Jump to content
HybridZ

240z 280z differences in actual shells


Guest EliZZa

Recommended Posts

Guest EliZZa

Hi everyone,

I own a 71 240z that is completely rusted out and a 74 shell in what I thought to be good shape, but unforntunetly I just figured out that its crooked...

I've spent the last year or so picking and rebuilding all the 240z suspension and drivetrain parts... bought the toxico springs and struts, bushings even the rear disc conversion, not to mention the motor mods... ( id like to throw a shout to all you members, although I've never posted before, I've gathered alot of information from this site aswell as many others...thanks so much)

 

However, I dont have a decent frame...ones rusted to **** and the other crooked and I dont beleive I could ever really straighten it... so Im looking for a new shell..

 

I have found a perfect 78 280Z shell, other then the normal stuff like bumbers and extra rails in the doors is there any differences between the actual unibodies???... I've heard that the actual sheetmetal used is little thicker, but this cant amount too much more then a 100pounds... I'm thinking of taking everything out of the 240z and putting it on the 280z shell, and I mean everything including the title...does anybody see any problems that I would run in to??....

 

 

I also know about the excess in wiring, dash and engine weight..this dosn't concern me, as I would use all the parts I have already rebuildt and painted. Is there a difference in the placement off suspension assembly..

I bought the 240z toxico lowering package, I assume the only difference beteween the 240 and the 280 kit is the weight rating....

 

thanks in advance for any help....

Emile

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the 280z uses the r200 diff which is a bit longer than the R180 on the 240 and is placed a bit further back thatn the earlier cars, the suspension mounting points are higher in the chassis so your 240 suspension will give more of a drop but will bolt right in, the 77-78 used a better rear brake setup, so ifyour gonna keep rear drums use the 78 drum setup, the 280 came from the factory with a forward mounted rear sway bar which is a plus, the console had no provisions for choke cables and the fuse box is located in the passanger kickpanel, the wiring is completely different and factory air was available on the late 280's (another plus) the 280 core support drops lowetr than the early 240, there are lots of little differences but nothing that you can't work through, I however would suggest you keep the 78 titled as a 78 becuase messing with the vin is illegal, and you have nothing to gain by titling it as something it's not

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the 280z uses the r200 diff which is a bit longer than the R180 on the 240 and is placed a bit further back that the earlier cars,

 

Not quite correct. I bolted an R200 in place of the R180 in my 240. The diffs are the same length, but in the real early 240's were simply mounted differently.

 

There are significant differences in the shells. The doors are completely different, including the latch mechanisims. A lot of the suspension parts are different. The 280's had thicker strut tubes, different front hubs, different stub axles, different steering racks. The 280 strut top hats are an inch or two taller than the 240. The 280's have subframe rails that go all the way under the car where as the 240's stop about 2/3 the way back.

 

how much of this will affect you I don't know. I would drop a PM to zcarnut, because I know he has posted extremely detailed lists of the differences between the two cars. You might search through some of his old posts. If you go to the members page, there should be a button that will display every post he has ever made.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you worried about weight i wouldnt worry the 280z is a much stronger design and can go on a diet to around 2300 pounds and probally lower

 

If your planning to run a really powerfull motor the a turbo l series then the 280z stock will be able to hold itself together pretty well

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest EliZZa

Well, after alot of research and guesstimates, I've come to the conclusion that a 280z shell (that means a unibody with every bolt and screw removed, including doors, glass, interior...everything thatI can remove without a torch (well, maybe a little bit of torch:D) ) cant be more the 80 or so lbs heavier then a similarly prepared 240z shell... anybody disagree???

 

now, just worried about the suspension mounting pointss... could they have been changed....??? does anybody know if the suspension rubber part (cant remember the name for the life of me) at the top of the strut, the one with 3 body mounting bolts on the other...is different from the 240z to the 280z????

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well' date=' after alot of research and guesstimates, I've come to the conclusion that a 280z shell (that means a unibody with every bolt and screw removed, including doors, glass, interior...everything thatI can remove without a torch (well, maybe a little bit of torch:D) ) cant be more the 80 or so lbs heavier then a similarly prepared 240z shell... anybody disagree???

[/quote']

 

I guess that could be possible, but I am pretty sure that 280z's were about 300-450 lbs heavier then the 240z, not sure on exactly how much heavier they are.

 

If your planning to run a really powerfull motor the a turbo l series then the 280z stock will be able to hold itself together pretty well

 

Shouldn't a 240z be able to hold itself together just as well, other than the r200 and stub axels I would guess?

 

If you worried about weight i wouldnt worry the 280z is a much stronger design and can go on a diet to around 2300 pounds and probally lower

 

Is it really? I didn't know that. How is it stronger, other than the r200?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can use the 240 struts if you have them rebuilt already. Suspension pick ups are the same. 280's have ugly (IMO) tail lights, don't know if they can be swapped, also the interior also looks a little different. Don't know if either matters to you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

240 rear struts don't work so hot in the back of a stock-ish 280. Makes the butt drag, because the strut tube is shorter, as is the rubber islolator. The body of the 280 has taller strut towers in the rear compared to the 240, which necessitates the taller parts.

 

The front struts should swap, but the 240 has a different OD as previously mentioned, so if you ever buy coilovers for them you need to get the right stuff.

 

240 springs will be too light for a 280.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest EliZZa
The body of the 280 has taller strut towers in the rear compared to the 240' date=' which necessitates the taller parts.

 

240 springs will be too light for a 280.[/quote']

 

then I may be able to a use the 280z rubber isolator and a space..?? on the rear I mean? ummmmmmm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

I know i am reviving an old thread but i have a question on this subject. I have a 260z, early 74, I am planning on putting a turbo engine in it and i have already installed an r200 rear diff. Should i get 280z struts and coils because of the added weight? Or should i get 240z struts and 280z coils? Ideas? Im looking for the best decision concerning optimum handling.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you talking about stock springs and shocks? Or are you talking about which strut should you use 240z vs. 280z? Just trying to understand better.

 

You might want the 280z stub axles since they are stronger, as for reusing stock components... I would personally just use after market stuff unless you know the shocks and springs are fresh. Not sure if that was your question...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you talking about stock springs and shocks? Or are you talking about which strut should you use 240z vs. 280z? Just trying to understand better.

 

You might want the 280z stub axles since they are stronger, as for reusing stock components... I would personally just use after market stuff unless you know the shocks and springs are fresh. Not sure if that was your question...

No im speaking about on msa. You can buy either springs for a 9/74-78 280z or springs for a 70-8/74 240z. I have a 8/74 260z. Its has a full 280z r200 rear end in it recently installed. What combination of struts and springs should i purchase? I have figured that because of the extra weight that i should buy both 280z struts and springs. Will this fit? Also, what is the difference between the arizona z car springs and struts vs the, say, springs and struts msa sells. Tokico illumina and eibach springs vs an arizona z car set up. Which provides better handling? Differences? Similarities?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...