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Wrapping your turbo L6 manifold cause problems?


wigenOut-S30

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I noticed when I got back from DNI I had a exhaust leak.. Well the last exhaust stud on the head(closest to the firewall) stripped.. not the stud itself but the threds in the head. My turbo manifold is jet hot coated and I wrapped it with header wrap.. Wondering if the header wrap made the manifold too hot and possible warped it? Has anyone else had anything like this happen?? I am going to probably helicoil the hold to fix it..

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I coated mine with eastwood high-temp cast iron paint and then heat wrapped everything from the head to the end of the down pipe.

 

Never had a single issue with it, nor did I have any rust issues. The manifold was frequently cherry red after high boost runs and still no warpage or issue. I was even running my MIG welded external waste gate off the manifold.

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Yeah i'm aware they cause rust by trapping moisture, but I'm not too worried about that on such a thick cast part. Also the speed shop I bought it from sold me a high temp silicon spray to use on the manifold before wrapping. Not sure if it will prevent corrosion or not.

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He has pallnets upgraded studs. i walked gabe through the helicoil this morning on msn messenger. If his gasket isnt blown out completely he might be able to drill and tap the hole for a helicoil with out taking the manifold off which would be a plus!!!

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I wrapped my the manifold when I had the 280zx turbo motor in my 510 with no issues.

 

I wrapped the stock manifold for the 7m-gte in the 510 with no issues.

 

I wrapped the tubular weld el manifold I made for my 7m with no issues.

 

I've run this car at many many track days and many many road trips, thousands of street miles. Exhaust wrap is not the issue. Using exhaust wrap incorrectly is the issue. Follow the directions and don't overlap too much and you shouldn't have a problem. I do remember having to overlap more than is ideal on my cast manifolds but I can't see this being an issue on material that thick.

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Thanks for all the advice guys. I decided to go ahead and take it all apart tonight, intake mani, exhaust mani and turbo, I was successful in using the helicoil. Expencive little bugger but seemed to work great!! I cut all the heat wrap off for now.. Not sure if I am going to re wrap it or not. My exhaust manifold was jet hot coated and heh.. after it being heat wrapped.. a bunch of it flaked off.. Kinda tells me that the manifold was getting alittle warm eh? I do know this though.. with the heat wrap on there I could touch my intake manifold even after sitting in traffic, which is something I never really could do before.. So I am debating on heat wrapping it again or not.. Some have had great success and others have not.. Oh and Jeff, yeah my gasket was toast.. so a new one is in order.. no biggie though.. Thanks again guys!!

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mine and Aaron's studs aren't exactly based on how hard you can make an 8 x 1.25 stud but rather how much surface area of aluminum do you have on that 8 mm stud?? except for the center 3 studs for the turbo manifold, the rest are 10x1.25 like the top 4 intake bolts. i use 350z exhaust studs i believe. with very wide seated self locking nuts. no issues with stripping and improved surface area on the stud in the head so i can crank on them a bit harder and seal that gasket up nice. i think the studs are 10.9, not the highest but damn good and haven't rusted at all. and because of the wide nuts, no washers are needed! i probably have enough studs and washers for about 2 more sets but its not for the faint of heart. mine started because i had a "notsoeasyout" broken in a broken stud at the end, same one you are describing Gabe, and had to drill through the bolt around the broken extractor and hit some aluminum because the machine shops wouldn't touch it. got it out but had to put in a bigger stud. decided to drill them all out and tap them bigger. i'll probably do it on every motor from hear out. i think Aaron likes his and has good luck with some ARPs in the center as well.

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