JustinOlson Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 It looks like the konis with steel sleeves are $850 per strut. Ouch. http://www.koniracing.com/2817.html http://www.koni.com/_racing/_damper_series/2817/2817_introduc.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datman Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 On mine larger OD tube was used and machined down to fit in the hub. My dampers are aluminium so are probaby a bit larger diameter than steel ones. The dampers fit down to the bottom of the tube/hub. Stainless tubes could be made also Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavy85 Posted August 23, 2006 Author Share Posted August 23, 2006 Cameron, which strut insert are you refering to? 8610-1437RACE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted August 25, 2006 Share Posted August 25, 2006 Well, I just finished the insertion of the 8610 into the 240Z tube, and yes it was initially a tight (impossibly tight) fit. heavy85: "and I found there is the strut number stamped near the bottom of the strut that is raised a bit and catches as it goes in and needs to be knocked down." After rolling the 8610 body around through a caliper to measure diameter, I found the body was very consistant in diameter at about 1.72" (Just what Koni told me), BUT, at the bottom of the strut where the part number and identification stamping was, the diameter would jump up to about 1.74 to 1.75 (which is the ID of my tube). Needless to say, I couldn't get the insert beyond an inch or so into the tube. So I filed (with a course file) the paint and some of the high spots down on the case where the stamping was to get it down to where the strut would now slide down into the tube (with a little bit of a push). If the Koni size is correct for the 8611 on the OD, there is no way it would fit into my tubes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted August 26, 2006 Share Posted August 26, 2006 Lots of work with a 36 grit flap and/or drum sander on the inside of the strut tube will make the 8611 fit. When I'm impatient, I take a 1" OD carbide bit and chatter away... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driftz240 Posted August 29, 2006 Share Posted August 29, 2006 i used a brake cyl hone to hone the crud and rust out of my casings... worked like a champ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFancypants Posted September 1, 2006 Share Posted September 1, 2006 I guess I'll pop my HybridZ cherry with this post... I recently became the proud owner of a clean, straight, rust-free 260Z. The ultimate goal will be a turbo SR20 powerplant, but for now the first order of business will be the ES HyperFlex kit, followed by a new suspension. My search for info on this subject brought me here... Ive been through lowering springs and coilover setups on other cars, so I know that I won't be satisfied with anything less than coilovers in the Z. I have experience with GC's stuff, and learned the importance of a proper damper for high rate springs (or rather, how I didnt like GC's on KYB AGX struts). My best experience by far was with the Tein SS setup on my turbo G20, probably because Tein did their homework to match the right spring rate to their damper for that specific application. Hence the issue... there is no out of the box setup for the 260Z, except for ArizonaZCar's setup. Aside from its incredible good looks, it also seems to be a very good value. If you add up the cost of GC's, springs, Tokico Illuminas, and 4 camber plates, youre pretty much at the cost of the AZC setup. So my question is... is there any point going with anything else just based on value for the price? The AZC dampers look to be only single-adjustable. Im not too concerned about double-adjustability as long as they'll suit something like 200/250 street rates and possibly 300/350 track rates. Does anyone have experience with these rates on this setup? How is the noise and performance in different street/race scenarios? I noticed someone commented about the adjustment knob requiring the attachment of a fuel hose and that if it became disconnected you'd be screwed. Since the shock threads into the threaded collar, you can just disassemble the setup and unscrew the shock from the collar. It would be inconvenient, but not the end of the world. This threading of the shock into the weld-in collar is another major plus of the AZC setup over other inserts with GC's, since you can keep travel up as you lower the car. Last, does the AZC have needle bearings on the front? I would think the spherical bearing would turn fine on its own, but GC has something on their website about a needle bearing taking stress off the spherical bearing. Anyways, sorry to babble on... CheerZ, Greg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted September 1, 2006 Share Posted September 1, 2006 Well, there's my "out of the box" setup: http://www.betamotorsports.com/products/240StrutKit.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed260Z Posted September 3, 2006 Share Posted September 3, 2006 I've been of the board for a while, since my new job has me so busy I can barly scratch my but, never mind look @ my Z. Arizona has a sweet new set up http://www.arizonazcar.com/coil.html . It's worth a look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 Anyone have experience with a track car and Arizona Z car suspension pieces. They "look" nice, but I'm wondering if all of their features really add up to a solid handling S30. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smoorenc Posted October 13, 2006 Share Posted October 13, 2006 I am interested in the Arizona Z set up also. I am having a LS1 put in by Speed Design, Inc and I will need to go to larger tires. So coil overs are needed to beable to fit 245's in to the wheel well. Hopefully someone out there has experience with the Arizona Z product. This is not to be used for only racing, also for every day driving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted October 15, 2006 Share Posted October 15, 2006 The AZC stuff is on par with most of the other setups out there... It's not just "looks", but functional. Mark Icard (Mark here) and John Taylor (jt1) both use stuff from AZC if memory serves me... I've had some of the AZC stuff in house and installed it... It works fine. That said, JohnC. sells to notch stuff to, as does Ross at Modern Motorsports. So do your homework, ask those I mention above and others who will likely chime in, and go from there... Mike 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted November 18, 2006 Share Posted November 18, 2006 Just orderd my 8610 Races thru Shocks.com... They should be here on the 29th of November. Cost was $159 each... I have also decided to forego the hassles of "designing" a new version of my own rear control arm. I'll buy the Arizona Zcar control arm for the rear and use their Toe adjustment primarily. I plan to continue running my own design upfront, along with a modified version of myTC rods. I'll also be running camber plates at all four corners. