Jump to content
HybridZ

Help! What brake options are available for S30 Z cars?


Recommended Posts

Since I have the suspension all apart on the 280 and will be doing the MM 240sx rear brakes with the large Toyota/300 vented rotors in the front, am I going to need to install some longer wheel studs for wheel spacers to clear those large front calipers?

 

TIA

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Depends on the wheel. 14" is plenty large to clear around the outside. My western turbine wheels rubbed around the center. Some clear some don't.

 

These wheels did not clear the vented S12+8 (two different sized pistons on vented rotors). I'm running a .25" space and need longer studs..

http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/303/imgp1609y.jpg

 

While these wheels cleared just fine.

http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/1706/imgp1607m.jpg

 

The center of the wheel's hub is where the caliper was hitting the wheel. If you take the wheel off and look at the back of the bolt circle. If it looks like the flat mating surface is about the same diameter as the hub you are mounting it to, you are probably fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does any one on here have pics of their 79' to 81' 280ZX rear disc brake swap into an S30. I need to see the Stainless brake lines you used and how they fit. Can I just buy the regular Earls SS lines from Motorsport for my 260Z and still use them with the ZX rear disk brakes???

 

I need pics people, Please!!! I'm a visual kinda guy.

 

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So here's my Progress so far. This is all on an early 260Z (2/74) using the 79' to 81' rear disc brake conversion brackets from JOE and 79' 280ZX rear calipers. The Ebrake mounting tab is too low and has clearance issues with the control arm. My fix is in the pics. The early 260Z's brake line mount is in direct line with the large caliper plate and will need to be removed and a new one place farther back towards the rear of the car to clear the plate.

 

I crossed the Ebrake cables to take up the slack and they work great. I can operate them by hand, pulling the "Horse-shoe bracket in front of the diff.

 

Now I gotta change the brake line bracket to clear the caliper plate. Then order the Stainless brake lines to mock up the hard line from the calipers.

 

Dave

18146_thumb.attach

18147_thumb.attach

18148_thumb.attach

DSCN0735_thumb.JPG

18150_thumb.attach

18151_thumb.attach

18152_thumb.attach

18153_thumb.attach

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I bought a brake line with ends on it and started bending. Foound some of the OE brackets and tried this out...... Below.

 

Also ordered my Stainless Steel Brake lines and clutch line. Should be here by thursday, so I can see if the mod will work with full suspension travel. Cause this WILL be a driver, not some show peice, taking up space in some dark garage. I hate that.

 

Oh Ya, I used the old ratty line for mock up but it's out of here on thursday. I'm thinking maybe a long soft spring for any hang over issues, similar to the ebrake line over the diff.

DSCN0745_thumb.JPG

DSCN0747_thumb.JPG

DSCN0748_thumb.JPG

DSCN0749_thumb.JPG

DSCN0750_thumb.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been looking around for rebuild kits for the S12W calipers (this also applies for the S12-8) and the 280zx 79-81 calipers. I went to ORileys and they insisted that people don't make rebuild kits anymore.

 

Well, don't let them fool you into buying re-manufactured ones if you don't have the money. I don't mind buying them since its lifetime warranty but S12W's are $47 each and I had traded some parts for these brakes, so I don't really want to go out spending more. So, to help everyone out, rather than asking the silly Orileys guys to look it up and having them feed you a line of ♥♥♥♥ half the time, just walk in with a part number:

 

S12W caliper front left PN: 19-1241

 

S12W caliper front right PN: 19-1240

 

S12W rebuild kit left/right PN: CK352010

 

S12-8 caliper front left PN: 19-827

 

S12-8 caliper front right PN: 19-826

 

S12-8 rebuild kit left/right PN: CK351602

 

'79 280ZX caliper right without shroud rear PN: 19-156

 

'79 280ZX caliper left rear without shroud PN: 19-157

 

'79 280ZX caliper right rear with shroud PN: 19-B156

 

'79 280ZX caliper left rear with shroud PN: 19-B157

 

'79 280ZX caliper left/right rear rebuilt kit PN: CK351297

 

I asked my dad and he said when rebuilding you usually replace the pistons too. I don't know what the requirements are as far as piston condition and when they need to be replaced. I think I will just reuse my pistons unless they look like they have been tortured. The fact of the matter is that if you have to buy pistons for the S12W, you might as well just buy a re-manufactured caliper, especially when its lifetime warranty.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

Ok, I've read all 17 pages and I still have a specific unanswered question so here it is.

