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Fuel Cell Q


EvilRufusKay

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I'm thinking more along the lines of something like this. This one is only 8 gal though.

 

EDIT: Tim for the cell you used...did you drop it into the spare wheel well like this one? Did you just set it in the back? I am going to check out your site to see if you have any type of write up on the install...I guess I will do some searching as well... 'sigh' :D

 

Round%20Cell.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

I THINK the round black object to the left of the filler is a sender in the ATL well cell pictured. In my experience (which is limited I'll admit), most fuel cells do not come with senders. Many of the "street" cells do though, like the one shown above, and the Summit one I have.... http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2D290215%2DSD

If you don't mind cutting and drilling into your new cell, there are several kits out there for senders too.

 

Jason

 

I'm thinking more along the lines of something like this. This one is only 8 gal though.

Round%20Cell.jpg

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I just recently installed a sender in my cell (ran out of gas for the umpteenth time). It was a very simple procedure using a tube type of sender (not a swing arm type). I cut a hole (about 1-3/4") with five 1/8" holes around the main hole for screws. It's kinda neat how they make these. It uses a magnet on a float that slides up and down the inside of the tube. The magnet affects a solid state PCB which runs the length of the tube, thus changing the impedence of the circuit.

 

The gauge then takes one 12vdc+, one ground wire, and a (third) wire going to the sender. The sender receives this wire from the gauge, and then uses a second wire to ground.

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I've only had the sender in the cell for a couple of weeks now and have not gone through a tank of gas yet. In testing it appeared to be very accurate, and the sender is matched to an AutoMeter fuel level gauge (Ford type that I previously bought). There are several resistance profiles the manufacturer (RCI) uses on these tube type of senders (Ford, Chevy, and Mopar) that may come close to the map that Datsun used on their gauge. I purchased the sender from Summit.

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Terry, Im having some wierd problems with my fuel delivery. Im running an Aluminum 10 Gallon cell with a 1/2 inch braided hose to the pump and out the pump into a PAXTON filer then 1/2 inch all the way to the front through a regulator and then into the carbs. Im running the Holley black. Well when I start it everything is fine and then about 5 minutes the pressure drops drops drops until its on ZERO. I cut off the car and can hear bubbling in the tank, the pump is almost silent etc... Afetr it sits for awhile its goes back to normal. I do have foam in the tank but the air line works fine and the gas comes out ok etc....What in the world could this problem be...i am ready to throw away the whole car....any suggestions?????

 

Terry

CorZette

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I've never been good at this kind of thing, but I take a stab at it. To me, it sounds like you've got no air (or perhaps a minuscule amount) coming into the tank (vent is plugged or constricted) to replace the fuel that is being drawn out, thus creating a low pressure in the tank, which would slowly work against your pump until it gets to the point that no fuel can be drawn out any longer. You shut off the pump, and the small amount of air venting into your tank finally allows the pressure inside to get back to normal and thus the pump starts pumping again after a short wait. Just a shot in the dark. I would guess the bubbling sound may be air coming back into your tank back through the fuel line. I'd check to see if this happens with the gas cap off (lots of venting then), or at least do this again and see if a vacuum is in the tank when the pressure starts dropping off or goes to zero. Man, this is a tough question.

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Terry, where is your regulator located? Do these things have diaphrams in them rthat are sensitive to heat? All this happens when the car get hot as well... should I take out the foam? Does this matter greatly otherwise?

 

 

Terry

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This very thing happened to me when I was running an RCI Aluminum cell in the first Z. Scottie GNZ eventually bought the cell, but the cell wasn't the problem, the plumbing/ setup was. You have one of a couple of things happening... The cell is either getting to hot, causing gas to BOIL in the lines, which is causing the cell to expand and contract, or you aren't getting enough air into the system, causing vapor lock.

 

First thing to do is drive the car with the cap off. If the same thing happens, then it isn't air, but heat related. I'd go that route first. However, and truct me here, I almost burned my car to the ground because of this, If you are using an aluminum cell, and your mufflers are running to close, you will get lots of extra heat when there isn't much airflow moving the heat that is radiating from the mufflers. Heat shields will help, but you want them as thick as you can have them made.

 

Mike Kelly 8)

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I have kind of a dumb question too :lol: I have a RCI cell that i havent installed yet either. How do you drill a hole for the sender and not have metal shavings fall inside? Or do you let the fuel filter worry about that?

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I use the same one as Tim. Sending unit is 0-90 ohm. I mounted mine up through the cargo area and centered it because I wanted to run symetrical dual exhaust and I didn't want the sump to hang below the valance. I will make a cover to go over the cell with an access door for refueling to keep everything out of the passenger compartment. Pics here. You can see the fi return line, fuel door and the sending unit all on top.

 

normal_DSC01088.JPG

normal_DSC01089.JPG

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Tim,

 

The vent is in the cap...little round button next to the twist thingy. No problems so far. If it becomes a problem, I will re-install 280z stock system and vent through it.

 

Rufus,

 

Main hoop is an Alston and fabbed the rest. Will post some pics when I get home and find them. To keep things straight and stay of the moderator's S---list, I will post under body, kits and paint forum:?

 

Wayne

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