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MJLamberson

Tips for modifying,upgrading,or restoring a Z on a budget.

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Leave everything in the packaging UNTILL you are ready to install. I've always had the "ooo new shiny thing, lets open it" mentality. Also lost a lot of part/tools that way. Or you can be organised :P

 

I actually opposite, and find it to be a time saver.

 

I open and inspect parts when I receive them to make sure everything is there, and in good shape, so that when it comes time to install it I know everything will be good to go.

I put everything back in the packages once the inspection passes. ;)

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Hunting down rust and killing it should be a priority.

 

It's not pretty or glamorous but it will save your car.

 

But you already knew that...

 

Truer words have never been said... I'm killing everything before it has a chance to get worse.If you get distracted by all the cool stuff you can put on your car you forget about the cancer that will destroy everything you created.

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Urethane endlink bushings are a great upgrade.

 

Urethane frays less than rubber and is more durable.

 

Over time and under pressure, urethane shrinks and loses its' spring.

 

Instead of purchasing a new set which can run up to $25.00 for each sway bar, I just put a metal spacer between the nut and the top washer so I can get more torque out of the assembly.

 

There is no danger of overtorquing because of the bolts threads stopping where they stop and the metal tube which acts as a spacer.

 

I am applying extra pressure to the urethane and that is what it was made for.

 

The hardware is grade 8 so it can take the abuse as well...

 

Next; My homemade locking gas cap...

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So I have a '76 280 with the large mouth gas tank filler...

 

The locking gas cap for these was discontinued sometime in the 90's.

 

Maybe they make them now but I have no idea.

 

I chanced upon one from Motorsport but it broke a few years back.

 

So this is what I came up with;

 

A swiveling lock hasp (3.99 or so).

 

A cylinder lock with changeable combo ( 4.99 or so).

 

Some metal work to the OEM gas cap (time and drillbit).

 

It works fine and as an extra added bonus on the inside of the OEM gas cap there is a little hole where the stock hanging chain used to reside.

 

I removed the chain and it is a perfect place for a hide-a-key (.59 keyring).

 

This whole set up works great and it is hidden by the filler cover but for some people that is still not good enough but then they are probably not looking at this thread anyway.

 

Has nothing to do with me...

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Speaking of rust! I found this vid while I was searching for a solution to my bushing removal. This definately qualifies for the budget resto:

 

http://www.brightcove.tv/title.jsp?title=572020791&channel=537308532

 

:2thumbs::rockon:

 

That ROCKS!!!! THANK YOU!!! Rusted suspension pieces, your time has come :twisted:

 

Davy

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I agree with what everyone has said about finding a Z with as little rust as possible. Here are a few more ideas:

 

1. Join a local car/hot rod club. Most of these guys have been doing this for years and already have solution to problems you might be looking at. Just like being here, there is no replacement for a network of friends with knowledge.

 

2. Sometimes it is cheaper (and easier) to wait another month to buy a known good part than it is to buy one you found a good deal on but needs some work to make it right. If you are a master fabricator (and we do seem to have some of those around here) you will be ok, but if you are like a lot of us in the end you will spend more than if you had just bought a new part to start with. If you have to buy a part twice it really wasnt a deal.

 

3. Buy the book "How to restore your Datsun Z-car". I did before I ever turned the first screw on my car. It has pretty good writing and pictures for you to follow along with. If you arent sure how to take something apart and tear up something in the process it will only cost you more.

 

4. I just ordered the "Jaguars that Run" V8 conversion book. A lot of people say there is a ton of good info in it even if you arent going to do the V8 swap. I can neither confirm or deny this, but I am giving it a shot.

 

5. Do as much of the work as you can yourself. Several of my friends have taken body classes at a local community college. Even if you just do the prep work before taking the car to get it painted you can save yourself a ton of money.

 

6. HybridZ search function. I know it gets preached a lot here, but this place has such a huge storage of knowledge it is unreal. Of 3 Z websites I frequent this one is the top notch when it comes to knowledge.

 

This is just my .02 cents, your mileage may vary.

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this is my door that I wraped in sofa vinyl not the best but Im on a budget you know?

 

 

With your door trims i did something similar because i used screws to hold it on. I bought from my local hardware store some plastic screw caps.

A little clear cup screws under the screw head and a black cap fits on top of that. Really cleaned up my door.

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Just ran into this one today: cylinder head temp sensor "went bad", i.e. was reading 7k+ ohms at 90+F ambient, super-rich, fouled plugs, etc.. Cleaned up the pins, same; got out some 800 grit and polished up the sensor end and it suddenly started working fine. Oddly, now my injectors aren't clicking really loud like they used to - they aren't audible at all. Really messed up my shifting.quote]

 

 

On the same topic... if you have a head that does not have a temp sensor, but your car does, it will not run well at all when not plugged in...

Consult your Z maintenance guide for "testing your head temp sensor". It will tell you to Ohm test the sensor, and if it is at a certain level of resistance then it is good and the car runs good...

So by that logic you can run down to your local radio shack (as I did) and pick up a little pack of resistors for like $3... Use one to connect both prongs of the sensor plug together, and "wala" your car's computer sees the correct resistance for the head temp...

Cheaper than drilling and tapping another hole in your head.

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chartoo have any pics?

 

Ok so using screws to hold on the door trims

 

First put the screw in the door but put the clear plastic cup on between the door trim and the screw.

 

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Then just pop on the colour coded cap which hides the screw head

 

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Guest Asta-Rolf's Sis

Our 1971 240Z with a 260Z engine was working flawlessly until the wipers quit on us. Although we're reluctantly selling our baby next month, still would appreciate knowing what could cause the wipers to quit and the potential costs to fix.

 

I, novice, did some searched for Wiper Motors for this year, and found experts who claimed that many wiper motors from many cars would work fine, fear it's so. Searched for specifics for our year car, and found 2 some months back, but didn't trust that one refurbished from a '74 would work. Your expertise/input sure is needed AND appreciated. Although we're selling it AS IS, still want to gather info for the buyer on how to fix the problems.

 

Thanks lots. ":0)

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