seekerfkf Posted July 23, 2003 Share Posted July 23, 2003 I'm about to swap an r200 into a '73 240Z, and it has been recommended that I should replace the front and side seals. Can anyone advise what this procedure involves, or direct me to a resource? Thanks, Forrest F. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seekerfkf Posted July 24, 2003 Author Share Posted July 24, 2003 Jon, thanks for your advice; I'll take it. Now, as to the procedure for replacing the side seals only?? Thanks again. Forrest F. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 24, 2003 Share Posted July 24, 2003 Pull old seals with a screwdriver or a seal puller. Put a very thin layer of silicone on the outside of the new seals. Put a little grease on the inside of the seal, tap them in with a hammer and socket. Easy job. Jon Mortensen 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zcarnut Posted July 24, 2003 Share Posted July 24, 2003 Nissan does not use a crush sleeve to set the pinion bearing pre-load. A certain size shim is used. [When will this rumor end?] You can change the front seal without concern. It is a good idea to re-torque the pinion flange nut to it's present value. Since there is no crush sleeve, the final torque value is no more than 250 ft-lbs. Typically it's just under 200 ft-lbs. I use a inch by one inch steel bar about four feet long (which is drilled so it bolts to the input flange) to hold the input flange when your are loosening or tightening the front pinion nut. BTW, the front pinion nut is a lock nut and it is recommended that it not be re-used. The side seals are a little tricky as there is no lip in the R200 housing to prevent you from putting the seals in too far. They should be driven in just until they are flush with the edge of the hole. An excellent source of info on changing R200 seals (with the diff still in the car) is the factory service manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 24, 2003 Share Posted July 24, 2003 That is excellent news! I had a diff built ~6 years ago, and I specifically remember the bastards charged me for a crush sleeve. Later I learned more about diffs and built quite a few, but no Nissan diffs, while working for Randy's. Hence my comments on crush sleeves. If that is the case, forget the crush sleeve stuff and go for it! Very happy to know I was misinformed! Jon Mortensen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 24, 2003 Share Posted July 24, 2003 Oh, and I should apologize to seeker for the bad info Jon Mortensen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted July 24, 2003 Share Posted July 24, 2003 I can confirm the service manual, and what was said about the pinion seal. I replaced mine recently - I just retorqued the original nut (I'm cheap) to the factory spec, and the diff is working great. Time will tell I suppose, but I got away with it on my Toyota pickup pinion seal as well, and that was 70k miles ago, more than 3 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 24, 2003 Share Posted July 24, 2003 Toyota uses a crush sleeve in the 8 inch, V6, and T100/Tacoma diffs. A lot of guys replace with the solid spacer. Maybe yours was one of them. Regardless, like you said, looks like you got away with it. Jon Mortensen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted July 24, 2003 Share Posted July 24, 2003 Toyota uses a crush sleeve in the 8 inch' date=' V6, and T100/Tacoma diffs. A lot of guys replace with the solid spacer. Maybe yours was one of them. Regardless, like you said, looks like you got away with it. Jon Mortensen[/quote'] I don't know if I have any of those. My P/U is an '89 4x4 with a 22RE. It was the rear diff pinion seal that went out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 24, 2003 Share Posted July 24, 2003 Should be an 8 inch. Jon Mortensen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seekerfkf Posted July 26, 2003 Author Share Posted July 26, 2003 Thanks to everyone for your comments. Forrest F. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted November 17, 2003 Share Posted November 17, 2003 Resurrecting this old thread. I recently was sent PICS of a R200 pinion shaft with a crush sleeve. It was stated that the diff was a 75-78 R200. I don't know what to make of that. Maybe they used crush sleeves in the earlier models and not in the later ones? Anyways, it brings back the point I had originally tried to make about the crush sleeve crushing in drag cars, and the possibility of installing a solid spacer. This certainly would be a better setup for you V8 guys. Just thought everyone should know... Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted November 17, 2003 Share Posted November 17, 2003 OK, apparently that piece is a spacer, and not a crush sleeve as reported to me. Still trying to figure this out...it even kinda looks crushed on the ends... I may just have to buy that new ring and pinion and go through the setup myself to get it straight... Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted November 19, 2003 Share Posted November 19, 2003 OK, finally got this figured out. That is a spacer, not a crush sleeve. Pinion preload is set with a shim. Thanks again to Steve Golik who was patient with my long list of questions, and my second-guessing of his post which occurred because I was given incorrect information by an "expert". Sometimes it's hard to tell what to believe, especially when someone who is universally appreciated as an expert is wrong, as in this case. Experts don't know EVERYTHING, and it is the mark of a "good" expert to admit when they are incorrect, and an even better one when they say "I don't know the answer to that question". The expert in this case told me to stop asking him questions as soon as I challenged his "wisdom." Take that for what it is worth... Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted October 15, 2007 Share Posted October 15, 2007 RE: Replacing the side shaft and pinion oil seals After reading this thread I have the following questions for a 78 R200: 1. How do you pull the side shafts off to access the side shaft seal? 2. For the pinion seal is there really a crush sleeve or can I just remove the nut and pinion to access the pinion oil seal and then re-tighten the nut to specs? 3. Do I have to buy a new nut for the pinion? Is the nut staked on like the stub axle nut? Thanks Miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2126 Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 So Jon, looks like you backed out of that one pretty gracefully....just funnin with yah! Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 RE: Replacing the side shaft and pinion oil seals After reading this thread I have the following questions for a 78 R200: 1. How do you pull the side shafts off to access the side shaft seal? 2. For the pinion seal is there really a crush sleeve or can I just remove the nut and pinion to access the pinion oil seal and then re-tighten the nut to specs? 3. Do I have to buy a new nut for the pinion? Is the nut staked on like the stub axle nut? 1. Use a prybar to pop them out. 2. No crush sleeve. 3. You can reuse the nut, use red loctite on it. Tom, sometimes you just don't know who to trust. I'll say that Steve Golik has never sent me in the wrong direction. Kim Blough on the other hand... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 Jon Sounds easy. Thanks Miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted March 19, 2008 Share Posted March 19, 2008 I am now working on my R200 and need to remove the front pinion seal. I do not want to damage it as the seal is new. Can it just be popped off with a screw driver? If so, do I pry it from behind (the carrier side) or do I wedge the screwdriver between the seal and the housing? If not, can someone recommend a seal puller? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 19, 2008 Share Posted March 19, 2008 Pry from behind. Screwdriver worked for me. I think just about any hook type seal puller you would buy from the auto parts store would also do the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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