...but then I need them...so I'll just live with it..at least I can say it is sub 3000lbs hehehehe

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My '78 weighs about 2620lb with 1/4 tank. I have an intercooled turbo L28, a T5, and a heavy 3" exhaust. I've stripped the A/C, the bumpers and supports, and lost the spare tire. I also run the factory ZXT wheels and fairly small tires - light where it counts, rotating and unsprung. otherwise I have all the stock stuff excepting ZX front calipers and Z31 front rotors.

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3200#

Do I win the prize for the Z lead sled?

 

A '71 with over 800# of motor and transmission.

200+ for the Vette rear

full frame and boxed sills

stock interior…no cage

extra insulation for the sound system

Full SS exhaust with headers, resonators and a pair of fat cans with resonated tips

Wire wheels added 60# over aluminium

 

It’s going on a diet this winter. I would like to shed at least 200lbs.

Cheers!

:::Glenn

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You should lose the sound insulation. If you can't hear traffic sounds around the car with the windows up, you make yourself a traffic hazard. Too loud a radio will do the same thing.

 

I'm talking about not being able to hear a police car or emergency vehicle approaching. You don't want to play chicken with a fire engine- pull aside and let them by. If you can't hear it coming, YOU might need emergency service.

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