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Turbo Swap progress pics


Sean73

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Well finally I am posting some progress pics. Check out my gallery:

 

http://hybridz.org/nuke/modules.php?op=modload&name=coppermine&file=index&cat=10218

 

Some info on my setup:

 

L28ET, completely rebuilt F54/P90 Block with P79 flattop pistons (8.8 CR)

T3/T04E Hybrid turbo

Porsche/Saab Bosch BOV

Jet hot coated stock ex. manifold with spacer to clear compressor.

Custom 2.5" DP feeding 3" mandrel bent exhaust

Isuzu NPR IC.

Jet hot coated 2.25" IC plumbing.

1984 Z31 Turbo ECCS & flow tested injectors

APEXI air filter and custom SS plumbing.

Weber big throat TB

Mallory low pressure fuel pump feeding custom surge tank

Stock fuel tank modded w/ 3/8" feed

Porsche 911 Turbo (Bosch) EFI fuel pump

Bosch adjustable FPR

Manual Boost Controller

Griffin Radiator, 16" Permacool electric fan

 

As of recently, I've installed the rest of the IC plumbing and intake. Amazingly, I managed to not make a single cut into the stock radiator support. I am making the final connections and hope to have it started soon for the MSA show. Will post more pics soon. After the break in period, I plan to max out the injectors at about 12 psi. I designed this swap to be easily scalable, and eventually I hope for 15-17 psi or more with programmable EFI.

 

Sean

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Yeah, I am using the stock head gasket. I took Corky Bell's advice, and declared the stock head gasket good till 15 psi (intercooled, of course). Since I'm going to run out of fuel at 12 psi, I don't think the head gasket will be a problem for this stage of modfication, but we'll see.

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That setup should work fine, but timing is even more critical with the 8.8 cr ratio. My buddy with stock fuel 240zt with same engine made 260hp/290ft @10psi on a smaller hybrid turbo and a spearco. He went with 18btdc from 20btdc and worked fine for him. He went haltec and didnt zero his timing correctly, and at 13psi=ringlands bye bye. I believe that was at 24btdc when he thought he was at 20btdc.

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Looks awesome, id love to see some more of the whole car.

 

Question for you on the stock headgasket... you mentioned that the stock one gives out at 15psi. Is that running the 8.8:1 compression ratio?

 

Im running a felpro headgasket and was hoping to run 18psi with my setup. I am running the stock 7.8:1 CR though.

 

-Austin

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Yeah, I am using the stock head gasket. I took Corky Bell's advice, and declared the stock head gasket good till 15 psi (intercooled, of course). Since I'm going to run out of fuel at 12 psi, I don't think the head gasket will be a problem for this stage of modfication, but we'll see.

 

You'll have no trouble with the stock head gasket, or a FelPro for that matter. I'm running mine at 16 psi, and Shane ran his at 23 psi with no problems. The headgasket is usually the weak link when you get detonation, so if the engine is tuned right, headgaskets will not normally fail.

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Nice setup! However, 8.8:1 cr on a datsun turbo will be hard to tune out detonation.

 

A friend of mine is trying that now on his 77 280 and found out 18 degrees total ignition timing under boost is all his engine will take at 6 psi, stock T3, no IC, 93 octane. We ending up welding the dist advance solid and hooked up the distributor vacuum advance to BOTH the manifold and to the ported vacuum (viva Y-connector). This gives a lot of timing off boost then redards it when the boost comes on.

 

So, he is running around on 28 degrees (18 initial + 10 vacuum) timing under full vacuum or under no vacuum situations then drops to 18 degrees under positive manifold pressure. Not the best way to do it but it works. An after market ignition timing controller or an aftermarket efi system will come in handy to tune out dentonation.

 

He is using an FMU to add more fuel under boost. I'm doing the same thing on my 76 Z, except I'm using the stock turbo compression (7.4:1). I 'm running a stock T3 at 12 psi, spearco IC, 20 degrees inital timing and 28 total (mechanical advance only) with no detonation.

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Looks great so far Sean! Question, can you explain that Wastegate Actuator to me? I'm assuming it's hydrolic, i've just never seen one like yours. If you dont have the time, i understand, you look to be a bit busy :wink: Thanks and keep up the nice work! It'll reward you soon enough!!!

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The wastegate actuator is just stock-type, nothing fancy. I did buy a special bracket that is adjustable for mounting it on the compressor, and had to make a funny looking actuator rod.

 

I have the whole setup installed now, will try to post pics soon. I did post a pic of the whole car in my gallery.

 

Help me please, I can't get it started! I have 7 days till the MSA show, and only about ~1hour per day to work on the car. I've got fuel and spark. Firing order is correct. No codes from the ECU. It starts up maybe for a second or two on cranking. I definitely have more tests to do, but am running out of time. I am going to swap out the CAS next and see what happens.

 

Are you guys with Z31 ECCS running the Z31 CAS or S130 CAS- does it matter?

 

Pyro- I thought timing was controlled by the turbo ECU, so there is no mechanical or vacuum advance on turbo S130s or Z31s.

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I once had a problem that a car would start and then die right after I returned the key to the run position. It turned out that the ECU got power in the crank postition but not in the run position. Perhaps you should look into that. This also aplies to the coil.

 

Good luck

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Yes, you are right. The turbo ecu controls the timing. I didn't see you were using the turbo ecu in your list when I first read it. So you may not have any control over that. I'm don't know what the factory ecu does with the ignition timing curve (retard, advance, and knock sensor). I hope it can handle a cr of 8.8:1 and 12 psi.

 

My bubby's car dentonates like crazy if more than 18 degrees TOTAL ignition timing is used. At 30 degrees of total timing, it sounded like shaking a big coffee can with 20 or 30 marbles inside.

 

In my and my bubby's case, we are using the stock 77 and 76 distributors so we can turn adjust the initial and total advance. But that is all, no knock sensors and just rpm dependent advance (very primative compared to computer controlled ignition).

 

Sorry, I can't help with your ecu transplant. But good luck!!

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