Pop N Wood Posted September 6, 2007 Share Posted September 6, 2007 The JTR manual has pictures. They also say it should be stick welded, not MIG welded, using a specific alloy of welding rod. I have seen posts were people jam a bolt in between the spider gears and weld that to everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted September 6, 2007 Share Posted September 6, 2007 The JTR manual has pictures. They also say it should be stick welded, not MIG welded, using a specific alloy of welding rod. I have seen posts were people jam a bolt in between the spider gears and weld that to everything. Yeah stick weld woulda been alot easier but all I have is a MIG. I'm gonna try and break it apart and put some bolts in it. Seems to be very popular. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted September 6, 2007 Share Posted September 6, 2007 Yeah stick weld woulda been alot easier but all I have is a MIG. I'm gonna try and break it apart and put some bolts in it. Seems to be very popular. I've arced and miged them. Mig is alot easier to clean. Don't have to knock the slag off. If your welder has the amps, mig is fine. Heating it up isn't going to get your penetration any better if yuor welder lacks the amps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palauoriginal Posted September 6, 2007 Share Posted September 6, 2007 can't you get it done for like 50-75 bucks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted September 6, 2007 Share Posted September 6, 2007 can't you get it done for like 50-75 bucks? Yeah I'm sure I could pay some body to do it for me but that kinda defeats the purpose. I'm not learning anything or getting any better if somebody does it for me. I have a welder, I have grinders, hammers, etc. I'll just do it again. lol. Then when I do one next time I know exactly how to do it. As for heating the metal... I just heard it puts less stress on it. Not so much helping in penetration. My MIG will do 1/2" on a single pass so I'm sure the amperage is sufficient just my welding isn't. I've never welded something like this before. I usually do pipe or tubing or sheet metal. This is my first time with all these curves and valleys and stuff. It's fun to learn on it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted September 6, 2007 Share Posted September 6, 2007 I used a punch and got the stub axles out pretty easy, but ugh.. the carrier and ring gear don't want to come out. I don't want to take the front input off as I know that requires special preload when you bolt it back together. This is a shortnose R200 it's for my 240sx. I guess i'll do some googling see if i can find how it gets assembled. Edit... got it... used some rubber as a bumper and a crow bar and a little tapping she came right out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted September 6, 2007 Share Posted September 6, 2007 You don't need to remove anything on the front. If you did want to, you would still need the carrier out first. Stick a pipe in were the stub axle goes and yank or pry under the carrier. The only thing holding it in after the caps are of is the carrier bearing preload. Some ring gears are on the carriers pretty tight. If yours is, after you get it off, the easiest way to get them back on is heat them up, oven works good or torch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 Ok guys... I fixed it.I beat on it with a 10lb sledge and a metal chisel and only one weld broke off, all the others held true. I Added two bolts and cleaned up some of the "pigeon poo" . So with the revisions of the bolts and more metal I think I'm good. I'll post pics tonight again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 ok... here are the "revised" pics She looks better than before I think Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 oh lordy.. those stick welds.. *shakes head* did you even clean the gears with a stainless brush before you welded?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 have you considered just unwinding an entire roll of mig wire and tossing the diff at an electrical transformer somewhere around your city block? that bolt looks like it will hold, but I wouldnt be surprised if that diff got REALLY noisey and clunky after a while. I would have started with more heat then needed, so it would atleast melt the thick metal and penetrate deeper. it looks as though your heat setting was too low, and wire speed too high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 And you used the wrong alloy of filler rod... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 lol yes the gears were cleaned prior. That's all the heat i had and I turned the wire speed down. I was running on 2 to try to get more penetration. It's not all pretty and perfect, but I did it myself and after beating on it prior to welding, I don't see those welds breaking anytime soon. I added the bolt diagnol to help transfer the loads and reinforce. This diff is going on my bone stock 240 except for exhaust. I'll be lucky if it sees 180 ft/lbs. It's not gonna see 400 ft/lb turbo drag launches or anything like that. Just going to allow me to practice getting sideways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 Well... the first test drive will be interesting. As unbalanced as that diff is now with the bolt and the various weld deposits my guess is that you'll have a little vibration issue about 60 mph. Another diff welding tip is to preload the unit before welding. Using both diff side stub axles, apply slight pressure in opposite directions before tacking the spiders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 It should still be pretty balanced. There is a bolt on both side of the Diff... those pictures are both sides. But I'll let ya know how it goes... After it's first hard session I'll take it apart again and inspect the welds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G.I.jonas Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 I would say that that poor diff is officially butchered,its going to be funny some day when some dude takes the thing apart for a restoration not knowing what lies underneath. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 I would not worry about the welds breaking as much as I would worry about some of the "poop" falling off and jamming your ring and pinion. The idea behind the "careful" welding of the spider gears is to weld them solidly and in such a way that nothing can fall out of the welds and destroy the entire rear end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spork Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 I've successfully welded several diffs with a mig welder before and they survived street driving as well as drag launches, but I never went road racing or anything like that. I even broke a couple axles. The key I found was to just get it as clean as possible, and you can't weld it enough. I had no noticable noise or vibration, but I might've just been lucky. If I pop the cover on the ones I did, I'll be sure to take some pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capt_furious Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 have you considered just unwinding an entire roll of mig wire and tossing the diff at an electrical transformer somewhere around your city block? Hahahahahaaaaa! Brutal! Nismo, bravo for wanting to learn. I don't think I'd have the guts to go at it like this myself, but then again, I don't have the resources, either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted September 8, 2007 Share Posted September 8, 2007 Yeah... I thought about welding on a "cover plate" basically of some sheet metal, but I figured whats the point... if it breaks it's gonna break through that too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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