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Welding Wastegate Flange to Stock Mani


NCchris

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Searched and found several posts where this was done. 240hoke welded his on with MIG and standard steel wire. I wonder what is the "proper" way to weld a 304 SS weld-el to the stock manifold? I have access to TIG but don't know what rod to use. Also what is the long term integrety of welding this with MIG and wire? How long before cracks appear?

TIA

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I don't know about the "proper way", but I mig welded a stainless WG outlet to my L and 7M manifold and welded mild turbo flanges to both and a 3VZ manifold. I put atleast 40K miles on the 3VZ, maybe 20K on the 7M. The L28 is just race miles. Not one crack on any of them. Didn't pre heat, just welded.

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Agree completely with the above comments. Neither the L28T nor the 7M-GTE are cast iron. Grind off the rust and run a good bead and you will not have problems. I've run multiple track days and thousands of miles with these MIG welded manifolds with regular steel wire with no issues and no cracking.

 

The only issue I've ever had was when a fab shop tried to use a TIG, they used stainless filler rod, never worked. Cracked after a few minutes of the car warming up. MIG welded it myself, never a problem.

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The only issue I've ever had was when a fab shop tried to use a TIG, they used stainless filler rod, never worked. Cracked after a few minutes of the car warming up. MIG welded it myself, never a problem.

 

Thanks Anthony and Clifton, this is exactly what I needed. Mild steel weld-el and my trusty Millermatic 175 is what I wanted to do. Makes it more "mine" than going to a fab shop.

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I've done lots of cars like this. I use thick steel els instead of stainless. For filler rod you want to use something with 50%+ nickel, 90% is better. While steel will work, nickel is the correct rod for welding to cast fixtures. Just make sure the surface is very clean (ground to silver with no pores showing), and really lump in the filler; the casting is not very dense, so it likes to pull away once melted and leaves a big curf.

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Steel is an alloy of Iron. In other words to get certain properties materials are added to iron ...one of these materials is carbon. Once you add carbon you create steel. Iron alone has poor physical properties.

 

But it gets confusing ....steel and iron can in practice have the same level of carbon. BUT...the steel will have other goodies intentionaly added to provide certain characteristics. Depending how much carbon is added along with other materials you get tougher and/or harder steel.... more corrosion protection , easier machinability..etc.

 

Typically steel has more thought put into it.

 

 

Since steel is mostly comprised of iron (with a few exceptions), what is the difference between cast steel and cast iron?
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Steel:

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steel

 

Cast Iron:

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cast_iron

 

Nodular Iron:

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nodular_iron

 

Most of the castings on the 240Z are either nodular iron or medium carbon cast steel. Parts that are exposed to bending loads (steering arms, spindle/hubs, etc.) are made from cast steel. Parts that encase something and are not exposed to tension/bending loads (rear end housings, engine blocks) are nodular iron.

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  • 4 weeks later...

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