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L28e To L28et Swap


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she now starts :icon44:

starts everytime .

i need to ajust a bunch of stuff ...i think there is a vac leak or somthing because i cant rev past 2100rpm with it starting to cut out ..

oil presser is good now .idle screw needs cleaning and ajusted .

exhaust from the cat "test pipe" and back NEEDS TO go back on so that could be part of why it wont rev out ?...on the ecu plug i had to ground the the green and blue striped wire and powerd the yellow .when i would turn the i key i could hear the fuel pump kick on but it wouldn't fire over .no start signal..in the turbo DI FROM "haynes"..it shows that the starter is ran differntly on the na car and part of it plugs into the inhibitor relay .

at one point i was making that relay freak out ...

SO i walked over like the matrix and said "inhibit This" and pulled it .

i then ran and magic button :icon44:

and she fired right over ..right way alot faster and clearner sounding than the Na motor. after some ajusting she should run good ....

idles is strong and head sounds real good no knocking or wired sounds from the block or turbo .all in all this was funny but ITS alot of time and money ...

 

UPDATE

went out and she fired up strong ....idle is great

can not rev past 2000 something , without it cuting out ? vac leak?

 

runs.jpg

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thanks man ...

 

on the little box next to the coil .. i had that black and white striped wire

pluged into the resitor on there then grounded that resitor was ran to the na harnees ....

it was wrong ..

it would blow my fuel pump realy fuseable link everytime i turned the key on ..after it shorted out that ground i figured it out .wierd the na car harness is just a little differnty setup ....

ya something up with vac stuff .

i tryed hooking and unhooking the turbo vac valves box .No change .

i think she aprking right for sure and the injectors are fireing right for sure .i turned the timeing back to 10 deg off top dead .using a timing lite .

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two of those extra wires to the transmission are probably the neutral/park start switch. It is a switch that is only grounded when the automatic tranny is in park or neutral. Since you have a manual, these two wires can be permanently connected together. (or if you mess with inhibitor relay, like you said, that probably took care of it, too!)

 

looking good btw

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oh ya, your engine looks real nice. Good engine compartment too.

 

Well, I had a known bad turbo AFM and I swapped it on one time to see what it did. It had a slight stumble and at idle and then wouldn't rev past about 2200 rpm. Maybe you should dissasemble the AFM and carefully clean off the front and back of all the boards inside.

 

I don't think the TPS is a problem in this case... I mean, just make sure the connector is clean and dry but I'm sure it already is. Fuel pressure should be 32 at idle.

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happy birthday TO me .!

 

going to do some tuning ...crank angle sensor .we ajusted it side to side but not up and down iam going to read the book and see if its right or not. they aren't that greatest z parts ..iam looking for a 82 or 83 dissy ..

just havnt had any luck i bid on one but was out bid right way .

for sure iam going mess with the afm ..i have it mounted and little wierd so iam forsure messing around with it .

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I meant to ask you about your air/fuel guage.

I hooked mine up and it never has worked. When I connected my new O2 sensor I crimped on a pair of stock ZX connections. One I hooked the ECU to and the other I plugged the gauge into. If that doesn't work for the gauge then how could it work for the ECU?

the last little light by the rich section stays on solid no matter what... even with the signal wire unplugged. It was that way for a couple weeks and now the gauge is just dead. Do you think I have a faulty gauge?

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ya mine is hooked in the same way yours is ...it was working fine on the NA motor.....i hooked it in the same way as befor .i was wonderig if mine was hooked up right .....or mabe just this ecu signal is a little slower .i dont know .mabe your gauge is broke .mine doesnt swing back and forth untell iam driving ..on warm up it ,as the car getts hotter the spot will change .its only when i drive that is starts swing....i had three na ecu's

when i would switch one out i would always hook my gauge up ..each ecu actted a little differnt from the other ...mabe turbo ecu's each act differntly when is comes to the pluse they send out .

