zthis Posted July 1, 2007 Share Posted July 1, 2007 Busted a U joint at the track last weekend replaced it at the track made another pass and then heard a new clunking sound take a look at the center pin in the differental. Is this common. I normally run high 1.5 60fts with an ET of 11.3. I think the 3.90 gears are ok is it a big job to swap them into another center section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted July 1, 2007 Administrators Share Posted July 1, 2007 Yes, this is common and even happens with bone stock N/A L-28’s. The roll pin that secures the shaft your spider gears rotate on will fall out and then that shaft will “waller” (is that a term?) a slot in the cage, just as your picture shows. Due to your aggressive launches, (nice 60’ time by the way), you found it fairly early. On the lower powered L-28 cars, that slot will get very long and then the shaft breaks in half. Also, from now on, could you please shrink your pictures down to smaller than 1024 across? 800x600 is nice all-around picture size so we don’t have to scroll our screens sideways. Thanks, Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnjdragracing Posted July 1, 2007 Share Posted July 1, 2007 Yep looks like it is time to weld it up solid, then covert to cv joints. 60ft. times are good. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zthis Posted July 1, 2007 Author Share Posted July 1, 2007 this rear end has made maybe 50 passes at the track so am i correct in assumming that this wear started at pass 1 and wear continued to expand the pin slot from that pass on. Is there something that can be done to prevent it from happening again (other than slowing down of course). John how much welding should i do with it just a tack or go completely around both ends of the pin. Do you have your beast welded? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted July 1, 2007 Administrators Share Posted July 1, 2007 You could just weld the pin to the cage, or as John mentioned, welding the diff solid. I think I remember seeing some good pics of properly welded diffs on this forum at one time. I ran a fully welded 3.90 R-200 in my V-8 Z and from what I remember, all the spider gears were welded to each other at every contact point, the cage gears were welded to the cage at every possible location. I don’t recall if the gears were welded to the spider shaft or not. As for swapping the ring and pinion, I would think you could source another 3.90 ratio R-200. Probably be easier to just do that instead of swapping over the ring and pinion. I am pretty sure I have at least 1, maybe even two, 3.90 ratio R-200’s that I most likely won’t use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 2, 2007 Share Posted July 2, 2007 3.90 gears are pretty common in 280ZX's. I'd find another diff with those gears, as setting those gears up in another housing will be a lot more difficult. That failure is discussed in my diff FAQ post, it is also fairly common, especially with drag raced R200s. Welding is going to make it about as strong as you can get, an LSD would help too. More info on other options, LSDs, etc in that diff FAQ post here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116207 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veritech-z Posted July 2, 2007 Share Posted July 2, 2007 What are the drivability symptoms of this particular mode of diff failure? My diff kind of "jerks" under steady state cruise or engine braking (but not under power), it kind of feels like it's trying to jump out the back? There is no accompanying noise like a bad u-joint would make. I've got a solid front mount, and uerethane mustache bar mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted July 2, 2007 Administrators Share Posted July 2, 2007 It will clunk as you load and unload it, i.e. on and off the throttel, just like a bad U-joint that has a lot of slop in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veritech-z Posted July 2, 2007 Share Posted July 2, 2007 Hmmm...I wonder if that's what's happening to mine, then. Guess I'll have to pull the cover and look at the pin one of these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnjdragracing Posted July 2, 2007 Share Posted July 2, 2007 As BRAAP mentoined, I would weld the whole thing up including the spider gears to each other. Yes I have welded ours up and seems to be holding. Also as mentonied I would replace that carrier with another one. John this rear end has made maybe 50 passes at the track so am i correct in assumming that this wear started at pass 1 and wear continued to expand the pin slot from that pass on. Is there something that can be done to prevent it from happening again (other than slowing down of course).John how much welding should i do with it just a tack or go completely around both ends of the pin. Do you have your beast welded? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zthis Posted July 2, 2007 Author Share Posted July 2, 2007 thanks guys i'll weld it up. Go pick up another carrier ....LOL i'm in Eastern Canada. Finding a Z for parts up here is like you americians saying think i'll go to florida and get a used space shuttle, there might be a few around but NASA isn't selling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted July 2, 2007 Share Posted July 2, 2007 Lol. R200s are a dime a dozen in the junkyards around here.. I couldn't find an R180 if I tried! On another note I was at the JY and found a complete Z31 turbo. I was jumping around like a little kid in a candy shop. I pulled the whole rear sub-frame, diff, axles, control arm, et...Only to find out that the car wasn't originally a turbo... No LSD diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted July 3, 2007 Share Posted July 3, 2007 I couldn't find an R180 if I tried! Start looking for Subura STis and you might have better luck. Cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted July 3, 2007 Administrators Share Posted July 3, 2007 Start looking for Subura STis and you might have better luck. Cary Cary, What about the standard WRX, did they come with the R-160 or R-180? Those STi R-180’s. Are all those LSD? Is the LSD clutch or Viscous? What ratios, any 3.36 or please oh please a 3.15? What about frogs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 3, 2007 Share Posted July 3, 2007 I believe the STi has the clutch LSD R180 and the WRX has the R160. This is something of a thread jack so whoever wants to pursue the R180 thing ought to start a new thread, but the R180 has a different output spline count on the side gears, so the Z CV's don't plug in. John Coffey has tried this if I remember correctly, so he could probably help fill in the blanks for anyone interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted July 3, 2007 Share Posted July 3, 2007 I have a 3.36 R180 that I'm not using.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted July 4, 2007 Share Posted July 4, 2007 Is that differential an open 2 pinion unit? It looks like it. You might have more success with an LSD or a 4-pinion (or combo) R200. Or am I missing something here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 The pin breakage is very common. I have 3 diffs sitting in storage now with all broke pins. I was wondering if we could fab something better or find a way to keep it from coming loose and breaking. Other than that I never had any problems with the R200 open diffs. I was getting 1.59's and 1.60's on launches and the pin has been the only problem. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxtor Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 Lol. R200s are a dime a dozen in the junkyards around here.. I couldn't find an R180 if I tried! On another note I was at the JY and found a complete Z31 turbo. I was jumping around like a little kid in a candy shop. I pulled the whole rear sub-frame, diff, axles, control arm, et...Only to find out that the car wasn't originally a turbo... No LSD diff. Around here, R180's are everywhere. I have two of them. I have three R200's just in case I blow one in our 240ZV8. Finding the axle shafts that have the four bolt flange for the R200 is difficult. CV shafts are the norm here. Redding Calif. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 The pin breakage is very common. I have 3 diffs sitting in storage now with all broke pins. I was wondering if we could fab something better or find a way to keep it from coming loose and breaking. Other than that I never had any problems with the R200 open diffs. I was getting 1.59's and 1.60's on launches and the pin has been the only problem. You know we had a guy from NZ the other day say that they can get ARB lockers for the R200. This would be THE KICK ASS DIFF for drag racers, in my opinion. You drive to the track with an open diff. Push a button and its a spool. Do your runs completely locked, then push the button again and drive home. These things are VERY popular with the rock crawling crowd, so I'm sure they'd handle a high hp drag launch. I'd love to see one of you guys try it. I'm guessing it might even be cheaper than a Quaife, you'd probably have to have one ordered from Oz if they're not stocked anywhere in the US. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.