 

The preface: my '72 240z came with a healthy all-stock brake system except for a new 15/16" MC. My car has the factory option 14" alloy slotted wheels, which I think everyone calls the "peanut" or "kidney bean" wheels - these: http://hooniverse.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/IMG_6616.jpg . I like them, and until I can afford 16" Panasports, they are staying on the car. The car will not see any track time in the near future, it's not even autocross worthy yet.

 

I am interested in doing the S12 4-piston caliper bolt-on conversion for use with the SOLID rotors. The interest lies mainly in giving the oversize MC something it can work with and improving the braking a bit for spirited street driving and just to improve the overall safety of the brake system. Figure why not upgrade a little if rebuilt stock calipers will probably cost about the same amount anyway...

 

The question: Is there a particular set of the S12 calipers for use with stock solid rotors that will not interfere with the factory 14" mag wheels? I don't mind grinding a ridge of metal off or some other minor driveway repair, but if my only option without cutting, drilling or welding becomes using bigger wheels then I'll just downsize to the factory 240z MC and run the brakes stock until I can afford to do a real conversion along with the bigger wheels. So, can anyone tell me definitively whether one set of S12's or another that bolts up and uses the stock solid rotors fits readily inside the factory slotted 14" mags?

 

PM's are fine as a reply in case it's deemed unnecessary to clutter the thread further. Thanks, everyone.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

My question on the brake upgrade on the S30 is I know people have done the Z32 calipers, however has anyone ever tried to front mount the caliper like it is on the Z32 I know the S30 is a rear mount setup. Any help or comments on this would be greatly appreciated. Also don't mean to thread jack.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

i've got a question for the brake gurus. i really wanted to order the modern motorsports 240sx rear brake kit because sx parts are so readily available. i've tried to contact ross for the last couple of months but have received no answer. i know a few people run 240sx rears with custom brackets... i was wondering, what brackets do people use? the offset maxima brackets that are modified? (i assume they would have to be modded as it clearly states in the MM information page that the offset from the standard maxima bracket would not allow use of 240sx calipers. can anybody confirm or deny this?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
;) This is for BTF/PTM. The S-12 calibers are a bolt on and will fit 14" rims. I have run a 14x7 western minilight wheel on my Z with the S-12 caliber for over 2 years, before I went to the 300ZX/S-12W setup. You can cut out the dust shield for the caliber or remove it. I took it off and didn't have a problem with it for the time it was on the car. Gave the calibers to a friend to put on his Z before I left Colorado. Good Luck with the swap, it is a good change for the Z. B)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Not impressed with my brake upgrade at all. The shop that is taking care of my project also did the brakes. I got Toyota 4 piston calipers and new rotors up front. And Nissan 240SX calipers in the rear. They used a Wilwood Brake Master Cylinder (7/8" bore) and they by passed the stock proportioning valve.

 

The car freaking brakes like a TRAIN!! Any tips on how to fix the issue? Even if we wanted to lock up the brakes, absolutely no way in hell we could. We got to drive it this last Friday for the first time with an RB25DET in it. It hauls ass but I would actually consider it a road safety hazard with the current setup. Even with down shifting, it's terrible braking. I actually refuse to drive it on the streets. If anybody has any suggestions, please let me know.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not impressed with my brake upgrade at all. The shop that is taking care of my project also did the brakes. I got Toyota 4 piston calipers and new rotors up front. And Nissan 240SX calipers in the rear. They used a Wilwood Brake Master Cylinder (7/8" bore) and they by passed the stock proportioning valve.

 

The car freaking brakes like a TRAIN!! Any tips on how to fix the issue? Even if we wanted to lock up the brakes, absolutely no way in hell we could. We got to drive it this last Friday for the first time with an RB25DET in it. It hauls ass but I would actually consider it a road safety hazard with the current setup. Even with down shifting, it's terrible braking. I actually refuse to drive it on the streets. If anybody has any suggestions, please let me know.

 

What's locking up first, fronts or rears? You're not running any prop valve at all?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From what they told me, I think they by-passed the proportioning valve to the rear. I'm not sure if the proportioning valve controls front and rear.

Would an after market proportioning valve, say like a wilwood, help my cause. Rather than running the factory setup, remove it and put in the Wilwood valve??

 

Neither the front nor rears are locking up. Upon closer inspection of the rear brakes, it seems that the rear brake pads are barely touching the discs. I can still see the swirl marks from when they were brand new. I wish I had some kind of lock up but there's none.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...