 

 

 

Miss fire . crankangle piece of poop sensor .i hate timeing .

she starts and idles so good .but if i put load on her she starts missfireing ..i

i palyed with the stupied dissy and the crankangle sensor its a little better but not right .i was going to clean the afm as u said but ....

i had a oil problem, i had to work out frist.

mine line popped off ,to the oil cooler ..

when i was reving her ..i had oil everywhere :ugg: . had to get some fittings pressed on to the lines...What a mess That wAs .all better now but man oil everywhere right after i got her all clean .so lame .

so ya going to clean the afm and every connection .and see if that makes it better ..then go back to messing with the crank angle. ..there is a few things i wanted to know about .

 

#1 o2 sensor ..are they the same for TURBO as THE Na one .

iam using this na one i bought .the turbo one was gone when i got my motor .

 

#2 fuel pump iam still using the stock NA one that came with my car .

should i fined a turbo one or are they the same .

also iam using phyton injectors .they all are ticking and sounding like

there working great .. But i think there for NA z motors .

 

#3 head temp sensor.... iam useing the turbo one now , but i have a new one that i got for the na .can i switch it or is the signal differnt ?

 

there a few more but gray needs help putting the motor back into the AE.... i will be back

 

 

 

 

an hour or two later .......

 

i think i just figured out the problem ....

i messed my crank angle sensor and dissy turning it back and forth with no change on the timeing light hmhmhmhm

gray was watching my fuel ratio gauge it was running in the second rich bar at idle..

when reved the guage would drop from rich to leannnnnnnnnn .popopopopopopp .

i didnt see this befor .iam mind mind less stoner sometimes.lololol

....i dont think my injectors arent giving the motor the right fuel ratio .

along with my fuel pump?

SO i turned up my fuel presser ragulator to 40psi and it got alot better ...went for a drive and i could get alittle more rpm's with way less popping .....came back and turned it to 50psi ....went for a drive and i got her to 4000rpm with out it cutting out ...fuel.......

Turbo's need more of it ...

as soon as i start pushing boost it starts to stuggle and chop .....

so injectors and fuel pump ARE on the top of my list .......

..i thought it was spark ...but WITH just putting more fuel in the rail all the popping went away when reved not under load ... when the motor is underload its way worse .

for sure its not vacum becuase she is running 20 to 23 under 0

gray said and

i qoute .."it sounds like a skyline when she starts to spoll "

right at about 2800rpm .you start to here it ..its like a whistle ...

really though with the hybrid garrett turbo , tin saab down pipe and the way the pipe is ran under the drivers seatturbosawp020.jpg it does have a pretty awsome sound i want to here it at like 5300 rpm :eek:.

there is still lots to do to get it to that point ...and many things to figure out .

i dont think my gauge is faulty after this discovery .

so if yours isnt reading and just sitting still then i bet its toast.....

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pulled afm apart this eveing ...cleaned it and give the swipe arm a new spot to swipe ..noticed that the air fuel screw was set all the way in on the lean setting ..so i backed that out and its much better ..still not the right amount of fuel but better .... i can drive it , as long as i dont start stepping on her she wont buck or kick ..as soon as hit the boost zone its starts cutting out.

i if i drive carefully and watch the air fuel gauge ...

its fine but if to much gas is given guage drops to lean and then it will buck or kick ..

still wondering on that o2 sensor ? is its differnt from na to turbo ?

if it is i will go get one and try and see if that fixes it .

but iam pretty sure i need turbo injectors and fuel pump....

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the main weak link in the NA efi I think would be in the fuel pump. The turbo injectors are supposed to be good for 250hp and that would put the NA injectors around 200hp since they're not THAT much smaller. With the NA injectors you'd just be running a bit lean on the top end once you maxed out the injectors, not just suddenly cutting out under boost.

 

I'd say it's the afm still, but if the a/f ratio is good at lower throttle then it's probly something else. Hmm, could it still be a vacuume issue? I'm just throwing out ideas.

 

I could understand it possible being the fuel pump though, seeing as they're different units (at least from first hand experience).

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Guest alex280z

i bought a 1978 280z runs perfect only 78,000 miles, started my turbo swap with a t3/t4 turbo, RC 1000cc low imp. fuel injectors, 65mm throttle body, solid lifter p90, crane cam camshaft/valve springs, milled flywheel with zoom stage 2 clutch, cant wait to see the outcome

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O2 sensor is the same and the head temp sensors are the same.

