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Should I?


Guest TDMCobra

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Guest TDMCobra

Recently, while driving my 95 Cobra, someone lost control and knocked me off the road. It might be totalled. But the engine, transmission, and most of everything else are in great shape. Just the frame seems to need replacing (which leaves the chance of it being totalled at possibly, the claims adjuster had been running numbers for the past 2 days, still on the fence). Pause for pictures..

 

1001910mi8.jpg

1001913rh1.jpg

 

Yes I know it looks ok before you say, it doesnt look bad. Just trust me...but anyways, I was planning to take the goods from the cobra and put them into a RX-7 FC if it really is gone but on SVTP, I was told about the 240/280z swap and refered to here. So I guess Im totally new to this whole idea and was wondering what yall could tell me about it.

 

-Hows the fit, is it worth it?

-General costs?

-What needs to be replaced (esp with my 331 stroked engine) like a rear end etc?

-Does anyone make kits?

-Could I make this into a reliable daily driver?

-What year models is this good for?

-Besides craigslist, any good places yall know of just to get a solid roller?

-What is the difference between 240zs and 280zs? I dont know Datsuns :(

 

If this thread goes well, Id be willing to write a "newbie faq" post for sticky. Thanks for yalls help!

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Hehehe...I'm not a swap expert so I don't have anything for you other than...HELL YES!!!! All the reason in the world to do the swap is in this forum. Now for sad part. Most of your mounts are probably gonna be custom pieces, but by no means let that stop you. We've all had to one off something just to get the Z back on the road. It's what makes this site what it is.

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Guest TDMCobra
Hehehe...I'm not a swap expert so I don't have anything for you other than...HELL YES!!!! All the reason in the world to do the swap is in this forum. Now for sad part. Most of your mounts are probably gonna be custom pieces, but by no means let that stop you. We've all had to one off something just to get the Z back on the road. It's what makes this site what it is.

 

Thats the feel I was getting from the site. Im just worried about with all the extra torque and just customizing needed, it might not be as solid as I would want for my driving style and for the daily. Since thats what it would be replacing, I kinda need that reliability ya know? I know some of you might say, well then swaps arent for you but I know you can make them reliable.

 

-Hows the fit, is it worth it?

-General costs?

-What needs to be replaced (esp with my 331 stroked engine) like a rear end etc?

-Does anyone make kits?

-Could I make this into a reliable daily driver?

-What year models is this good for?

-Besides craigslist, any good places yall know of just to get a solid roller?

-What is the difference between 240zs and 280zs? I dont know Datsuns :(

 

Anyone?

 

This is the picture that really got me inspired.

normalimg2816pn9.jpg

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Guest TDMCobra
Do it, a 240z/260z/280z with your motor would smoke your cobra in a race... and any motor swap is "custom"

 

Also there are many ford powerd z cars on here you can get great info from.

good luck!

 

1000lbs less = much faster. Just got word the car is officially totalled.:cry2::cry2::cry2::cry2::cry2:

 

I understand that its very custom. Im currently debating what to do. My dads friends shop said they can fix it for 5,000 but it would have a salvage title. Which would also give me an extra 2-3,000 + the car fixed and running but at the same time, I could get a lil honda or something and drive that until I do or finish a project. Still dont know what to do. Gah. I love the Zs but who knows.

 

By the way, you have one sexy ass Z.

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Hi Welcome to HBZ.

I belive fitment is an issue with those engine, they are to wide and you would have to work the sidewalls...If it has been done, you can find out by searching a little, use various key words and something will pop up.

Cost:well everyone's swap has a different price, this is depending on your abilitie to work on car..you save lots by doing most things yourself, if not it could get expensive.

Rear end:Most commun swap is the R200 VLSD from the infinity Q45, search under drivetrain, everything is covered on that one..Some members are running high hp Z's without a problem.

Kits:I don't know this one.

I have a LS2 Z and drive it to work 3 days a week and on weekends, I have 6k miles in about 6 months, There has been small issues but you can use it as a daily driver.

All models from 70 to 78 are good candidates for any swap, If you start with a 240 or 260 make sure you stiff up the frame a little.if you start with a 280 you can get away with a little over 400 whp with just upgrading the regular stuff.

