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Using Porsche CV Shafts


aziza z

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So is it the cost of this kit that drives people to the 300zx cv conversion instead or just not knowing about this kit? Cause this is the first time ive seen this and i searched this site pretty well and never heard of using poreshe cv shafts? Does this conversion have binding issues like the 300zx conversion?

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Very nice! I wonder if you really need them to be that strong though? I mean, the stock setup, although rough under power, can hold quite a bit of torque as we have seen on this site. Then comes the CV upgrade from the 280ZX's which is a bit cheaper than this kit and reported to be extremely strong. Is this Porsche-Type setup really that much better?

 

If you are in a pinch and building an all out racer, this is certainly a good deal simply because it's turnkey. However, I don't think it's one of those must-have upgrades if you are on a budget or building a fast street Z.

 

Nice to have options though and this looks well engineered.

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Yes cost as in the past our $$ to the USD meant these were at least twice the price of the sale price in the US then you add shipping and duty = way way too pricey for us in the past. But now it is could be considered but it is still up there on the cost.

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I can try take a few photo's if you like, i bought this kit about 6ish months ago and have been running it behind a 148hp turbo l24 with a KAAZ clutch type limited slip.

(still collecting parts for my L28 build :D). At the time my uni's were going, so i thought I'd just upgrade there rather then fit the uni's. I haven't had a problem with them yet. In fact I'll go take some pictures now and see if I can put them on this computer.

 

05062008084.jpg

 

Below is just a picture to show how "low" the car is

05062008086.jpg

05062008083.jpg

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aziza z,

Myself and Jerry from ZRaceProducts have been working on the same thing, we just did not realize that someone else already had them and was selling them. As for your question about strength and angularity we were going to advertise a guarantee up to 700 ft/lbs at the wheels (the manufacturer rates them at 800 ft/lbs *for the size shown in the ebay add), I do not recall the angularity for them right now but they do have a 12mm plunge depth for each end of the shaft giving a total of 24mm (almost 1 inch) of plunge. The plunge is the amount of length change on the axle.

 

Dragonfly

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Those look like a nice option if you are making big horsepower and drag race routinely. If nothing else they give you piece of mind.

 

A way to keep track of how much your axles are getting abused is to paint a straight line down the axle. It's not a guaranteed method, but axles often show signs of twisting before they fail. BTW, that's a bit of information I got from some drag racing buddies not my personal experience.

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While I'm not the oldest person on here, of all the people in the racing community I talk to and PCA members, I have NEVER heard of anybody destroying a Porsche CV. Put those on and forget about them, just clean and repack when the rubber starts to go. I wish I knew about these before I started swapping an entire subframe from another car onto my Z.

 

-Ed

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I've never, and most likely never will have problems with mine. The reason I went with Porsche joints was the ubiquity of parts to purchase. You can get these just about anywhere (but that point is mute in light of their great strength and reliability).

 

Pros: The other reason I built a set was because I moved the differential over toward the driver 1" to help straighten the driveshaft. Then I just had new grooves machined to the shorter/longer required lengths of the axles (I started out with a generic pair of 930 axles from Sway-A-Way). Lastly, my joints (and my 930 joints are wider than these) clear the rear sway bar without any rubbing on the boots.

 

Cons: Price (but it's half as much as I paid for mine to get the machine work and parts).

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'd be more worried about the stub axle myself,especially if you thought you could just bolt this conversion in and have a bullet proof rear end.....remember those original stubs have had 30 years of potential abuse already

at the very least swap them out for new OEM ones.

also for those guys with the weaker 240z stubs it's probably worth upgrading to the stronger/more splines of the later models

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So is it the cost of this kit that drives people to the 300zx cv conversion instead or just not knowing about this kit? Cause this is the first time ive seen this and i searched this site pretty well and never heard of using poreshe cv shafts? Does this conversion have binding issues like the 300zx conversion?

 

Not to rain on your parade, but this kit was discussed over a year ago on this site, and I actually revived it 3 weeks ago with some points I felt worth mentioning: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120354

 

As stated on that thread, from my research these CV's most closely resemble VW type 2's dimensionaly, but with the stronger axles and cages it's really not a fair comparision. From a marketing standpoint I don't blame Todd for listing them as Porsche CV's; makes them much more appealing and they're so similar anyways. They jury is out as for what HP they can handle, but I'm guessing around 500 in certain applications.

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Actually, Being that I've been eating/breathing/sleeping porsches for the last 18 months, I have heard of a number of Porsche CV axles snapping, and they've all been on 750-1000HP monsters with much abused using drag radials and full on drag slicks.

 

These CV axles are pretty much bomb-proof. They're expensive, but honestly, I think I paid more for my Q45 rear axle setup and those require 12 bolts per axle as well.

 

Mike

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