 

I think the injectors are a big deal. First of all, the ECU thinks they flow more so at any given time frame they are open the turbo injectors will flow out more fuel than NA ones... not just at peak output.

 

Your problem sounds like a boost leak. Do you smell fuel after you get into boost and hear it pop? I did, and when I would enrichen the mixture it seemed to help but I was just dumping more fuel into a leaking pressurized manifold. I had several leaks. One on all the hoses on top of the intake which I don't think you have, one in the lines goines to or from the carbon canister. I got rid of all of that. And the third at the base of the injectors. Did you get new O-rings for your injectors? Do you have pics of how you mounted them?

 

so ya, I think I'll return my A/F gauge.

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i thought it was a vacum leak at frist but iam running 20 to 21 under 0 on the vac gauge.....

 

the na fuel pump and the turbo fuel pump push the same max flow rate ...

68 psi max .

turbo or na ..i had my homie at the parts store look this up ..they sell you the same part for NA or turbo ...

i also looked this up in hayness . "68 max psi"............

with my fpr , i can set it to whatever psi i want to , so it will bring up as much fuel to the rail as i want ...i cant get it passed the 68psi mark you can tell thats all the the pump can take and starts to flutter right about the 61 psi mark.

running at 50psi now and its working like a champ ..but no matter how much fuel you put in the rail .the injectors will only flow to there 200cc max limit .

 

 

afm SEEMS to be working good ..when i turned the ajuster screw out i could here the change in the idle , after it settled .......my car wont start without it being pluged in ..

 

it realy acts like its the flow rate ....great idle and air fuel gauge sits in idel zone ..rev it even just a little and the gauage drops to lean ...rev it to much and the gauge goes lean to the point where it drops off and there is no reading ...let it up and it comes right back ...

like a said i can drive it

if i drive lite and dont step down ...

 

stock flow rate for Na injectors = 200cc turbo's injectors flow rate = 280cc

that is a big diff... for sure iam getting injectors frist ;)

 

injectors001.jpg

 

injectors002.jpg

 

my hayness book did not have the injector wire color code ..i was very carefull when switching the wires around and they way it idles so clean i dought i got it wrong .but if anyone has the injector color code for 1981 cars then please post it up .

there is not alot of posting done for the 81 ..not alot of them left ? or just not alot poeple willing to post up about it....hmhmhmm .there is a nice post on the z31 ecu swap for 81 ...

thanks to afshin and 280z turbo ...

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Thanks B

 

Tryed to weld up a spot nere my test pipe ..i think iam going to weld and new piece in there and get rid of the leaky test pipe crapper :ugg:

 

turned the afm screw out more and it does seem better .

also swaped Tps sensors ..i think it was better ....... than the one that i took off

was really old looking on the back side .

 

tryed to tighten my ex manifold bolts but burnt my hand ..going to come back to that one when she's cold..........

seems like i have a little leak on one or two off the manifold blots ...not sure witch one mabe #three

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I think the reason there isn't much info on the 280ZX on this board (or on the net) is due to the lack of interest in them. The S130 and the Z31 aren't very popular within any crowd. The engine swap hybrid types like the S30 cars for thier weight and the modern crowd likes the Z32 for it's touring characteristics.

 

But people like us are slowly changing that. The S130 seems to be gaining some popularity just in the time I've been a member here, so the future is looking bright for our cars.

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ya sence i got mine like five other people in this town got one ....more and more i see them around ...there is a white 1978 fully msa kitted 2+2 ..

he is a old guy...i seen him and pulled up next to him at a light right befor i did the swap ..

he gave the big tumbs up as i kicked it out around this corner ...

i want to kick out again .......

 

 

ANYONE have any Turbo injectors they want to trade for a header ..

s%$! bring me injectors and you pretty much could have any parts you want...

i got plently .....Anyone need a Na ecu i got three that work great .

two heads a n47 and a p79 . a full set of nice stock six spoke rims and tires .

if anyone one wants them or needs them I will trade for ...

a SET of turbo injectors .or sell for REAL cheap ..

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lets see .got my bov this moring ..its pretty cheap one but it doesnt leak so i guess iam stoked ...i switched drop restors boxs late last night ...

 

little bits of change each one making it better and better ...Untell shes just right .

injectors.jpg

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