QuickSilverAWD Posted September 23, 2006 Share Posted September 23, 2006 http://www.1speedway.com/Axles.htm Which set is needed?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted February 15, 2007 Share Posted February 15, 2007 tim240z, can u chime on this one please? thanks! need 2 things for my swap; axles & front mount. got everything else!! http://www.1speedway.com/Axles.htm Which set is needed?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 tim240z, can u chime on this one please? thanks! need 2 things for my swap; axles & front mount. got everything else!! Bump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted April 6, 2007 Share Posted April 6, 2007 Speedway engineering ( http://www.1speedway.com/main.htm ) now has them on the shelf. Their price is $175 per. Part numbers are:0090-046 (12.437") (driver's side) 0090-046 (12.937") (passenger side) I figure I would put this in the sticky thread. Should make it easier for anyone else looking for part numbers. Thanks Tim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wedge Posted May 21, 2007 Share Posted May 21, 2007 Funny thing is that i have a 1996 300ZX TT diff here and its 5 bolt output on the lsd not 6 ? can the same thing be done but with the 5 bolt axels , meaning 4 300zx axels ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrcheeze36 Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 Funny thing is that i have a 1996 300ZX TT diff here and its 5 bolt output on the lsd not 6 ? can the same thing be done but with the 5 bolt axels , meaning 4 300zx axels ? Your diff could be from an NA 300ZX. Those have short nose R200s with 5 bolt flanges (ebay pic below): http://i10.ebayimg.com/05/i/000/9e/d7/daec_1.JPG Here's a pic of the Z32TT R230 (speeder's pic below): http://rick.thebowersplace.com/pix/230Setup.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted May 23, 2007 Author Share Posted May 23, 2007 EvilC, thanks for covering for me..... As for the front mount, I made one that bolted to the holes in the tunnel that originally held the old safety strap for the R180. So basically 2 plates that bolt to the tunnel, then a cradle of tubing that bolts to the differential front ears.....simple really. I can find some photos if you need..... Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted October 15, 2007 Share Posted October 15, 2007 EvilC, thanks for covering for me.....As for the front mount, I made one that bolted to the holes in the tunnel that originally held the old safety strap for the R180. So basically 2 plates that bolt to the tunnel, then a cradle of tubing that bolts to the differential front ears.....simple really. I can find some photos if you need..... Tim Please do..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtySouthZ Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 Whats the best source for axles? Speedway? 12.437 ds &12.937ps? Will these lengths work w/ Ross's/ MM CF adp.? Any other source for the CF adpter? Is there an aftermarket R230 thats fully locked? maybe clutch type? not VLSD? how can i tell when my VLSD is worn out? Anyone have 4.08 or 4.11 ring and pinion from Z32TT i'm thinking, & want to sell? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z2NV Posted December 3, 2007 Share Posted December 3, 2007 I hate always being the one to ask the dumb questions; but, how are the machined travel stops supposed to be installed into the CV housings?! I have screwed around for about an hour trying to get ONE into the CV housing. I have it in a vise, with a clamp on the other side and a strip of 1/4" steel across to try to even out the pressure. The steel is bending but the 'cap' isn't going in. WTF? I must be doing something wrong here! Please help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbc3 Posted December 3, 2007 Share Posted December 3, 2007 They press in... and they are TIGHT. You might try putting the stop in the freezer and heating the CV. I struggled with mine also, and I have a press. Jody Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z2NV Posted December 3, 2007 Share Posted December 3, 2007 Thanks Jody! I guess that maybe I should take them to a machine shop. I don't have an Arbor Press [anymore], and unfortunately, I was following the directions [and got ahead of myself] and put the grease packet in already. Doh! Messy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z2NV Posted December 3, 2007 Share Posted December 3, 2007 Since I've got your attention, did you end up needing the 'stops' in both ends of EACH axle on your install, or just the inner CVs on each axle? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbc3 Posted December 4, 2007 Share Posted December 4, 2007 I just installed one stop per side. No problems (related to the stops). Jody Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z2NV Posted December 4, 2007 Share Posted December 4, 2007 So, I froze the end stops in the freezer overnight. Put the two 'housings' in the oven at 400 degrees for two hours; and, zip, zilch, nada. They ain't goin' in! Damn!! I called two machine shops in the area, and neither wanted to even look at my parts..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted December 4, 2007 Share Posted December 4, 2007 So, I froze the end stops in the freezer overnight. Put the two 'housings' in the oven at 400 degrees for two hours; and, zip, zilch, nada. They ain't goin' in! Damn!! I called two machine shops in the area, and neither wanted to even look at my parts..... I recently replaced one of my CV boots and found out that the CV housings are different sizes based on the model year donor vehicle you get them from. Could it be that you have the smaller housings and the end stops won't fit in them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z2NV Posted December 4, 2007 Share Posted December 4, 2007 It's definitely a possibility...? It has been so long since I pulled the Diff. & CVs, I'm not even sure what year they came from. I'm thinking '94 because I pulled six sets, and the latest was '95 [it had a smooth cover on the 'pumpkin'] and the earliest was '93. The kit for the conversion that came from MM didn't really specify... that I recall. I am calling machine shops in the area to see if any of them want to take this on....so far, 0 for 3 !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted December 4, 2007 Share Posted December 4, 2007 I found out through my boot install that there are basically three models of Q45 CV's 94 and under, 95-96, and 97 and up; and one of the differences is the outside diameter of the CV housings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z2NV Posted December 4, 2007 Share Posted December 4, 2007 So, to add insult-to-injury, I might have further screwed myself in that I had all of the CVs in a huge crate, and the half dozen or so diffs. on a shelf. As I sold sets off locally, I merely kept a 'set' for myself; and, never bothered to check the mating of the CV to the Output Flange of the Diff. My bolt pattern may not match up now if I miss-matched the CV with the diff...?! CRAP! OR, is it a subtle-enough difference that Nissan didn't change the actual bolt pattern, merely changed the casting of the CV housing...? Let's hope. I called Machine Shop number SIX, and he's willing to give it a try. I'm waiting for the CV housing to cool enough to handle, then I'll make the forty minute trek to let him have a go at it. Wish me luck, please :~) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted December 4, 2007 Share Posted December 4, 2007 The bolt pattern is the same. You will be fine. My stops are a little different than yours but this may work for you also. If a machine shop will not put you stops on a lathe and turn them down, you can use a bench or angle grinder and make them just small enough to go inside the stock end caps. The stock end caps will hold the grease in place and once the axels are bolted in place, the stops will work as they are supposed to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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