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HybridZ

New CV Joint, Diff conversion, brake swap in the Works!


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With the R230 conversion, I feel that is as strong as it gets without backhalfing so more power is in order this winter. Edelbrock has come out with a new carb Supercharger kit. I really want to stay old school with minimal electronic crap. BTW: Between the built in camber adjustment on the Techno Toy Strut and changing the ride height with the coil over springs, you can get a lot of negative camber for road racing or positive camber for anticipating squat for drag racing.

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  • 1 month later...
Hey Mike,

 

How are those 2.93s working out? Any Butt dyno readouts?

 

My TTT rear setup is installed but still have to make a front diff mount for the R230.

 

Then all I have to do is get a motor in the car :rolleyesg.

 

2.93's working out great on the highway ... 70mph and under 3000 rpm's without an overdrive and a 4200 stall converter is not to shabby.

 

We'll see how it acts the 2nd week in January as I will have it at the track for some testing runs.

 

Stony - Rear end pics are in my Hybrid Z album in my signature. Sort them from most recent and they should be close to the top.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Guys,

 

I am in Australia and i have a 71 240Z (series 2) which i am putting in an RB26, and trying to work out the best way to do this rear end. It seems that the 300ZX Z32TT diff is not a simple bolt in, so what is the next best option?

 

should i be looking at an Sylvia S15 R200 rear end (with Quaiffe style LSD), or short nose R200 from an R33/R34 Skyline (GTR or GTST?). we don't have the Q45 or armada here

 

will the rear brakes and hand brake assemblies and hubs work out of all these cars? or will there be modifications required? or am i better sticking with the Z32TT hubs, brakes etc. with whatever diff is available (ie. S15/R33/R34)?

 

are there any issues as my car has the earlier forward front diff mount?

 

i presume the axles would be the heaviest part of the set, any idea on what they weight?

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yo880 I see you are in Sydney, if you want to run the Z32/R32 rear brake setup I would talk to the guys at Steward Wilkins Motorsport as they sell a custom CNC backing plate that installs on the stock strut. This has the mounting for the 2 pot caliper, for the little internal drum setup for the hand brake so all you need to do is redrill the 5x114.3 to 4x114.3 if staying with 4 stud. Not cheap but all the work is done already and they have had them certed before for use on Australian roads so might be worth the coin in the end.

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i had my 240K done over at Wilkins, and i found them to be pretty (well.. very) $$$$ for what they did.. it will cost me a lot less to get the TTT kit and bolt it all on (especially with the shafts etc. and the full shortnose LSD swap).. hopefully there will be no issues with engineering as it looks very well made (i can't imagine it being any different to the quality of wilkins kit)

 

i appreciate you sharing the option though!

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  • 1 month later...
Hi Guys,

 

I am in Australia and i have a 71 240Z (series 2) which i am putting in an RB26, and trying to work out the best way to do this rear end. It seems that the 300ZX Z32TT diff is not a simple bolt in, so what is the next best option?

 

should i be looking at an Sylvia S15 R200 rear end (with Quaiffe style LSD), or short nose R200 from an R33/R34 Skyline (GTR or GTST?). we don't have the Q45 or armada here

 

will the rear brakes and hand brake assemblies and hubs work out of all these cars? or will there be modifications required? or am i better sticking with the Z32TT hubs, brakes etc. with whatever diff is available (ie. S15/R33/R34)?

 

are there any issues as my car has the earlier forward front diff mount?

 

i presume the axles would be the heaviest part of the set, any idea on what they weight?

 

 

I am using the short nose R200 MLSD from the rear of a R32 GTR, it has the same large 6 bolt inner CV's as the Z32 TT R230. It is physically smaller and lighter than the R230, and certainly should be up to the job. Its ratio is 4.11:1

 

Mine is a race car and i am solid mounting the diff via bars from the roll cage going thru the floor.

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  • 3 months later...

If you come across your gear ratio is too tall then gtr Diff is basically the same thing ( i believe) and it offers gear ratios in the 4s. Nice build please keep us updated on how the rearend holds up. I would like to use the same setup but with a powerglide and a gtr diff with 4.11s in it.

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please keep us updated on how the rearend holds up.

 

I went with the Armada diff because I needed the 2.93 gears (Non-Overdrive transmission) instead of the Z32's 3.70. The Armada R&P won't fit into the Z32 case. My Buick Stage 2 and 27" tall Mickey Thompson drag radials should give the setup a good stress test, as I'm expecting somewhere in the neighborhood of 8-900 lb/ft of torque.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Any news on the strength of this setup? I am thinking of doing this sometime down the line, once I get ahold of a Q45 VLSD. Shouldn't be too long. I have heard rumors of needing to re-inforce the front diff mount that is welded to the car. Has anyone here done this or not done this and noticed and problems?

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