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Head cooling on cylinder #5 - solutions?


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crap. well since the thread has gone off topic anyhow, thanks for that link.. It is AMAZING the number of things I have yet to think to look up on YouTube. why, it was only the other day that I finally got around to looking up old episodes of Red Dwarf!!!

 

I have heard tapes of either this TV series, or the radio series, or one of the commercial audio releases... and also have MP3s of a DIFFERENT set of the above (tapes of one, MP3s of another) but I have never actually SEEN anything but the recent movie. THANKS!

 

(and, sorry for the thread jack!!)

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  I assume you did try to source the LD pump in Australia, I saw a thread and you mentioned you got it from Japan (?)

My thoughts on the Summary:   - The path of coolant through the L engines results in the rear of the head receiving the hottest coolant having stagnated water flow, insufficient for the he

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tim gave his blessing on the thread jack, otherwise I wasn't going there.

 

I'm still kicking my self for not picking up the dvd box set of the series when I saw it at bestbuy. Haven't looked on line... Hmmm....

 

there it is...

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=14715301&st=hitchhikers+guide&lp=5&type=product&cp=1&id=22265

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Thanks, John - that's exactly what I was looking for. Called Courtesy Nissan and ordered one a couple of days ago. Now I just have to wait and see if the right pump shows up. They did actually find that part number after a search for a Maxima Diesel water pump, so it looks pretty promising.

 

The pump showed up today and it is the correct part, just like in John's pics. The impeller is noticeably bigger than the normal stock pump - it's fully 0.200" larger in diameter. So kudos to Courtesy Nissan (as usual).

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Another alternative is Evans NPG.

 

In reading through Evens website, it appears they are trying to achieve the same thing as Red Line's Water Wetter...promoting nucleate boiling (although by differing methods).

 

Gustave had some thoughts on water wetter... http://e30m3performance.com/myths/more_myths1/Water_Wetter/water_wetter.htm

 

Anybody have any first hand experience with water wetter?

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I run Engine Ice w/ Water wetter added per bottle In my Sport bike. It dosent seem to get hot as fast In traffic. Also after a few hard runs up the mountain it matains good temp. As before with reg. glycol the temp gague would be pegged in these situations. I know its not a car but this is my experience.

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The pump showed up today and it is the correct part, just like in John's pics. The impeller is noticeably bigger than the normal stock pump - it's fully 0.200" larger in diameter. So kudos to Courtesy Nissan (as usual).

 

 

Mine still isn't here :(

 

Water Wetter has been working for me but to what extent I couldn't tell you. I do know that I don't worry about driving in the street at all since using it. Still worried about track time, I've made many other changes so it would be impossible to tell how much cooling difference will be attributable to WW once on the track. My fingers are crossed.

 

Joe

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Anybody have any first hand experience with water wetter?

 

Yup. Many road racing tracks won't allow regular anti-freeze in the cooling system because of how slippery it is if it gets spilled. I used water wetter and water exclusively for years in the ROD mainly for the anti-corrosion additives and pump seal lube.

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Yup. Many road racing tracks won't allow regular anti-freeze in the cooling system because of how slippery it is if it gets spilled. I used water wetter and water exclusively for years in the ROD mainly for the anti-corrosion additives and pump seal lube.

 

I have heard this alot, from many racers whose opinions I hold highly. I wasn't going to regurgitate the info myself, BUT I WILL give it a big ol' +1

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I ran a simple experiment with water wetter. I thought the results we worth sharing.

 

Preface... I frequently run a pretty aggressive timing curve, with around 38 deg. total timing on stock comp. ratio. In the past, this has required the exclusive use of premium fuel. Any L6 I've run with this ignition tune, using regular unleaded, produces significant audible detonation.

 

The experiment was to run aggressive timing on regular unleaded, with and without water wetter.

 

With 85+ deg. ambient, WOT, up hill, fully warmed and premium fuel, day after day, My 260z produces no audible knock. I let the tank run nearly dry, and refilled with reg. unleaded. True to form, it rattled fiercely. Sounded like a diesel truck up every hill from the pump to my shop. I poured a 12oz bottle of water wetter in the system, and drove the car again, same conditions, 24 hours later, for 2 hours.... with no audible knock. This is the first time I've ever run that much timing on reg. fuel an not heard detonation, carb'd or injected.