Craigslist,local newspaper,ebay are a major source.

280Z's are stronger and heavier than 240Z's...

 

Good luck!

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-Hows the fit, is it worth it?

 

Assuming the engine is a 5.0L HO it will fit very well. There is plenty of room. You might have to do a custom steering setup if you want it maximum back and down, but if you are willing to give up a half inch or so it can fit fine with out relocation.

 

-General costs?

 

Take your budget and multiply it by 1.5 to 2. Really depends on what you consider the swap to be. Will you be touching the brakes and suspension? If not are you going EFI/Carb, that sort of stuff. You will need an R200 differential ($70-150... more for LSD), fuel, electrical, Alsil's mount ($150-$200), custom driveshaft (maybe take an R200 shaft and have a shop weld it to a Ford shaft), JTR trans mount ($70??? can't remember), clutch setup ($200), etc. It could be done on the cheap, but usually these things don't turn out so. Also you will start to notice your willpower being tested. There is a big difference between needing and wanting something. You might find yourself "needing" alot of things. :)

 

 

-What needs to be replaced (esp with my 331 stroked engine) like a rear end etc?

 

Rear end. An R200 (search for it) is a common, easy, cheap swap. These are old cars too if you plan on acctually driving it you might want to spruce up the suspension, brakes, etc. Most people agree the brakes are plenty sufficent for a street car. The suspension may need new bushings and springs/struts depending on condition of the vehicle.

 

-Does anyone make kits?

 

"Alsil" makes a cross member that allows the 5.0L engine to be mounted using later 60's mustang motor mounts. It is pretty straight forward and relatively cheap. It isn't a "kit" though.

 

-Could I make this into a reliable daily driver?

 

Certainly.

 

-What year models is this good for?

 

70-78. 240z - 280z. You can do any other year, but it would be more difficult as few people have done them. Also smog exemption is nice for pre 76'ers in CA.

 

-Besides craigslist, any good places yall know of just to get a solid roller?

 

I got mine on Ebay. CHECK FOR RUST!

 

-What is the difference between 240zs and 280zs? I dont know Datsuns :(

 

240z is the lightest at soemwhere around 2300lbs. IIRC the 260z is around 2400-2600lb. The 280z is around 2700-2800lb even though the two cars look almost identical. The added weight comes from bumpers, longer frame rails (incleeased regidity), and a bunch of other crash safety stuff.

 

Search. All of this is on the forum if you search. I just want to see you do it personally. IMHO I wouldn't take a 5.0 from such a nice car. All you need is the motor and trans for the swap, you can get that for cheap elsewhere. No sense in dismantling a 95 Cobra. It is up to you though. If you do plan on doing this I can give you P/N for alot of things.

 

Also buy the Datsun Chevy swap manual from "Jaguars that run". Much of the Chevy stuff applies to the Ford. It talks about rpetty much everything basic that you need to know, and it goes into detail on other things. Very good book.

 

TIP: Buy a more expensive car that has the suspension, brakes, non rusted panels, stuff like that done. It will save you alot of headache later, unless you are planning on doing a complete build yourself.

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Guest TDMCobra
Hi Welcome to HBZ.

I belive fitment is an issue with those engine, they are to wide and you would have to work the sidewalls...If it has been done, you can find out by searching a little, use various key words and something will pop up.

Cost:well everyone's swap has a different price, this is depending on your abilitie to work on car..you save lots by doing most things yourself, if not it could get expensive.

Rear end:Most commun swap is the R200 VLSD from the infinity Q45, search under drivetrain, everything is covered on that one..Some members are running high hp Z's without a problem.

Kits:I don't know this one.

I have a LS2 Z and drive it to work 3 days a week and on weekends, I have 6k miles in about 6 months, There has been small issues but you can use it as a daily driver.

All models from 70 to 78 are good candidates for any swap, If you start with a 240 or 260 make sure you stiff up the frame a little.if you start with a 280 you can get away with a little over 400 whp with just upgrading the regular stuff.

Craigslist,local newspaper,ebay are a major source.

