hawaiiz Posted May 14, 2007 Share Posted May 14, 2007 Aloha All - I just fiannly found a z worthy of a restore, very few left out here on the big island of Hawaii. Anyways it has lots of problems but the one I working on now is the passenger rear wheel beaings. I happen to have some parts cars and pulled the whole stut mount assembly (brakes, bearings, spring etc) I then clamped it to a bench vise, removed the "transverse link and lock nut" and with some wd40 and large punch out came the "spindle" the long rod with treads on both sides. Great I said to my self, no problem. And proceeded to pull the same parts from my new Z. All went well untill getting out the "spindle" It wont budge and Ive beat the crap out of it. Any Ideas Guys. Thanks in advanced. Cruzinit. PS I played with the old spindle and it appears the lock nut slighty deforms the spindle, i filed i bit around the locknut portion of the spindle and now the old one slides in and out very nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted May 14, 2007 Share Posted May 14, 2007 Soaking it in penetrating oil or WD-40 for a few days has shown to be effective. The ability to pull it out rather than pound it out is an advantage as well, but you'll need one of the coveted spindle pin pullers to do this (eBay or a search will help you find one). Pounding the end tends to swell that end, tightening it in the bore the more you pound on it, so you may be defeating your own efforts. Your observation that the locking pin deforms the pin is not an uncommon one, and an issue that does aggravate the removal of the spindle pin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TeamNissan Posted May 14, 2007 Share Posted May 14, 2007 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114142&highlight=spindle+puller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFancypants Posted May 14, 2007 Share Posted May 14, 2007 I used a propane torch, PB blaster, and a 5 lb sledge, working the spindle pin back and forth until I could pound it out all the way in one direction. You don't want to wail on it too much in one direction if it is bound up or you will mushroom the pin and never get it out. A puller is probably the best way to go but brute force is the only way to really appreciate the job - Greg - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawaiiz Posted May 14, 2007 Author Share Posted May 14, 2007 Thanks Guys for all the input. Since its not my daily driver Ive decided to leave it on jacks just put new bearings in the existing hub, and throw a few more hundred in it while Im at it, bushings, struts, cv u-joints, clutch slave etc, oh yea and Tires, ouch $$$ leaning tword the BFG TA 215/60-14 on my 14x7 and hope for no rub. I did the Toyta Brake upgrade in the front and am looking for the maxima bracket if I can find one will do that also. Love this forum. Peace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawaiiz Posted May 14, 2007 Author Share Posted May 14, 2007 And I thought I had it rough. This guys solution was to cut it. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/rearend/index.html Since I have the new bushings and spindles from the parts car I may do the same thing, sure would be nice to have the puller. I got a stick welder think I can fab a puller up...Hmmmm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted May 14, 2007 Share Posted May 14, 2007 Since I have the new bushings and spindles from the parts car I may do the same thing, sure would be nice to have the puller. I got a stick welder think I can fab a puller up...Hmmmm. You don't need to weld one up, get a piece of 1" all thread 1 foot long a piece of 1" pipe 10" long a couple 1" washers and a 1" nut. All this can be had for about $15.00. Drill a 13/32 hole in the end of the all thead and tap it with a 12 X 1.25mm tap. Screw the 1" all thread on the spindle pin, slide the 1" pipe over the all thread followed by the two 1" washers and the 1" nut. Be sure to grease the all thread and the washers. This will work just fine if you are only doing one Z. The loaner program will also get one to you, the cost will be about $22 because of the postage rate increase. I also sell one on eBay for $114.99 that is welded and has a thrust bearing and a 12X 1.25mm helicoil in the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TeamNissan Posted May 14, 2007 Share Posted May 14, 2007 It can be had for $15 but where the hell do you find metric threaded rod and coupling? Non order lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TravRMK Posted May 14, 2007 Share Posted May 14, 2007 It can be had for $15 but where the hell do you find metric threaded rod and coupling? Non order lol. You tap the 1" all thread with a 12 X 1.25mm tap, which you then screw onto the pin. No metric all thread needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted May 14, 2007 Share Posted May 14, 2007 You tap the 1" all thread with a 12 X 1.25mm tap, which you then screw onto the pin. No metric all thread needed. I guess that is a little detail I left out. The 1" all thread is SAE not metric. Over time I found that the 12 X 1.25MM thread takes a beating so I now helicoil the end of the 1" all thread on the puller I make and sell. With out a