Jump to content
HybridZ

LS1 swap started


Recommended Posts

Mike - Thanks for the info on the AFR heads. Once I get everything else sorted out I'll look into them.

FWIW - My alternator is mounted low on the drivers side and is the original LS1 Alternator. AC compressor is a compact Japanese unit mounted high on the drivers side, where the PS pump was. Set-up uses original pulleys and original serpentine belt.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

mas280, no it is not on the road yet. I stopped working on the LS1 for a while to put on the Velo Rossa Kit and work out the rear suspension. Christmas was good to me though. I got Brembo rotors for the front, that was a Christmas miracle for sure, and all new bushings and the G-machine setup for the front. I have finished the LS1 wiring and now I need the driveshaft made. Everything else besides the body work is done, custom CV's clutch and brake linkage etc.

 

Good point Gary. you have to go all Vette if you go that way, unless you buy an aftermarket setup like the Vette but that uses the camaro crank pulley. Gary's crank pulley is very close to the steering rack. I am using P/S and I also have an underdrive pulley which is smaller. I have plenty of room there. Exhaust clearances are the tightest thing on mine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Maichor,

 

I was up at you web site and I have a question. I noticed you are using the frame rails to support most of the weight of the new LS1 engine. In the past I thought about doing this, but felt the rails were never designed for that type of engine stress. I can see them supporting the engine weight but a running engine's vibration and torque - I don't know. A typical install uses the front cross member to support the entire engine weight and generated stresses but with your design these stresses are going directly into the rails which are really not a typical frame.

 

Below is a picture of your setup and I was wondering if you could explain it a little further.

 

 

Thanks,

Danno74Z

 

album_pic.php?pic_id=2891

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like the new cross member design...looks big and brauny and seems like it would make for a clean install.

 

As for Danno's observation, well I am no Structural Engineer-so someone else would have to confirm/reject it as a proper way to mount the engine.

 

Still..looks good-hope it works out for ya and keep the pictures comming.

 

Kevin,

(Yea,Still an Inliner)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guy,

 

You are correct. The original OEM cross member is bolted to the frame rail. However, it is bolted at the bottom and the weight of the car rests on it. If you notice the original frame rails have no substantial weight on them. I'm not saying maichor's design won't work. I think his cross member design is awesome. I'm saying in my opinion the frame rails are not strong enough to handle "those" type of "new" stresses. This design may indeed work with a substantially beefed up frame rail.

 

Danno74Z

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What you see on the website is not exactly what the finished product looks like, but it is very close. Yes, it still attaches to the frame, but it is also welded all the way along the front edge to the stock cross member. I have also strengthened the frame rails all the way to the back of the car. I am really not too concerned about the frame rail fatigue, I think I have added enough support in the area to handle the weight. Nearly 50% of the weight will still be on the stock cross member because the new cross member and the old are now one piece and the new rear member is also supported on its own.

 

I guess time will tell, but in my opinion, I have done a lot of overkill on the strengthening of the unibody. I still have to add the roll bar, but I have subframe connectors, rocker panel support, tunnel support, frame rail support, strut tower support etc. I have added more than 100 lbs of steel to the car, but lost ~100lbs by losing the roof, fenders hood etc, and changing them to glass. Once I get it on the road I am very curious to find out actual weight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mainchor,

 

Thank you for the explanation and with the additions you made I'm sure it will be fine. I did not know the new front cross member was welded to the existing one - now I do! I like your design as I never been fond of the JTR arrangement. I know in your situation you had to design a new setup for the LS1 but even with my LT1 I might try something like this. You have a lot of control on how and where the engine sits in the engine compartment.

 

Danno74Z

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 years later...

For sure. But don't knock the poor suckers who had to hash it out by ourselves. Lonestar1 had the 1st LS1 conversion ever, as far as I know. Jeromio did it alone, then Phantom teamed up with JCI and they had a kit out in about a year. In the mean time, I had mine mounted and running and mas280 finished his. He has since done a few more swaps in Z's and RX7's and made some very fast cars.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...