280Z's are stronger and heavier than 240Z's...

 

Good luck!

 

Thanks!

 

Assuming the engine is a 5.0L HO it will fit very well. There is plenty of room. You might have to do a custom steering setup if you want it maximum back and down, but if you are willing to give up a half inch or so it can fit fine with out relocation.

 

Its the 5.0 Cobra, but same difference. How difficult would the custom steering be? Realistically. I do 95% of my own work unless I know Im truely outclassed no matter what.

 

Take your budget and multiply it by 1.5 to 2. Really depends on what you consider the swap to be. Will you be touching the brakes and suspension? If not are you going EFI/Carb, that sort of stuff. You will need an R200 differential ($70-150... more for LSD), fuel, electrical, Alsil's mount ($150-$200), custom driveshaft (maybe take an R200 shaft and have a shop weld it to a Ford shaft), JTR trans mount ($70??? can't remember), clutch setup ($200), etc. It could be done on the cheap, but usually these things don't turn out so. Also you will start to notice your willpower being tested. There is a big difference between needing and wanting something. You might find yourself "needing" alot of things. :)

 

Unfortunatly, I know projects all too well. I had just put the TwEECer RT engine management system into my car the day of the wreck. The cobra had just about every base covered. N/A wise at least.

 

 

Rear end. An R200 (search for it) is a common, easy, cheap swap. These are old cars too if you plan on acctually driving it you might want to spruce up the suspension, brakes, etc. Most people agree the brakes are plenty sufficent for a street car. The suspension may need new bushings and springs/struts depending on condition of the vehicle.

 

Right, I was planning on building this over time. Between average daily and auction worthy. Ill check on that read end.

 

"Alsil" makes a cross member that allows the 5.0L engine to be mounted using later 60's mustang motor mounts. It is pretty straight forward and relatively cheap. It isn't a "kit" though.

 

Thats fine. Would I just need that and 60s style motor mounts?

 

 

70-78. 240z - 280z. You can do any other year, but it would be more difficult as few people have done them. Also smog exemption is nice for pre 76'ers in CA.

 

Texas here, no worries for me.

 

I got mine on Ebay. CHECK FOR RUST!

 

I found the perfect donor on craigslist till rust was mentioned..

 

240z is the lightest at soemwhere around 2300lbs. IIRC the 260z is around 2400-2600lb. The 280z is around 2700-2800lb even though the two cars look almost identical. The added weight comes from bumpers, longer frame rails (incleeased regidity), and a bunch of other crash safety stuff.

 

So Im having a hard time dicerning how people feel about this. The 240z seems like a badass car at 500lbs less and maybe with something like a welded in subframe connector, that would make it strong enough? I guess Im wondering if I can easily make it as rigid as a 280z with little effort or just get the 280z headache free.

 

Search. All of this is on the forum if you search. I just want to see you do it personally. IMHO I wouldn't take a 5.0 from such a nice car. All you need is the motor and trans for the swap, you can get that for cheap elsewhere. No sense in dismantling a 95 Cobra. It is up to you though. If you do plan on doing this I can give you P/N for alot of things.

 

I plan too, just needed to get a feel for where and what to search for. I normally wouldnt dismantle the Cobra but it is totalled at this point. Even then, I might just set the Cobra and build a different 302/T5. Thanks for the PN offer, if it all works out, Ill definintly PM you. Thanks for being helpful. Will I really just need a engine and tranny? What about CPU etc? Or was that just a general statement...

 

Also buy the Datsun Chevy swap manual from "Jaguars that run". Much of the Chevy stuff applies to the Ford. It talks about rpetty much everything basic that you need to know, and it goes into detail on other things. Very good book.

 

Just might do that, or even just get an LT1. Im the only Ford guy in my group of friends. The rest have mean Camaros and such. I can get one cheap...but that would make me a traitor to the ford side and essentially make all my ford knowledge useless....cancel that, 302 is here to stay. What do you know about 351 Windsors, similar?

 

TIP: Buy a more expensive car that has the suspension, brakes, non rusted panels, stuff like that done. It will save you alot of headache later, unless you are planning on doing a complete build yourself.

