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Don't fix your car like this, janky autobody 102 @ acura-cl.com


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Did you read any of the comments, I mean jeez. One said "I did this and the rust kept coming back" Well Duh you didn't fix the rust you covered it up AND the kid was talking about doing this again because he thought he did something wrong. Somebody needs to set those kids right on to repair rust, i.e. link to mull's project hugo would work I think.

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Did you read any of the comments, I mean jeez. One said "I did this and the rust kept coming back" Well Duh you didn't fix the rust you covered it up AND the kid was talking about doing this again because he thought he did something wrong. Somebody needs to set those kids right on to repair rust, i.e. link to mull's project hugo would work I think.

 

I'm SO bookmarking that page for when I start my rust removal project :willy_nil;)

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It hurts me to visit that site, Ill go post over there again for the good of the crowd though.

 

I just got done calling someone out for saying turbocharged cars cost more to maintain and are unreliable. idiot.

 

I just posted over there to correct some of the misinformation. Would be a shame if I just let it slide.

 

Evan

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It hurts me to visit that site, Ill go post over there again for the good of the crowd though.

 

I just got done calling someone out for saying turbocharged cars cost more to maintain and are unreliable. idiot.

 

I just posted over there to correct some of the misinformation. Would be a shame if I just let it slide.

 

Evan

 

Please be careful how you post over there. I have seen some "post wars" start just like this.

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Trust me, I won't get involved in any post wars. I am hardly attached to that forum.

 

Just seems to me like mis-information is spreading like wildfire.

 

BTW, I wasn't a total jerk when I posted about the turbocharged car thing, but asked the kid to back up his opinion.

 

Trial and error is a waste when the method you are trying just flat doesn't work.

 

I spoke to a mod and volunteered to do a quick DIY on the right way to remove rust. He is all for it.

 

Evan

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He took the initiation...

 

At least he recognized the mistake of hardmasking a repair area, FOG it in, never tape unless it's a whole panel stopped by a body line!

 

Good Advice on the post, you spelled it out politely and correctly.

 

At least he didn't stuff steel wool into the holes to 'hold up the bondo while it dries'...or even better: Crumpled up Newsprint!

 

Oh, the stuff I've seen over the years...

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Hmmmm... I don't know what is really wrong with that job. It is not a classic that he will keep for 30 years. The rust eliminator does a good job as long as you cover it up with paint.

 

I covered my entire car in OSPHO. It is an excellent rust preventative. Just don't sand it all off when doing the bodywork.

 

OSPHOcoatedmetalinside.jpg

 

OSPHOcoatedmetalpassengerside.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Then primed and seam sealed.

behindseats.jpg

 

 

 

...

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Point is, its not the right way to do it.

 

I am sure alot of those kids over there take alot of pride in thier cars, and would prefer to have a long lasting solution.

 

Evan

 

Also, water enters filler through the rear of the repair so it really would not matter if it was covered in paint.

 

Nice job in your car, it should last you along time!!!

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I found cardboard stuffed into seams, and galvanized sheet metal pop riveted on my car.

 

BJ - I had a hard time getting primer to stick to ospho. I got the best results when I washed it off shortly before it dried... then dried the metal.

 

I stopped using ospho for body work. I just soak bolts in it for a few hours now.

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I asked around on several forums about the OSPHO and other types of phosphate/dichromate primers. I heard all kinds of myths about them in general. I can tell you that proper drying time and cleanup of the excess is hard work and absolutely essential to getting good results. I highly recommend OSPHO. But it does add a great deal of labor to any paint job.

 

I have used POR15, OSPHO, and other types of Rust reformers. The only problem I have ever run into that was not related to improper application or preparation was that the "Rustolium Rust Reformer" will turn into a caustic mightmare when heated by welding on that area.

 

I have had problems with the welding fumes from the Rustolium-rust-reformer causing every pice of exposed steel to flash rust. Whatever this stuff turns into when heated is BAD NEWS! The OSPHO seems to do just fine when heated. I have had no heat related issues with OSPHO coated metal. I have never welded a piece of metal that was coated with POR15, so I have no idea what that does under extreme heat.

 

To give you an idea of how I apply the OSPHO;

I used a garden sprayer to literally SOAK the chassis from head to toe. I liberally sprayed the insides of the frame rails and behind every piece. I used several sponges and a rinse bucket of water to clean up the puddles. I used an air gun to blow the ospho into the seams and behind every piece. I let the Ospho dry to a tacky film and then wiped it down AGAIN with a damp sponge(rinsing often in clean water). I then let it dry for 24 hours, Then I wiped up rough areas AGAIN with a damp sponge.

Throughout this process you will find that excessive OSPHO forms a gooey, bubbly foam that must be knocked down before it will completely dry. You must be careful not remove too much OSPHO or it will become dry and form a whiteish powdery surface. I use a sponge dipped in new OSPHO to recoat any areas that I removed too much of the OSPHO from in the cleanup process.

When you are done you will be left with a TOUGH, dry coating that seems impervious to flash rust from handling. The properly applied coating hold paint VERY WELL>>> but I have noticed that too thin coating will form a whitish powdery suface that is harder to paint.

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