helicoil the tool will do several spindle pins before it strips out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawaiiz Posted May 14, 2007 Author Share Posted May 14, 2007 Great Ideas, stripping out is why I though I might weld it up using a couple grade 8 nuts welded to some all thread. Mayby ill give it a try tonite. Later all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted May 14, 2007 Share Posted May 14, 2007 Maybe a little more than $15 should you not already own the tap. The tap by itself runs $16 from McMaster Carr (BTW, McMaster Carr carries Metric all thread too) Why not weld the all thread to the spindle pin itself? I'm a cheap SOB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G.I.jonas Posted May 14, 2007 Share Posted May 14, 2007 I spent 2 days pounding mine with a sledge to get it out,after hours of drinking heavily it finally came out after i heated it up with a torch for about 20 minutes and spilling beer on it to shock the metal lol,beer to the rescue!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HizAndHerz Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 The tap by itself runs $16 from McMaster Carr Amazingly, my local Ace HW had the tap for around $8. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFancypants Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 After you get the bastards out, replace them with one of these: 11.5" 5/8 Grade 8 bolt with about 1" removed. IIRC I had to use some 7/16 washers slightly bored out so they fit smoothly over the bolt for use with the ES bushing sleeves. 5/8 washer was a little too loose as you can see in the pic. - Greg - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUSSJZ-ZED Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 Good idea. Must be lower priced than originals, Any strength problems? Have you notched for the lock pin, or left it out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFancypants Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 I must confess the car still hasnt been driven since I began the suspension/brake overhaul several months ago I didnt notch for the pin. I dont see how it's necessary since the head will never come off and the bolt length is perfect. I used a grade 8 5/8 lock nut (crushed, not nylon). I also coated the bolt surface with antiseize and plugged the pin holes, though I doubt it will rust badly enough to seize again. 5/8 is slightly smaller than the spindle pin. - Greg - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUSSJZ-ZED Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 Subject to the experts coming up with a real good reason why not,I'll give it a try,I have to do the ones on the car sometime soon, allready mashed one in my spare set(and still havn't managed to get it out ) The bolt head also should make a good point to turn them if they ever lock/rust up again. C'mom you expert guys, reasons why not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 This is a consideration that was brought up when Jon and I posted about the use of the 5/8" bolt. The spindle pin (to the best of my recollection) is .630" in diameter. A 5/8" bolt is .620" diameter (not .625" as one would think). This leaves .010" of clearance between the bolt shank and the strut pin boss. Depending on the dimensions of the inner sleeves for the bushings, you could easily double this amount of clearance (.010 for each bushing sleeves + .010 in the boss, and you've got potentially .020" of "slop" that must be taken into consideration (and some aftermarket bushings have even more clearance that this).This movement between the control arm and the boss must be kept in check only by the compression provided in tightening the assembly (basically crushing the inner steel sleeves of the bushings between the pin boss and the bolt head/nut). With a high-torque motor, and good sticky tires, I find this troubling for me. But also consider the alignment issue below. This .010" (X2) of "slop", if not addressed when tightening the assembly, can introduce as much as .17º of toe (either in or out), which equates to over 1/16" of toe in or out on a 25" tire. Though not significant, it will affect the feel of the car, and it must be accounted for while tightening the assembly to get it "right". The reason the bushings and pins are machined for a close tolerance from the factory is for a good reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 You know I'm not a math whiz, but did you figure this .17 degree of toe change based on .010" misaglinment front and back? Because the length of the bushing sleeve cuts down the possible misalignment considerably. I'm not really able to explain what I mean easily, so I'll use an example. If you have a bolt through a sleeve that is 1/8" wide and it has .010" of slop, there is a considerable degree of movement within the sleeve (and angle change) before the bolt hits the sleeve. However if the bolt is fed through a 10" long sleeve, the .010" of slop equates to relatively little toe change. I was surprised how little movement was possible using the bolt. I had figured on the slop helping me to align the strut, but really it allowed barely any movement whatsoever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.