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csr water pump


Silent

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From what I've seen and read, these electric water pumps are built well and do suck less HP. Also, being powered by electricity, one can actually control of the pumps speed if a potentiometer (varialble resistor) is installed in the circuit. Although they are much more expensive than a mechanical unit, they do provide advantages....and they have alot of HRC (High Rate of Coolness)!

Just my 2 cent worth!

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well, along with the cool, and hp gains. im going for the ease of work. less moving parts for me, the better, hence why i like carbs on z cars better then efi. i was probably going to do the usual on off switch type set up, rather then a variable resistance type set up, or just put it in line with my msd fuel pump switch, for less clutter.

 

 

main reason, more power. cheaper belts

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  • 4 months later...

As for HP. In the Impala SS world we saw an increase of 9hp on an LT1 motor using an electric water pump, and it stays cooler when idling in traffic. Hope this helps.

 

Any idea of the measurement of the CSR unit with adapter?

 

HB280ZT

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I do not run the CSR pump so I can not give you any comments there but what I can tell you is that JeffP (from Hybridz) had pretty much everything to do with the creation of that pump. Knowing what type of person Jeff is I would say you should not have any isues with form and fit, I do not know much about CSR so I won't even guess about anything else with the pump.

 

As for my car I use the Moroso electric motor (called an electric water pump) from Summitt that cost $79 and uses an electric motor to turn your stock water pump. It is not exactly plug and play but it is not difficult. I have put hundreds of hours on this thing and it still works great.

 

I can not tell you how much power I gained from this mod as I did this at the same time I rebuilt the engine and added several other things.

 

Dragonfly

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Ok, now that I know people are using the CSR pump how about some pictures and some measurements??? Please!!

 

I really want to know where they got the mounting bracket and if the unit is any longer then the stock setup with pulley??

 

HB280ZT

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Ok' date=' now that I know people are using the CSR pump how about some pictures and some measurements??? Please!!

 

I really want to know where they got the mounting bracket and if the unit is any longer then the stock setup with pulley??

 

HB280ZT[/quote']

 

Take a look at Jeff's page http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/page24.html see if that helps you any.

 

Dragonfly

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I have the CSR it stick out about as far as the mechanical pump and is about as big around as the stock pulley, it appears to be a generic electric water oumo that they use on any bumber f engines just with different mounting bases, in the case of the L6 it's just a machines piece of aluminum with recessed holes for the supplied alan head bolts and then the motor just bolts to it with 4 more screws, my car is race only but it seems to do a decent job of keeping things cool at idle, I do seem to build up heat when running, perhaps it can't keep up with constant high revs I don't think I would trust it on a road race car

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Since my engine is out of the car right now I went out and took a few pictures of the Moroso "electric water pump" that I use.

 

P10100033.JPG

 

P10100023.JPG

 

P1010001.JPG

 

It took a few modifications (it's made for a big block V8) but at $79 it was well worth it to me and it works just fine.

 

Dragonfly

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You are correct, I was the driving force behind that pump. The rating of the uit was 25GPH or so @ 4PSI when they tested the configuration.

I have run this pump for a while and it performs well. I have taken it on long trips and it doesn't skip a beat.

So for my car it is working well with the electric fan. One thing to caution you about, if you are running a stock alternator, and all of the electric gadgets that I am running you may have current/voltage problems with the cooling.

What I found on my car, was that the alternator regulator was taking the idle current/voltage down to about 11.6 volts also at higher rpms where the alternator should have had full power. The car got hot with the low voltage to the pump and fan.

I dont know if it will be any kind of a problem with a carb setup. I can tell you running the injectors, electric fan(the biggest current drain) the water pump, fuel pump, and finally the ECU I have had problems with running voltage. So check that out when you start installing all the electric stuff.

Does the pump work, yes it does. I got a better alternator, not much for 600.00 but better. I can keep the 14.1 volt idle voltage if I run ONLY the components I have listed, any more drain, using the cig lighter for instance I lose voltage, the pump slows down, the fan slows down and the car starts running 3/4 gauge.

Then I tried to get a little more from the alternator and turned the regulator voltage to about 14.8 volts max and when I did not get the voltage dropping off the car ran fine, with the A/C running on a day of about 95-105 degrees. about 180 degrees. So it will work good provided you have sufficient voltage regulation.

My story is a little unique, as I dont know anyone that is running so much drain on the system @ idle.

So, my opinion of the unit is that it works very well. The pump sticks out of the front cover about 1/4" shorter then the stock pump, so an electric fan is very doable, and there is still room to change the belts in between the pump motor, and the fan motor, provided the fan is center on the radiator.

Oh and BTY CSR use to be called CSI, and as I understand it, it was because of this pump that made them change their name, and file bankruptsy because of some patant issue, go figure.

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  • 3 years later...

I know I am bumping an old thread but I have a relevant question. I bought a CSR electric water pump for my L28ET and I bought it from someone else who had never used it.

 

I need to get a shorter belt for my alternator as that is the only thing I will be driving off of the crank. Does anyone know what size/length belt I need and/or have a part# for a belt that fits? Thanks.

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I know the CSR pumps for the LT1's flow less at max RPM, but not far behind the LT1 pump. The main advantage is the increased flow rate at idle. I considered an electric pump on my 94 impala (LT1) but that was because the LT1's tend to eat up water pumps, and it's a big job on that motor. So for the LT1's its more of a maintenance thing than the 5 or so HP gain to be had.

 

With the Lseries motor, the pumps are very reliable, cheap, and easy to replace. I see less of a need for them on these cars. It is a cool mod though. One advantage is you can leave the pumps run with the fans on with the engine off to cool it down to min operating temperature. I don't know why I find that so entertaining.

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I see there is some additional interest in the CSR pump. For belt sixing what I did was to take the old belt, cut it to fit the new configuration making sure it was tight enough to tighten with the stock adjuster, and the billet adjuster from MSA for that matter, and had it sized at an auto parts store. That worked out well.

So it just dawned on me that there is an upgrade that can be done to the pump. When I had this thing designed and built, it was built around the stock L28 water pump. I did not know at the time the LD water pump had a bigger impeller. Now I had the LD pump and made the mods to the front cover to fit the pump. I will be spinning it with a belt again, and removed the electric pump for all of my testing of the cooling modifications I have made to the engine.

So if it turns out that the LD pump cooles the engine more effectively, then I think a very good test of the CSR pump would be to get back to the people at CSR and have them make a pump impeller based on the LD pump impeller. As I think most of you know by now, the LD pump impeller is about .200" larger then the stock L28 pump.

I really did like the electric pump, but I have been testing the cooling situation associated with high hp L engines, so I started back at some known givens for my testing like installing the LD pump to start and go from there.

I am pretty proud of this gesign modification I have done for this electric option and really want that as my final build, but I have to complete the testing first.

Heating and heat soaking is my first priority. I could be wrong here, but I think my car is one of the best tests that can be completed on the pump. If the pump can keep my car cool under power then it is a snap, but I need the LD pump data first as a comparsion.

A .200" larger dia impeller is significant, and CSR has the data I believe from the first pump design to compare with. I will have to call them Monday about making the upgraded impeller and go from there.

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