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Z32 trans-to-L6 block, Version 2.


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I am planning a Z32 tranny install as well. Would it make sense to remove the existing tranny cross member mount, section it, and re-install it at a more rearward location so that it aligns properly? I know this would be a pain drilling out all those spot welds but it looks to me like it could be moved rearward by 2-3 inches or so. If I decide to do this, now is the time while my shell is on the rotisserie.

TIA

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1_fast_Z - Using the Z32 slave works a lot better for a start if your not already using it. The inlet is on top instead of the bottom. I was able to make my lines work fine, but you may need to grab a slightly longer flex line from autozone or something. I believe Garret used a 240sx line of some sort I i can remember correctly.

 

NC_Chris - Yes, But I think you might be just as well off cutting it out and building all new mounts. I would have done this if I had more time, i was in a crunch to get to SEZ.

 

It may be even easier still to design a cross member that bolts to the bottom of your floor pan... makes servicing it much easier, just add reinforcements to the floor.

 

Just some ideas.

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I just finished a swap for a fellow hybridZ'r in his super nice 280z. I had a buddy help me and we managed to finish the swap in one day. Just wanted to share a few tip with yall:

 

1. We we able to reuse the factory crossmember and mount, just cut the factory mounts off the transmission tunel and weld a reinforcement plate and ears a little farther back.

 

2. Reuse the L28 Throwout bearing AND COLLAR. Use the beefier z32 clutch fork.

 

3. Garrett's Driveshaft dimensions have worked perfect for both 240z's and 280z's. However make sure you order the right diff flange from powertrain industries.. There are two different bolt pattern, one is the square type flange the other is the beefier 300zx LSD flange.

 

Here are a few pictures of the Shifter relocater I made. This was pretty easy to make (Around 2 hours) and very cheap. Its just made from 3/4" Mild steel square tube.

 

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Nice comparison of the gear box sizes!!

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Mark's Super nice car, I must say I admire his color scheme!!

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On the speed sensor issue, is this a bolt-in speed sensor similar to the KA Tranny? I know on the KA Tranny it's a simple substitution of the gear assembly to make it back to a mechanical speedometer.

 

I can't tell from the photos here which type of sensor it is, I'lll take a look next time in the boneyard and see if I can decipher something. IMO I like the e-speedo better as it's easy to recalibrate to accomodate tire and wheel changes. But stock look is nice up in the dash for some, I suppose.

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I just gutted a Z32 cluster I found at a junk yard. I pulled the speedo and tach and test wired up the speedo for now. It works like a charm. The speedo and tach boards are small enough to fit into the stock gauge housings. Now that I know it works, I am going to install the speedo and tach into my stock gauge housings.

 

I am trying to figure out a way to retain the Z32 odometer and trip meter though.

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I just gutted a Z32 cluster I found at a junk yard. I pulled the speedo and tach and test wired up the speedo for now. It works like a charm. The speedo and tach boards are small enough to fit into the stock gauge housings. Now that I know it works, I am going to install the speedo and tach into my stock gauge housings.

 

I am trying to figure out a way to retain the Z32 odometer and trip meter though.

 

Any chance at managing to maintain a stockish look? Call me childish, but I am sorta in love with the typeface and visual appearance of the gauges from 70-76.. with a decided preference for 74-76 equipment. (Not too particular, am I?:roll:)

 

Even if it would take the production of a custom face for the gauge due to "clock" differences, it should be do-able.. but is there any chance that they line up so you can just use either face on the Z32 gauge?

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Daeron, I fully intend to use the original face plates because I, too, really appreciate the look and feel of the original gauges. The issue I am facing right now is retaining the high beam indicator and turn signals due to the relative location of the circuit board on the Z32 gauges. Also, the speedo is every so slightly different.

 

My 1977 speedo goes from 10 to 160 mph and sweeps an arc around 1600 degrees or so. The Z32 speedo goes from 0 to 160 and sweeps around 150 degrees.

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