 

Haha, for sure. I love being cheap but sometimes its not worth it. Thanks for you help! If anyone else wants to pitch in, feel free!

.

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I myself just bought a 280Z (1978) for the simple fact that it has a more rigid frame. There are things you can do to lighten up the car such as fiberglass fenders, hood, remove bumpers etc. The stock 280Z bumpers look like crap and aren't going to protect you in the event of a crash.

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Custom steering was a bit of a pain... It can work out nicely though. I have the P/N for the U-Joint which is about $40 IIRC then you need a spherical rod end, also $20 that is anodized AL on mcmaster.com. Then you cut the stock shaft in half, reweld, stick an oil impregnated bearing on it and mount the rod end onto a custom braket that all bolts onto the Alsil mount plate. It sounds harder than it is. In either case you probably won't need to relocate the steering. "JustJim" is using the same headers as me and has his pretty low and back, but did not need to relocate.

 

I chose the 240z for the light weight and emissions exemption. Most of the racecars out there seem to be 240z's. They can be made adequately stiff. Alot of people do little to no frame modifications when dropping in a V8. Subframe connectors are available from Bad Dog Parts if you like. I don't think the flexing is THAT bad. Won't be like a noodle any way.

 

You will need the ECU and such if you want to retain the stock EFI. Alot of people on this board use Megasquirt EFI which is completely tunable DIY EFI. You build it and program it. There is a seperate forum on this board about all that. Personally I am going with a Holley 600CFM Mech DP so I avoided all that... for now... The Ford EFI just seemed very heavy and I didn't feel like spending time figuring it out.

 

351 Windsor physically is the same outside as a 302 except it has a raised deck. It should fit in there fine, IIRC there are a couple people who have them here. The 351w is also slightly heavier due to that raised deck and stronger bottom end.

 

Hope that helps. There is alot of stuff! I would go for an LSD though, for your build. You can pick up R200 open differentials very easily. There is something called the "Power Brute" which is a clutch type LSD available for $450 from "Reider Racing" it is in the group buy section... check it out. Note you will only be buying the carrier though... you would have to have someone, or yourself, install it into an open R200. It is a quality unit though, superior to the stock ones that came in late model Z31 T's.

 

In the member rides section search "RudypooChris" there are a bunch of part numbers there and such. Right now the HybridZ photo album service is down though. Check back when photos work.

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Guest DARK RINGLEADER

Hey TDM its Midnight_Cobra from SVTp. I am seriously thinking about doing this to...just to see if I could do it. I mean 250hp in a 240z will go a long way...and thats just a basic stock 5.0

 

I am trying to search around for a nice 240 with minimal rust. I mean even getting a EFI 5.0 and turning it into a carb'd 5.0 will be a lot cheaper and you will have more room in the interior, and less crap to deal with (wiring, smog stuff, egr....basically all the crap on you car lol)

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Guest Reisman240Z

If I had a 240z, which I do. and I suddenly had you motor. I would naturally put it in the Z. But since you have an engine and no car I would buy a classic Mustang with a good body and a tired engine for like 5 or 6 grand and I would drop the new Cobra engine in. Thats just my opinion.

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Hello TDMCobra, I'm up here in Florence, just north of Georgetown. If I were you, in which I'm not, and could get my Cobra ( since I don't have but wish ) fixed for around $5000.00 and with money left over. I would get it fixed and find myself a decent 240Z / 260Z or 280Z and get started with that. 5.0 engines are plentiful at the wrecking yards and fairly cheap. Over in Belton on East 190, there is a new place called Budget Pick -N- Pull. There phone number is (254-939-6700). He has got quite a bit of Ford cars and trucks in there. Also he has about the best prices around. Also if you owned your Cobra outright and it did not go to the insurance storage yard. You may come out with a clear title instead of a salvage title. I have a 1994 Ford F150 that has been totaled twice and still has a clear title. Good luck and keep us posted.

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If the cobra's not your daily driver and you would rather have a Z than the mustang, then yeah, go for it. The swap has been done, and the guys on this site are more than willing to help out in any way possible, so the decision is yours. Fix your mustand, or build a Z.

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