 

The only exception was extended periods of abuse... 2nd gear, WOT, 5000rpm steady, holding the brakes. After about 8 or 10 seconds audible knock would creep in and get worse with time. Let the car coast for 10 seconds and do it again... no knock initially, but again, after 8 seconds or so, it would creep back in.

 

The test is far too crude to prove anything, but does raise an eyebrow. In my eye's it deserves a second look.

 

P.S. The test car... L26, mild cam, mild exhaust, poorly tuned Holley 390, Magnecor wires, mid-range coil, and one of the most stable cooling systems I’ve witnessed in a Z. I haven’t verified the accuracy of the gauge, but it reads about 165.... and stay’s there. Once up to temp, it never fluctuates more than +/- 1/4 needle width under any condition I’ve subjected it to, including all the above testing.

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I ran a simple experiment with water wetter. I thought the results we worth sharing.

 

Preface... I frequently run a pretty aggressive timing curve, with around 38 deg. total timing on stock comp. ratio. In the past, this has required the exclusive use of premium fuel. Any L6 I've run with this ignition tune, using regular unleaded, produces significant audible detonation.

 

The experiment was to run aggressive timing on regular unleaded, with and without water wetter.

 

With 85+ deg. ambient, WOT, up hill, fully warmed and premium fuel, day after day, My 260z produces no audible knock. I let the tank run nearly dry, and refilled with reg. unleaded. True to form, it rattled fiercely. Sounded like a diesel truck up every hill from the pump to my shop. I poured a 12oz bottle of water wetter in the system, and drove the car again, same conditions, 24 hours later, for 2 hours.... with no audible knock. This is the first time I've ever run that much timing on reg. fuel an not heard detonation, carb'd or injected.

 

The only exception was extended periods of abuse... 2nd gear, WOT, 5000rpm steady, holding the brakes. After about 8 or 10 seconds audible knock would creep in and get worse with time. Let the car coast for 10 seconds and do it again... no knock initially, but again, after 8 seconds or so, it would creep back in.

 

The test is far too crude to prove anything, but does raise an eyebrow. In my eye's it deserves a second look.

 

P.S. The test car... L26, mild cam, mild exhaust, poorly tuned Holley 390, Magnecor wires, mid-range coil, and one of the most stable cooling systems I’ve witnessed in a Z. I haven’t verified the accuracy of the gauge, but it reads about 165.... and stay’s there. Once up to temp, it never fluctuates more than +/- 1/4 needle width under any condition I’ve subjected it to, including all the above testing.

 

Very interesting. I've always run Water Wetter but never really knew whether it was making a difference, hence the reason I didn't post my experiences. Should the conclusion from your testing be that the Water Wetter may have somehow improved cooling in the cylinder head to the point that detonation was reduced? I'm not sure how WW could have affected detonation in any other part of the engine.

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Should the conclusion from your testing be that the Water Wetter may have somehow improved cooling in the cylinder head to the point that detonation was reduced?

 

Thats my assumption.

 

I'm not sure if this is the best way to explain it... if you put a drop of water on a HOT frying pan, the water will dance about and never touch the pan. A vapor barrier quickly forms between the two and acts as an insulator. As I understand it, water wetter alters the surface tension of water and reduces the propensity for the vapor barrier to form.

 

I don't know how accurate that description is, but its not hard for me to imagine this vapor barrier being formed above a chamber (even if localized), and the subsequent 'overheating' of the chamber walls.

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I had an over heating issue with my Z, I cleaned the rad and block with a descaling solution, ducted my Intercooler and spoiler so the air could only go through the IC and Rad rathe than around or under it. I also added a bottle of water wetter and changed the thermostat to an 82 deg type. Now the water never goes above 85 c (185f)

 

Here is a shot of the ducting, a little crude right now but it does the job

ducting_thumb.jpg

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