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted November 20, 2006 Share Posted November 20, 2006 I changed the title of this thread this morning to make it easier to find. Also putting it in the FAQ section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zdave Posted February 18, 2008 Share Posted February 18, 2008 I will try to get a p/n for a 280 (52mm x 1.5) nut at a later date. I have just finished reading through this entire thread (I agree with several of the posters that this is the best thread I have ever read about Z-cars), but I did not see where anyone ever came up with a part number for the 280Z gland nut. Is there any new info out there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1ghtymaxXx Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 So I'll be building a set of coilovers this winter and found this thread very helpful, though the bulk of the info here is over 8 years old, perhaps some new products have entered the market? Anyways the car is a 1977 280Z, the plan is to build it for autocross and spirited coastal road driving. Our roads and autocross venues are pretty rough and bumpy, and since it won't be a track car, I'll be shooting for a lower spring rate, I'm thing around 200lb/in, but if I can find out the rates of the Eibach pro-kit springs currently on the car, I'd have a better idea of where I'd want to be (only a bit stiffer than it is now). I was originally thinking of going with Koni 8610's, but after reading this thread it seems they're a bit heavy for my target spring rate. Illuminas now seem like they may be ideal and it is looking like they should be available again in the coming months, also it saves breaking out the abrasives to make the Konis fit. Are there other options well suited to springs around the 200lb range, what about affordable threaded body dampers? Lastly, will using the thicker 280Z strut tubes cause any issues. I presume strut cartridges are interchangeable between early and late S30 struts? Are gland nuts the same or will I run into trouble sourcing them? Just a bit of background on the car, It's mainly stock at the moment with, Eibach Pro Kit Springs, Tokico Blue struts, Poly Bushings, ST 25/19mm sway bars, LSD. Future plans include an L28ET that has been waiting for years to go in, modest weight reduction (fiberglass bumpers this winter, CF hood down the road, lighter seats). I was planning on going with weld in camber plates, but am now leaning more towards the biscuit type to avoid/postpone cutting up the car. Adjustable control arms and TC rods should eventually make their way on to the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b18crx Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 If tokicos still aren't available, I wouldn't hold my breath. I ordered a set back in February and after waiting til august, I finally ordered some kyb's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zzzzz Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 Koni 8610 s fit perfect in 280 struts - drop right in - remember the spacer below rear inserts - bought mine from Ground Control - along with their coil over it - nothing but good things to say about the support and service - also received glandnuts from them. Good luck with your project, from the Left Coast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1ghtymaxXx Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 (edited) Koni 8610 s fit perfect in 280 struts - drop right in - remember the spacer below rear inserts - bought mine from Ground Control - along with their coil over it - nothing but good things to say about the support and service - also received glandnuts from them. Good luck with your project, from the Left Coast. Good to know! I know the 280Z struts have a larger outer diameter, but I wasn't sure how the inner diamter differs, and how it relates to strut cartridge fitting. If the same diameter strut cartridge is used in the two different diameter housings, then I presume the gland nut is responsible for centering the cartridge in the strut housing at the top? Does that mean the bottom spacer takes up the difference in diameters at the bottom, as well as the difference in length. Any chance you have pics of your spacers, or any of your build for that matter? +1 for Ground Control. They were happy to sponsor our Targa Newfoundland rally Evo III. They came on board a month before the rally started. I ended up on a first name basis with their development guy in creating a custom set of coilovers. Unfortunately an engine failure in the prologue stage of the rally meant we were unable to compete with that car in the week long event, but we've already began discussing improvements based on our experience. Edited December 2, 2013 by m1ghtymaxXx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Duncan Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 (edited) Going with the Bilstein Sport cartridge insert for the 280Z Chumpcar. These things are really heavy duty as evidenced by the chrome shaft being about twice the diameter of stock. old # P30-0032, new # 34-184530. This is a VW insert It's a smaller outer diameter at 1.5" so clearance is no problem. the average price is about $150 ea but I found them at 2 places on the East coast for $135. I got them HERE These came with a blue dust boot and according to the instructions you don't need a bump stop because it's built in internally. Also these came with two gland nuts each with included seal, one has an internal thread and the other is external thread, but they are a smaller (VW) thread. What's really neat though is these two gland nuts screw into each other. So instead of sectioning the strut housing I'm just going to cut two inches off the top and weld the internally threaded gland nut on the top. Then just use the supplied external thread nut to hold the insert. First though I've taken the seal out of the internal thread gland nut (being careful to save it without damage) and opened up the inside bore step where it's too small to fit over the cartridge. In addition the internal thread nut has a outer step on it that fits down inside the housing and a larger diameter step that stops it from going inside. So it's almost like made for it. So this solves two problems. First it's much easier to just weld the internal gland nut on top of the cut off strut than it is to section the strut housing and keep it aligned. Second there's no need to source a gland nut that fits the stock thread and is a small enough I.D. to hold the smaller dia insert. The lower spacer is going to need an O.D. near the 1.7" of the housing and an I.D. smaller than the 1.5" of the insert. Plus it will need a recess to hold the insert centered. Nothing too hard on a small lathe, best to use some aluminum tube. Not going to change the valving at first, just run it and see what happens. Edited May 21, 2014 by Chris Duncan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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