loy Posted December 25, 2006 Share Posted December 25, 2006 Nutserts are sold seperatly from bolts. Here is a pic of what they look like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wickiewicked240z Posted December 25, 2006 Share Posted December 25, 2006 I got my nutserts and bolts for www.mcmaster.com i went m6 nutsert steel and m6 20mm allen head bolts stainless steel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott19 Posted December 26, 2006 Share Posted December 26, 2006 Just a side note for everyone: When I put my ZG flares on, I used license plate bolt/screw covers (sourced from a local parts store) to cover the exposed screw heads. Gave it a nice finished look. Just an option if you don't want the silver of the screws showing. I also recommend marking your flares underneath so you'll know which fender they mount to. Simple insurance to save a headache later on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zedevan Posted January 19, 2007 Share Posted January 19, 2007 hi austin, and others who have done this install, go ahead and hammer in the nut inserts i've managed to source all of the componets, although some people i've talked to say that a special tool is required for the nut inserts, and i dont see how you could of hammered them in to distort them like you did just with a hammer? unless you have alot of skill? which i'd say could be the case judging by the appearance of your car so is a special tool needed? if so, its name and a rough price would be great thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted January 19, 2007 Author Share Posted January 19, 2007 Well to start off with I used a slightly oversized drill bit so they were a little easier to put in. I also used a screw driver I believe to support hte metal on the back side, this is why I put the nutserts in before welding up the lips. I also tack welded them in for safe measures. It would be fairly easy to make a tool yourself to install them and would prolly work alot better. Ill draw a sketch later tonight and post it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zedevan Posted January 20, 2007 Share Posted January 20, 2007 thanks, that'd be appreshiated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zedevan Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 sorry, not meaning to be rude but would be great if you could post your sketch of the make shift tool! also wouldn't the screw driver have to be taking a fair bit of force? and be semi hard to hold there while doing this? i really should of bought an extra nut insert to try installing into some random peice of metal... thanks -evan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
majik16106 Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 john,in the pic of the rusty old datsun.. are you running 16or 17inch wheels? i always have a problem telling wheel size with zg flares for some reason. and amir runs 17inch ccw right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 16" with 275/45-16 tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racin_Jason Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 OK hoke...what wheels are you running? Brand/size/offset? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z_Master Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 OK hoke...what wheels are you running? Brand/size/offset? RS-Watanabes 16x9 -16 16x9.5 -19 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted February 24, 2007 Share Posted February 24, 2007 hi austin, and others who have done this install, i've managed to source all of the componets, although some people i've talked to say that a special tool is required for the nut inserts, and i dont see how you could of hammered them in to distort them like you did just with a hammer? unless you have alot of skill? which i'd say could be the case judging by the appearance of your car so is a special tool needed? if so, its name and a rough price would be great thanks the special tool is cheap. you can actually get a nutsert kit (i've been looking, since i asked what they were on this thread, on page 1) the tool is basically like a rivet popper, but it has a bolt that goes through the other end of the handle that you screw into the nutsert while it's on the surface that it will be attached to. you then squeeze the handle, and a small lip holds the edge of the nutsert in place, while the bolt is pulled away from the nutsert. being that the bolt was threaded into the nutsert. when you brace it's movement and pull on it, it will collapse/crush itself, just like a rivet does, but almost as if it were from the outside in, instead of inside out. i think the best way to describe how it works is like taking off your socks. if you're trying to do it while standing on one foot. you grab the rim of your socks, and hold it there, while you raise your leg. the sock will crumple and your foot will come out. that's basically what the tool does, except when it's crumpled the nutsert, you have to unscrew the bolt out the rest of the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zedevan Posted February 24, 2007 Share Posted February 24, 2007 i've now found the tool, just have to buy the fitting for the size nutserts i have which is pretty cheap. the tool however wasn't so cheap at the places i looked at (screw selling places) at over AU$150 i'd say it was pretty expensive for what it is lol i like ur sock analogy, i used the tool on a nutsert i found that was the size of the fitting on it, and it crumpled it twice basically, so behind and infront of the sheet metal, kinda special, and i'm not so sure if htey would crumple this well without the tool? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4everDATSUN Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 i work at NAPA and we sell these such nutsert kits or poly nuts PN 770-2875 (for SAE sizes) PN 770-1889 (for metric sizes) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 i work at NAPA and we sell these such nutsert kits or poly nuts PN 770-2875 (for SAE sizes) PN 770-1889 (for metric sizes) Are they aluminum or steel? I ordered some and got aluminum, I think I'd rather have steel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted March 9, 2007 Share Posted March 9, 2007 Are they aluminum or steel? I ordered some and got aluminum, I think I'd rather have steel. There ya go again! Forget lightness, I want STEEL! FYI... I ran AL on my old car without a problem in 4 years of racing. Just be careful when installing the screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 9, 2007 Share Posted March 9, 2007 Actually my problem has been that when I'm crushing them I keep pulling the threads out or else they crush crooked. I know I'm using too much force, but I figured if I got the steel I could really crank down on them and then I could tack a small weld on there and they wouldn't come loose. Maybe I should just practice with the AL ones a bit more and use them... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4everDATSUN Posted March 9, 2007 Share Posted March 9, 2007 i just got off work, ill have to get back to you tommorow on that. but im pretty sure they are steel. i didnt have any here in the store, but i called a tech line and verified that the insert are made of steel. the numbers i listed are kits that come with the thread setter tool, mandrels, and an assortment of different size nuts. everything is sold seperatly if needed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thanh Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 Hopefully someone can answer this ASAP. In the process of installing Zg flares. Today I tested the flares on today to see if they were in good shape so I can start measuring and cutting. I came across two flares that fitted really good and two flares that just left huge gaps everywhere when we tried to hold it in a mounting position. The body is pretty straight so I know for a fact it wasn't the body. My friend the body man told me to take them back for an exchanged. So we had a good passenger front flare and driver's rear. Returning the drivers front and passengers rear. I purchase this from MSA about 2 months ago. Took it in to them and they had no problem with exchanging the two. Then the guy told me that I might have mounted wrong. He said " The two wider flares are suppose to be in the front and the thin in the rear". Now I need some serious opinions on what should be the proper way to do this. I never thought that it would be Wider in the front and thinner in the back? Is he wrong? Heres a picture of the flares. I need to test fit the two I exchanged to see how they fit. I would greatly appreciated if someone can reply to this as soon as possible. What I assume is the front flares Thin ones. Blue marks perfect fit. Unmark means Exchanged What I assume is the rear flares wider one. Blue marks perfect fit. Unmark means exchanged -Thanh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toecutter Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 I'm pretty sure the wide ones go at the back. Be sure to get the two rear ones on the correct side. Just look side on and you'll notice the difference. The "fatter" part needs to face forward, very easy to confuse if you don' t look carefully as I mounted them opposite the first time. I'm pretty sure the pics below show em mounted the wrong way round, its been a while but you have to put them on and look very closely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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