2003z Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 In Bryan Little's website, he says "TIP: On L28 heads you can install a 8mm x 1.25 45mm long stud in EVERY intake/exhaust bolt hole. This makes tightening the intake and header easy, as the studs allow you to really torque down without fear of stripping out the holes. Recommended, I've used them for years" Does anyone have a source for these studs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2003z Posted October 5, 2006 Author Share Posted October 5, 2006 to answer my own question, arp makes them in sets of 4, 8, 10 and 16. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 to answer my own question, arp makes them in sets of 4, 8, 10 and 16. Hey Mike, do you plan on buying any from ARP? If so, do you have the part#'s, I'd like to get enough to do my rb head... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2003z Posted October 5, 2006 Author Share Posted October 5, 2006 Joel, your oil pan came out beautiful!!!! Did you make it yourself? The workmanship is awesome. Anyway, the 10 stud set is around $80, available from Jegs and several other places, part number 400-8023 . The 16 piece is around 130 and is 400-8033 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 Joel, your oil pan came out beautiful!!!! Did you make it yourself? The workmanship is awesome. Anyway, the 10 stud set is around $80, available from Jegs and several other places, part number 400-8023 . The 16 piece is around 130 and is 400-8033 Thanks !! can you snap a pic to show it off?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2003z Posted October 5, 2006 Author Share Posted October 5, 2006 Thanks !! can you snap a pic to show it off?? I wish I would have, but as soon as it cooled, I had my wife pack and ship it. I had to drop my cylinder head off on the other side of town and wanted to beat traffic. Post some pics when you get it friday. It really did come out nice though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 Sounds good... thanks, will do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rztmartini Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 those are just the studs for the intake/exhuast side right? i am currently disassebling my 83 ZXT and all those are bolts, not studs like the other heads i have dissassebled. would it be best to get new studs or bolts that came with it origionally? or were they replaced by the p/o? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoustonZ Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 I could supply some nice black oxide coated studs for $35/8. Anyone interested? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 I would talk to pallnet on zcar.com. He has some nice studs for the intake and exhaust. I used them on my ZX when I did the manifold gasket. They worked perfectly and came with brass nuts so they don't rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alabamaman882 Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 for what is worth the ford 5.4 exhaust studs work, they are 8mm, that is what i used for my 4 barrel swap, the part # is -w703902-s403 for what appears to be copper or -n811313-s431 for just regular metal studs and if i remember correctly they are a little longer than the stock nissan studs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2003z Posted October 5, 2006 Author Share Posted October 5, 2006 those are just the studs for the intake/exhuast side right? i am currently disassebling my 83 ZXT and all those are bolts, not studs like the other heads i have dissassebled. would it be best to get new studs or bolts that came with it origionally? or were they replaced by the p/o? yes, it is recommended to replace the bolts with studs for better sealing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2126 Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 You'll be hard pressed to beat the quality and strength of ARP studs. I installed a set of their SS studs (for the int/exh manifolds) on my N42. These studs are like jewelry....plus, on one end of the stud they provide a recessed hex drive for easy installation. Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenmonster80 Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 I got my studs from the mom/pop auto parts store. Definitely worked out great....Highly reccommended Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aarang Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 I got my exhaust/intake studs from the local Ace hardware. I used stainless nuts. Also, I would recomend putting anti-sieze on them before installation, easier to get them out if they break! Aaron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2003z Posted October 5, 2006 Author Share Posted October 5, 2006 now I'm torn. Inexpensive ones from Ford or the ARP's? I'm already spending more than I would have liked, the while-I'm-at-its are killing me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Bowen Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 I can't emphasize enough to use antiseize on any exhaust hardware or any stressed bolt like the head bolts. You will find that even after 5 years on the exhaust, the bolts come off like they were put on yesterday. I used it on every bolt on my formula ford, and just about every bolt on my road cars too. I've got a exhaust manifold and down pipe on my N/A with 381K on it now, and 10 years and 100K miles later, I just took them off and it was easier than just about any other bolt on the engine. Also, remember to torque down the bolts about 10% less since the threads are lubricated. It's too cheap not to use. Also, smearing a very small amount on the entire bolt/studs used on the super hot exhaust manifold will prevent them from rusting more than just a touch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 I have the ARP studs. Mine were only $110 from Summit but that was 3 years ago. And they are awesome. But they were special ordered since ARP had just introduced them so I had no price until the order arrived. I don't know that I would have bought them had I known in advance. But they do look cool. The L series motor has 17 studs, though. I left the Nissan one underneath the water neck since you can't see it from most directions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 Post some pics when you get it friday. It really did come out nice though. Sure did turn out nice Mike. Hey guys, if you need some parts powdercoated, 2003z (Mike) can hook you up with some good quaility powdercoating here>>www.thepowdercoater.com Here is my custom Thagard rb26dett alum oil pan click to enlarge; Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pallnet Posted October 15, 2006 Share Posted October 15, 2006 My exhaust stud kit. This kit is one of my best sellers. This kit is comprised of 11 10.9 grade exhaust studs with a knuckle in the center to stop the stud from burying itself in the head and a nipple on the tip that is hex keyed to ease the installation of the stud and to help start the specialized nuts. The 11 specialized nuts that come with the kit are copper coated to resist corrosion and for ease of installation. They are flanged for a larger surface contact area and pinched for a secure lock that will not vibrate loose. The quality is not skimped in any way so weigh in the price and it can't be beat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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