hughdogz Posted August 24, 2008 Share Posted August 24, 2008 I sure picked the wrong time of the year to start this one, but after much patience and research, I finally laid down two black stripes!! I have a stock R200 with CV axles and I bought a (slightly used) KAAZ 1.5-way CLSD off ebay that was previously installed in an S13 / 240SX. I found that the unit doesn't have provisions for the internal snap-ring, so I had to settle for "floating". Another minor detail was that one of the 280ZX CV stub axles (splined portion) was about 1/4" too long and would bottom out inside the LSD unit. I just used a chop-saw to cut the hardened steel. It got pretty hot since it is a friction blade. Then I chamfered it, but I didn't do much quenching...at least I don't think it annealed too much (cooling too slowly). Here is a spare that I practiced on: I took it out for a spin across town and it felt pretty good. It kind of had the knocking / clunking / chatter in sharp, slow turns at the beginning. I suppose the tube CLSD fluid wasn't fully mixed into the gear oil yet... I even made my own pneumatic pump to fill the gear oil into the diff housing! (piece of cake) Sorry I haven't posted pics of the LSD carrier itself. I did get the side lash set and new bearings pressed on, so that added ~$75 to the cost of the project, but at least I'm sure that the contact patch between the pinion and ring gear is right on! Now to see if I can get a grip at the track next week! Bye-bye stock open carrier (whoo hoo!!!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v8dats Posted August 24, 2008 Share Posted August 24, 2008 show the stripes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted August 24, 2008 Share Posted August 24, 2008 WWWHHHHOOOOOO! Oustanding another ZX sporting more rodding! Congrats HughdogZ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slownrusty Posted August 24, 2008 Share Posted August 24, 2008 Awesome work Hugh!!! Congrats on a tricky install and I tip my hat too you fine sir! Bye Bye Peg Leg! LOL! Regards - Yasin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted August 24, 2008 Share Posted August 24, 2008 Good Job! Have you looked into that "ultimate wastegate" fitment yet??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hughdogz Posted August 24, 2008 Author Share Posted August 24, 2008 Hey thanks for the compliments guys, I appeciate that!! show the stripes! Meh, the're not that good...I did it at ~9pm last night and just took the pics now: I need to learn how to do the "Double Snakes" on the Foggy burnouts like BRAAP does on Lusted road!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hughdogz Posted August 24, 2008 Author Share Posted August 24, 2008 Good Job! Have you looked into that "ultimate wastegate" fitment yet??? Hi Brad-Man, I still think it will work. I'm even more confident since I found a 3" Diameter, 3" CLR mandrel tube for the downpipe. Firewall clearance is still and issue for me since S130's have about 3" less room from the motor mounts to the firewall compared to S30's. I'm planning on a winter project to do the whole manifold / turbo / wastegate / exhaust system. By eyeball I still think it should work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted March 10, 2009 Share Posted March 10, 2009 How about more details about your pneumatic pump? I'm real tired of pumping that sh*t in my hand.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hughdogz Posted March 10, 2009 Author Share Posted March 10, 2009 Use a piece of ~3/8" hose maybe 2 => 2.5' long Use a cheapo "air duster" from harbor freight (the one with the long wand, not the stubby ones with holes on the side) Drill a hole in the cap slightly smaller than the OD of the hose. Pull the hose though the cap about the same depth of the container. This will keep the hose end submerged in the oil Drill a hole at the top of the container of gear oil that is the size of the wand tip (the tip tapers, so it will seal pressing it on the container) Screw the cap on the container, and place the other end of the hose in the diff filler hole (of course) Pressurize the container, and it will force the oil up through the hose into the diff. I think it took less than a minute at ~20 psi. It sure beats squeezing a gear oil bottle with a hose on the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted March 10, 2009 Share Posted March 10, 2009 I found that the unit doesn't have provisions for the internal snap-ring, so I had to settle for "floating". Just noticed this. Be careful about ride height with floating side axles. Its common for swing arm cars that are run very low to pull out an axle that's not retained Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 10, 2009 Share Posted March 10, 2009 Cutting axles like you did should be fine. You can go buy full float axles for BIG diffs like Dana 80s that have about 3" of spline on the end, and they're meant to be cut to length with an abrasive saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZED28T Posted May 27, 2009 Share Posted May 27, 2009 I love it!! So it was that easy... 1. Buy R200 CV type Diff 2. Buy R200 Short nose lsd From S13 3. Cut Cvs to lenght 4. Install & do burnouts What diff oil did you use and did you have any trouble with the stock crown wheel ect? If it was that easy i might do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BleachZee Posted May 27, 2009 Share Posted May 27, 2009 I love it!!So it was that easy... 1. Buy R200 CV type Diff 2. Buy R200 Short nose lsd From S13 3. Cut Cvs to lenght 4. Install & do burnouts 1. Buy R200 open 3.7 diff from 1987-89 300ZX only because the earlier R200 doesn't have the same bolts to bolt in the KAAZ LSD 4. get the side lash set and new bearings pressed on by an experienced shop + $75 5. Then do burnouts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Z Posted May 30, 2009 Share Posted May 30, 2009 With this modification do you need to have the 300zx CVs or do the S30 CVs work after modification? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BleachZee Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 The Z31 open diff accepts 280ZX CV half-shafts, possibly even S30 U-joints shafts. Its a normal R200 on the outside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrismiller5157 Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 I must have missed this part 0.o Why can't we use the 280zxt rear end (354)?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ovenfood Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 From what I have seen you could use a C200 CLSD if you have a early R200 open with the 10mm bolts in the ring gear (I am yet to try as my car is broken at the moment). Though there is the same problem mine and all I have seen don't have provisions for the internal snap-ring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djz Posted April 28, 2011 Share Posted April 28, 2011 Back from the dead. Hmm I got my axles in without shortening them, did you notice a problem before you shortened them? My KAAZ centre had 13mm crownwheel bolts so I had to have spacers made up to suit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ovenfood Posted April 28, 2011 Share Posted April 28, 2011 What was you "KAAZ" designed for? I always thought short R200's had 12mm crown wheel bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PurePontiacKid Posted April 29, 2011 Share Posted April 29, 2011 13mm bolts were for VLSD units(12mm's were for the open ones), which is weird considering he got his stock axles to work, since the VLSD has two different side axles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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