Zlovemachine Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 Hello All, I need some options to get me too 350rwhp on pump gas the cheapest. Would only head work do it Would only Stroker bottom end do it Would only Stand alone do it How about just a bigger turbo would I have to mix and match 2 or 3 of these or do all four in order to achieve this type of horsepower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismopick Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 Using the SEARCH helps ( http://forums.hybridz.org/search.php ). There's only about 5 billion threads about building a high hp L28ET We'd all love to type up a huge list of possible mods... but since it's all been typed 5 billion times before, there's really no need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rztmartini Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 head work, turbo, and standalone...bingo... (thats all you had to say nismo! lol) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 Hello All' date='[/color'] I need some options to get me too 350rwhp on pump gas the cheapest. A) Would only head work do it Would only Stroker bottom end do it C )Would only Stand alone do it D) How about just a bigger turbo would I have to mix and match 2 or 3 of these or do all four in order to achieve this type of horsepower. Actually - it would be: E) All of the above - and then some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BayAreaZT Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 Well Garrett just made 418rwhp with the stock head so based on your sig, C) plus E) IC and maybe F) methanol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 Seeing as garrett just made it to 418 without headwork with methanol injection I'd think mild headwork should allow you to get to 350 without the methanol. You definately need standalone or some DIY work converting over to Z31 efi with a modified ECU tune. I personally wouldn't put that much power through a stock motor, but i'm paranoid about these things. I personally believe in the rule of thumb that if you want a 400hp engine to last 200k you need to build the bottom end for 800hp. All this info and more is waiting for you in the search feature. The only motor with more info on this site is the SBC conversion, but rest assured there's lots of info on the L motors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slownrusty Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 Standalone and a bigger turbo is all you need. Trust me on that! Thats why they call me Slow AND Rusty~ Yasin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildky Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 the bigger turbo is a must for 300 or more hp, the bigger injectors are also needed for anything over 275 ish whp and to acurately control the bigger injectors a stand alone is helpful but not needed, but highly recomended Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernardd Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 Wouldn't the cheapest be to add nitrous? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismopick Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 Wouldn't the cheapest be to add nitrous? If you're a ricer.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 BTW, the stock turbo injectors are only good for around 255WHP using the stock FPR. As I have said in the previous posts, you can get to 325WHP without any boring, stroking, or head work. This was at 13psi. So if you run 15-18psi, you might get the extra 50HP. All you need is an L28ET in good condition, a metal head gasket, fresh valve job and timing set if needed. That is it. The other stuff you will need: - Engine managment - T3/T4 turbo with stage 3 turbine and T04E housing - Intercooler - 380cc/min or bigger injectors - Higher output fuel pump ( I like the MSD pumps, good for 500HP) - 3" exhaust - Time on the dyno Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zlovemachine Posted September 7, 2006 Author Share Posted September 7, 2006 BTW' date=' the stock turbo injectors are only good for around 255WHP using the stock FPR.[/color'] As I have said in the previous posts, you can get to 325WHP without any boring, stroking, or head work. This was at 13psi. So if you run 15-18psi, you might get the extra 50HP. All you need is an L28ET in good condition, a metal head gasket, fresh valve job and timing set if needed. That is it. The other stuff you will need: - Engine managment - T3/T4 turbo with stage 3 turbine and T04E housing - Intercooler - 380cc/min or bigger injectors - Higher output fuel pump ( I like the MSD pumps, good for 500HP) - 3" exhaust - Time on the dyno Z-ya are you saying with the stock block I can achieve 325whp, but I would need everything listed above? As of now I have: - T3/T4 turbo with stage 3 turbine fitted in stock rear housing and T04E front housing - Intercooler 12x24x3 (3†intercooler Piping) - Higher output fuel pump (MSD pumps, good for 500HP) - 3" exhaust (crush bend) - RRFPR (able to rate fuel pressure) - 3†Weber Throttlebody - High compression pistions (stock Flat Tops) How much more do i need to achieve numbers like the ones you said Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismopick Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 How much more do i need to achieve numbers like the ones you said It has been said several times in this thread: YOU NEED BIGGER INJECTORS YOU NEED AN AFTERMARKET OR UPGRADED ECU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 personally believe in the rule of thumb that if you want a 400hp engine to last 200k you need to build the bottom end for 800hp. According to the equation in Corky Bell's book to go from 400hp to 800hp increases the forces on piston/rod/crank by around 18-20%(I think that was for a V8). So you saying the rule of thumb is to build the bottom end about 20% stronger than you need? just razzin you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 it's cool moby. I'm just stating that 'I' like to overbuild things as I stated. Why build a bottom end and then run it at 100%? Any motor that's reemed all the time will wear down quicker, especially if it's at it's limits. If you simply overbuild and treat it nice a motor can widthstand high HP numbers for a long time wich means your investment lasts longer, thus actually saving you money in the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zlovemachine Posted September 8, 2006 Author Share Posted September 8, 2006 You are very funny NISMOPICK. I understand that already, but since I have a rise rate fuel regular and new injectors I might as well us them. I can easily raise fuel pressure and turn the stock injectors into 380cc injectors and keep the stock ECU. That way I can save a ton of money rather then on other set of injectors and stand alone a laptop, programmer and dyno time. This is an extremely large cost. I don't know about you but I can spend a ton of money like that. At the same time this would be a daily driver on pump gas! Z-ya do you have anything else to add, I trust you more than the nosepicker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
510six Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 I would like to know what is wrong with nitrous ?.Done right a N20 system on a turbo motor can make seriously impressive horepower gains.A 120hp to the wheels shot turned into an over 200rwh shot on a turbo motor in my 10 sec street driven car.Plus you really can`t imagine how fast a turbo will spool with a shot of N20 until you experience it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 Nos = On or off power that runs out Anyone who thinks nos is a reliable power source to depend on probly hasn't spent any time at the track Please don't take offtence tothis 510six, beucase I think nitrous is perfectly fine, it shoud just be used as a way to reach a desired HP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 Nope, the only nose I'll be picking is mine. If you just increasing the flow rate of the injectors, and add an adjustable RR FPR, you can get a decent full power tune. Chances are though that your idle and cruising mixture will be off, so your drivability will suffer. Either way, you will need to pay for dyno time. Also, with the AFM still in there, I don't think you will get to the 325HP number. The right way to do it is in my previous post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zlovemachine Posted September 8, 2006 Author Share Posted September 8, 2006 Nos = On or off power that runs out Anyone who thinks nos is a reliable power source to depend on probly hasn't spent any time at the track Please don't take offtence tothis 510six' date=' beucase I think nitrous is perfectly fine, it shoud just be used as a way to reach a desired HP.[/color'] Please don't take offence to this Gollum, because I think NOS is a very reliable power source. Who cares if it is a on and off power that runs out, it’s sorta like gas but perfect to run a sleeper. I think I just might go NOS, because it would be the perfect way to get rid of turbo lag indefinitely and Keep drivability. I think I even have a nos bottle laying around from my V8Z that I never got around to hooking up. Hey thanks for reminding me!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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