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Really an L28?


HakosukaJD

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So I recently bought a Hakosuka. The shop advertised the car as an L28 with Mikuni (Solex) 44's.

 

So I get the car home and take the silencer out of the tailpipe that was no doubt stuffing the engine. Since I'm new to carb'd cars, a friend of mine assists in balancing them (and we find one of the butterfly posts to be a bit tweaked...fixed now).

No matter what he did, he couldn't get the engine to run smooth through the mid-rpms (carb spits, hesitation etc). Power/torque under 2k is pretty good and the car takes off above 4k RPMS. So he assumes the jetting may be a bit off.

We pull the head cover to see what kind of CAM its running to possibly get a baseline to start from. The cam has no markings on the end (where, I'm told an aftermarket cam is usually marked), but has L20 stamped in the middle of the cam. Engine looks like it has recently been rebuilt.

 

Looked strange to us...L20 cam in an L28. We look at the block plate, and it also says L20. The head is an N42 (L28, I believe) head.

 

I call the shop. The shop ASSURES me the engine is indeed an L28 and that it is likely the previous owner shaved the block plate and restamped it to pay the lesser road tax (Japan road taxes based partly on displacement).

 

Apart from taking the head off and measuring the cylinders, are there any other definative ways to identify this block as either an L20 or an L28? Block serial code? Appendages?

 

I know somebody here has all these differences memorized!

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I would bet that it's an L20 bored and stroked to an L28. Like you said "Japan road taxes based partly on displacement". I know that's what I would do if the block would hold. Your buddy might be right about the roughness. Carbs are such a PITA and even more when you have more then one of them.

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That's almost a 30% increase in displacement....is that possible?

 

 

 

I would bet that it's an L20 bored and stroked to an L28. Like you said "Japan road taxes based partly on displacement". I know that's what I would do if the block would hold. Your buddy might be right about the roughness. Carbs are such a PITA and even more when you have more then one of them.
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That's almost a 30% increase in displacement....is that possible?

 

Might be possible. L20a = 69.7mm stroke, 79mm bore = 2000cc

L20a block with L28 crank and rods = 79mm stroke, 79mm bore = 2300cc

L20a block with 0.160 over bore, L28 crank and rods = 79mm stroke, 83mm bore = 2600cc ie a L26.

 

I know the P30 blocks (ie L24 and L26 block) can be bored to 86mm so if the L20 blocks have the same water jackets etc of the L24/L26 blocks then it should be possible.

 

Best way to tell is get the block casting number, ie P30, N42, F54 (does anyone know that a L20 block should be? I can look at Dad's L20 tomorrow when I visit his place (just don't know right now)

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Absolutely!

Mr. Gasket makes a displacement tester which is basically a plexiglas tube with graduations on the side and a sliding aluminum plate inside that moves when you crank the engine over on a cylinder with the rocker arms disabled.

This is how displacement is checked at Bonneville and El Mirage in impound after setting a record (as long as your engine is not within 3% of the class maximum).

 

The shaving of the block and restamping is VERY common in Japan. I had one of those... No 33 plate for you! LOL

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Are you sure its not a rare 2lt twin cam motor?

Chucky:twisted:

 

I guarantee you if I had one of those' date=' you would have seen it by now :)

 

Z-Gad and N-Zeder win.....although I'm SURE Soileau is right too (I forgot about his suggestion when I was looking...I'll look again:) )

 

N42 is clearly visible on the left side ~#2 near the oil pan. Obviously molded with the block rather than stamped as the engine ID plate was.

 

http://photobucket.com/albums/c248/hakosuka32/?action=view&currnet=block.gif

 

Funny thing about that ID plate....I WAS registered with a 300 tag!

 

So now the issue is... what the hell cam is it and why can't we get it running right? lol

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As mentioned above you probably have an engine that has had the serial number modded. Lots easier to do that then to get the title changed to reflect L-28.

 

Im kind of an old school guy in japan i had an L-28 that was stamped l-20 in my newman skyline back in the day.

 

Can you take a pic of the serial number area? Its sometimes pretty obvious if you see it next to a block that has not been tampered with. If i remember correctly all teh L series cams are pretty much interchangable and they probably threw whatever they had in it. L-28 parts are getting pretty scarce over there now a days. If it ever needs to be replaced or rebuilt youd be better off going with an rb26. :-D

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I tried to get some clean pictures but its difficult as the coolant hose that runs to the heater core is in the way....camera was too close to focus. But this is generally what they look like...

 

a>

 

 

So do you think its even possible to get it running decent on an L20 cam with Mik44's?

 

As mentioned above you probably have an engine that has had the serial number modded. Lots easier to do that then to get the title changed to reflect L-28.

 

Im kind of an old school guy in japan i had an L-28 that was stamped l-20 in my newman skyline back in the day.

 

Can you take a pic of the serial number area? Its sometimes pretty obvious if you see it next to a block that has not been tampered with. If i remember correctly all teh L series cams are pretty much interchangable and they probably threw whatever they had in it. L-28 parts are getting pretty scarce over there now a days. If it ever needs to be replaced or rebuilt youd be better off going with an rb26. :-D

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I tried to get some clean pictures but its difficult as the coolant hose that runs to the heater core is in the way....camera was too close to focus. But this is generally what they look like...

 

a>

 

 

So do you think its even possible to get it running decent on an L20 cam with Mik44's?

 

 

If thats the actual pic of the serial number area on the block, you can see that it has a metal head gasket...

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I can't recall (who or if I read it somewhere) but I do remember someone telling me once that the L20 cam has a lot more meet and is good to use for putting a grind on to. So maybe this is what has been done to the L20 cam you have in this engine.

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  • 2 years later...

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