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Adjustable tension compression rods


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Hey guys,

I need to adjust my front caster, and the guys at the frame shop said that the easiest thing to do is get some adjustable tension compression rods. I couldn't find any discussion about adjustable caster in any of the archives, period. Does anyone know if there is anything out there?

 

Thanks,

-Forrest

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OR, you could buy a 5/8th 18 right hand DIE and cut your TC rod to the appropriate length (Buying your threaded tubing in say a size 8 inch length) and cut the threads on by hand. Then you could appropriate the clevis bracket and some lefthand MALE heim joints and some 5/8th bolts and nuts of the appropiate lenght and BINGO... Adjustable TC rods... Not that I would know ANYTHING about doing them mind you! :D

 

http://www.Stockcarproducts.com

 

They are you're huckleberry! :-D

Mike

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I did as Mike suggested, and cut off my T/C rods ~ 4" behind the attach point to the lower control arms. I then used a 5/8" R.H die to thread the portion that attaches to the control arms. Then add 4 heavy duty 5/8" rod ends(2 LH and 2 RH), and two clevises, and 4 locknuts(2 RH and 2LH).

 

All in all it took me 1 afternoon, and ~ $70.00. I ordered all the parts from http://www.afcoracing.com

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I want to throw out a comment/quetion about Dan's photo post of the adjustable arm in his picture. I'm assuming the swaybar link is attached to the small stub opposite the arm's TC attachment point. Has there been any documentation of problems with any twisting of this arm and subsequent bending of the TC-to-arm clevis due to a thick (stiff) sway bar. As I visualize the car in a hard turn, the sway bar is going to exert an up or down force on this link stub, which will attempt to twist the arm along it's axis. The only thing preventing such twisting is the clevis for the TC rod attached to the arm. It would seem to me that a much more ideal location for attaching the sway bar link would be directly on top of the arm instead of to the side of the arm, thus the swaybar would be exerting it's force on the axis centerline instead of to the side of it. This is what I liked about Mike's arms. The TC-to-arm connection was a two bolt set-up that seemed to provide a stable platform to resist twisting, plus the swaybar link was still located on the arm's axis (oem location). Comments?

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I agree with you BOZ, but I think it's worse than that. I think if you are under heavy braking there would be a tendency to twist the TC clevis bracket off the control arm as well, especially when braking hard on a rough road or track. I know there isn't a whole heck of a lot of movement in the TC rods, but there's got to be a pretty substantial force applied to the rod when braking and a vertical force from going over bumps simultaneously, especially on slicks. At least the stock unit relied on 2 bolts spreading the load over the top of the whole control arm, and had a bit of a damper in the TC and control arm bushings.

 

I much prefer the design I have, which is much the same as the now defunct ZFR design. Only difference is mine uses 3/4" rod end and turnbuckle.

 

All that said, I haven't heard anyone complaining of broken AZZC control arms. Yet.

 

Jon

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The common adjustable tension rod conversion where I live is to adapt some Ford Falcon strut suspension adjustable rods to fit. They have to be modified a bit at the suspension arm end then redrilled to bolt on but they are long enough, stiffer (heavier in section) and cheap from a wreckers.

 

Maybe in the US you have something similar you can adapt?

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Terry,

 

You dont have falcons. They used to be similar to the U.S. falcons back in the sixtys but the aussie one has been developed locally. It shares no common components with any U.S. cars except for the engine. They use a locally modified version of the 250 six ( twin cam head) and have just started putting in themodular V8.

 

Douglas

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