OlderThanMe Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 Well I have my MN47 completely stripped down and am ready to assemble it but I have one problem. On the rear exhaust bolt that was broken off I drilled the hole, put in the easy-out, and twisted... Off it came. It broke clean flush with the bolt surface. What can I do? The easy-out doesn't want to be drilled into to retry removing the bolt. How can I get the broken bolt out? It is about 1/8" to 3/16" down into the hole. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 i just did this with my turbo motor that is on the stand.. i used a dremel with a carbide ball a really small one and i was actually able to grind out the easy out i then decided to just drill it out and then put 10mm studs on the front and rear exhaust studs that are prone to breaking of course i had to retapp it but no biggie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chemicalblue Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 Ya , like jeffer said small dremel. I’ve use a cut off wheel to carve a slot for a flat head screw driver. Soak it for a while in some good penetrating oil and 9 times out of 10 it comes out pretty quick. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 I would soak it down in penetrating oil and try some titanium reverse drill bits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFancypants Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 I would soak it down in penetrating oil and try some titanium reverse drill bits. Actually you'll want to use normal clockwise thread drill bits when taking out an easy out since it is already reverse thread. Unless youre lucky and can work the entire stud free. I'd rather remove the easy out first then work on the stud, though. Definitely worth a shot since it should only be bound up under pressure. If you cant get the bit to start you're probably stuck with the carbide bit as described. I used an Easy Out... ONCE - Greg - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted May 16, 2007 Author Share Posted May 16, 2007 3 easy outs later...the bolt is still in there... I'm going to the machine shop in the morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 Use a punch and drive the easy out ...well out. Drill the stud just until you might risk hitting the threads. Take a small punch and fold the stud in at the edges. Soak some more with penetrating oil then take the reverse bits to it. It will come out. Use heat also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest nwcubsman Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 Olderthanme, There are tools called Hardcut drills made by Sandvik Coromant, from Sweden. They are designed to cut things like broken taps, M2 and M42 type High Speed Steels, which is what you have in there. They can be ordered by a Sandvik distributor which are in all major markets in the country. I used to work for Sandvik, and I know they have been around for 25+ years. They can be bought individually or in a 4 piece set. So, while a machine shop may be easiest, you can drill through the easy-out. Best done on a post drill, where you can keep the angle and location constant. Sorry I didn;t see your post earlier. I lurk here only occasionally. Good Luck, Bryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 and throw the rest of your easy outs in the garbage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roger.svoboda Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 If you have a cutting torch with a small tip you can blow the easy out that way. it will only burn out that which gets hottest first which is the easy out. I have even burnt out large bolts after drilling thru them without damaging the threads. Course the person using the torch has to be smarter than the bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted May 16, 2007 Author Share Posted May 16, 2007 cutting torch vs. Aluminum head... hardened steel melts above 2300 degrees. Aluminum melts near 1200 degrees... Aluminum has a great thermal conductivity so it will suck the heat away from the bolt until the whole head gets to the same temperature. I used a torch to heat my block to help get off a busted head bolt but the block is cast iron... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveosupremeo Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 hey OTM, i had the same prob with my MN47 on the rear exhaust stud. i went to sears and bought some of the tiny cobalt coated bits and kept drilling at the stud around the ez out until i was able to hit it with a chisle and grab it with needle nose, then just drilled out the rest of the stud and installed a 10MMx1.25. lots of cussing involved, don't kid yourself, but only spent about $12. machine shop wouldn't even look at it when i called them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted May 16, 2007 Author Share Posted May 16, 2007 yeah the shop did not want to even look at it when I said broken easy out... I got some cobalt bits to help with it. I have already reassembled my E88 today with the straight valves from my MN47 so I won't be using it for quite a while. I'll still get it fixed and do some intake porting and valve unshrouding on it while it is stripped. I'll probably do bigger valves while I am building this thing . I'll probably be getting exhaust studs for this head instead of using bolts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 I had a problem with a Cheap thermostat housing I refussed to let die. I ended up drilling the aluminium around the stud and all of it fell out including the easy out. The hole ended up being 7/16 but it worked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David K Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 Easy outs are so cheap. I broke one on my Camaro back in the days, never used them again. Ive never seen anything good about easy outs. I tack welded an old 1/4 socket extension to the bolt and took it out with a socket wrench. If you try it, just try to keep the weld off the aluminum. I got some of the weld on the aluminum, but it didnt stick and fell right off when i turned the wrench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilentNight1647 Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 The only way I've ever been able to do anything like that was to weld a nut on the bolt and heat the area surrounding it with a torch and use a good penentrating oil, I've done it on aluminum before but you have to be very careful obviosuly to avoid melting the head you only need to get it hot enough to expand it a thousandths to back the bolt out, just wondering are you going to put anti seize on it when it goes back together? JK, good luck and let us know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted May 17, 2007 Author Share Posted May 17, 2007 wow thanks for all the suggestions guys! I welded a nut onto the head bolts that were broken off right at the block's surface. The bolt broken off on this head is too far down to weld unfortunately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 http://waltontools.com/products/remvzinc.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted May 18, 2007 Share Posted May 18, 2007 Did you get it?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2126 Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 The method that roger.svoboda suggested is a good method for removing broken bolts from aluminum. There is so much aluminum in the head, it will not have time to heat up as quickly as the broken bolt you are attempting to remove. Using this method should be done quickly.....Focus the flame from the cutting torch directly on the broken bolt and or easy-out until it starts to puddle, then give it a blast of O2 (O2 lever on cutting torch) and it will blow the molten metal away without harming the aluminum. If you don't get it all out with the first attempt, let the head cool enough to touch it with a bare hand and do the procedure again. (this is the method we used to remove broken studs from aluminum aircraft engines). Of course, once you completely remove the broken bolt and the head has cooled, run a proper sized bottom tape in the threads to gress them up! You should be good to move forward again. I personally recommend replacing all the manifold studs in the head with ARP S.S. studs....they will not corrode like the steel studs do. And be sure to use to use some sort of thread sealant on the studs, just in case one of the threaded stud holes has made its way into a water passage. Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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