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M.M. vs. azc rear lower control arm?


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I've got both. Depends on what you are doing with the car.

 

AZ is full race stuff. Gets rid of the spindle pin and no rubber bushings on the out board side. Inner bushings are your choice. I've got the nylon hard bushings that Dave sells on the inboard side of mine.

 

 

MM's use rubber bushing on the outboard side. Retains the spindel pin. Inner is your choice. These are better suited for the street driven car but still offer the on car adjustablity.

 

 

Both are top notch, well made products that we are lucky to have available for the Z car community.

 

 

Choose wisely.....

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I've installed the AZC arms and they are a royal pain in the arse to adjust and install... And NOPE, I'm not sure how you can make a claim that they are a "better" design... Better for which application?

 

Mark's description of the two arms is pretty spot on from what I know about both arms. Ross designed the rear arm to be a good street/track arm with the ability to live on the street w/ some track day use... As Mark said, Choose wisely...

Mike

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I've installed the AZC arms and they are a royal pain in the arse to adjust and install... And NOPE' date=' I'm not sure how you can make a claim that they are a "better" design... Better for which application?

 

Mark's description of the two arms is pretty spot on from what I know about both arms. Ross designed the rear arm to be a good street/track arm with the ability to live on the street w/ some track day use... As Mark said, Choose wisely...

Mike[/quote']

 

I'm curious how the AZ arms are such a pain to adjust? I own them and found it be pretty easy. Dave's earlier models were not "on the car" adjustable, but the current ones allow the front mount to be. I personally didn't find the ride comfort too bad on the street either.

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I only have experience with the MM arms and tow/tracking adjustment is very easy and they are plenty strong enough. The outer ends have poly bushings and Ross is currently working on a rod end outer for a racing application.

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Toe adjustment is better on the AZC arm than on his earlier design... I'm refering to setting up the Camber on them... Not sure how Ross does his, but The AZC unit isn't ON CAR adjustable for camber.

 

Mike

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That's what camber plates are for... :D

 

haha yea, exactly. if you wanted to you could pull out that spindle pin dave supplies (way easier than stock pin) and turn the rod ends. im really glad he provides his own pins, because damn if i ever see one of those stock pins again.. ill make little children passing by cry.

 

as far as how i can claim the azc lca's are a "better" design, i was just referring to how robust and clean they are.. personal opinion you might even say. load paths are better. i didn't like the slightly bent tube idea at first but its actually pretty smart in terms of part continuity, as well as manufacturing. when you said "for which application," im assuming you were talking about the bushings vs rod ends.. but no ones raising debate there. i mean if you want compliance, you get lca's with bushings. im just talking about the geometry.

 

on car adjustment is pretty damn straightforward too..

if youre having trouble deciding its pretty much going to come down to the outboard pickups you want. im sure almost everyone here whos bought lca's has gone through the same dilemma.. you want the azc ones, but youre not sure you want to jump into rod ends. good luck deciding man.

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I forgot about camber, you're correct, that is a bit trickier, but like nope said, the pins, or bolts, are much much easier to remove. Jon was a little harsh, sure that's what camber plates for, but there's plenty of room to play with when both are used. I like to adjust the camber with the arms so the plates have plenty of room on either side, for easy adjustments at the track. Also, small adjustments on the arms translate to large adjustmens up top.

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I forgot about camber, you're correct, that is a bit trickier, but like nope said, the pins, or bolts, are much much easier to remove. Jon was a little harsh, sure that's what camber plates for, but there's plenty of room to play with when both are used. I like to adjust the camber with the arms so the plates have plenty of room on either side, for easy adjustments at the track. Also, small adjustments on the arms translate to large adjustmens up top.

Didn't mean to be harsh. I just don't like adjusting camber from the bottom, especially when you have to fix it when one side is 2 degrees off from the other side. I'd rather set the track width with the rod ends and set the camber with the plates on top. Yes, it means that you have to buy both. But it does allow you to keep your track widths consistent and inline front to back.

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John I picked up my frist girl in my frist Z 27 years ago. She is now my wife of 24 years. She still likes my car, She is the one who siad I should do the ground up resto. I don't think she knows what she did or how fast it will be.

haha cool man.. i knew my comment would be hit or miss with the crowd on here. but hey, like you said.. shes a girl.

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I'm not a big fan of plates' date=' because they can slip. Good to measure alignment settings before and after to let you know if they are.

 

Personally, I'm glad Ross stepped up to the plate with his stuff. Gave an alternative to AZC.[/quote']'

Never heard of a camber plate slipping. Heard 2 people (including you) talk about how it CAN happen, but I've never heard of it actually happening.

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