1 fast z Posted November 4, 2008 Share Posted November 4, 2008 Ok, I am tired of trying different clutches, it gets expensive and a PITA. I need a clutch that will hold 600 foot lbs+. 240mm, 6 or 9 bolt setup. I dont want a heavy disk, as it just tears up syncros. I am considering adapting a 250mm setup out of a z32tt setup. I have used clutchnet.com red racing clutch and their racing 6 puk disk, and it slips at 20 PSI. I want to get to 30 PSI, but it is impossible untill I get a better clutch. I do not mind a stiff pedal at all. I dont want it to chatter like crazy though, as it is a daily driver. I run 315 wide slicks as daily driver tires, so it is hard to make those tires spin. I dont want to spend a thousand dollars on an HKS setup either. Any suggestions? I am contimplating building my own dual diafram (sp?) setup also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc052685 Posted November 4, 2008 Share Posted November 4, 2008 spec says their stage 5 is good to 699 ftlbs (and for only $200 more you get an aluminum pressure plate) part number SN455 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01vincer6 Posted November 4, 2008 Share Posted November 4, 2008 spec 3+ is what I am using now on my ls1 trans. Nice for street and excellent for track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted November 4, 2008 Share Posted November 4, 2008 I personally love my ACT now that the rivet issue was fixed! I have the full faced spring disc which is only good for 512 ft/lb!! EDIT - damn looks like ACT doesn't manufacture one that handles more power.. *sigh* Wasn't someone on this forum using a twin disc setup using an automatic flex plate? I believe it was 510six shoot him a PM http://www.10000rpm.com/ << linky to the clutch setup he is using Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgkurz Posted November 4, 2008 Share Posted November 4, 2008 1 fast z, The only clutch I found that could hold the torque is one offered by Clutch Specialties. It uses a 240mm ACT clutch cover with a sintered-iron sprung disc. The co-efficient of friction actually increases as the clutch gets hot. I had it slip once when it was cold but after it was warmed up I had no problems. This is the same clutch that TimZ, TimO, and Speeder use. I would LOVE to find a streetable clutch that didn't slip or chatter. For the time being the Clutch Specialties unit is the only one that has held the power. For now I'm choosing a clutch that is guaranteed not to slip until I can find something more friendly. I would be very excited if you could find a way to use a 250mm setup. I personally would help with development costs if it meant I could use a Z32DETT clutch. Please let us know if you pursue that project. On a side note, I do not trust most clutch manufactures torque specs. My experience is that the rating is not necessarily for cars that have a torque curve that ramps quickly. If the torque comes on gradually then the manufactures specs might apply. http://www.clutchspecialties.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted November 4, 2008 Share Posted November 4, 2008 7 3/4" Custom Dual Disc with inertia ring. If you have a big enough mill, you can make the flywheel from billet yourself, and utilize the same common components for the cover, disc, and slipper ring that the NASCAR guys use. You will rebuild it for around $300 a pop, but it's a fully organic lining with the same slippability. Just make sure the splines in the center are hardened correctly as they have been know to shear well before they should! Without the flywheel it's under $700 for the AP Multi Disc. With flywheel, depending on who makes it, it's between $1000 to $1500. I just say inertia ring because most of the multi-disc clutches get a bad name because they are low inertia units, and drivability suffers. Make that flywheel with an inertia ring (at least some, and not just a .375" vestigal flexplate looking thing to hold the ring gear in the right spot...) and it becomes easier to get good starts and slip it a bit even with the quick in/out action of the flatter diaphragm setup on the multi-disc setups. They have been using that kind of setup on the street in Japan for over 25+ years. HKS has them for about the same price, but you got to go to them for the rebuild parts. With the NASCAR stuff, it's less expensive and you can easily get all the stuff redone within the USA. Even surplus NASCAR parts are available for 'econo rebuilds'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 fast z Posted November 4, 2008 Author Share Posted November 4, 2008 We have used smaller diameter multi disk clutches before and we are not happy with them. They will NOT last, plain and simple. They are made to be an on off setup, with not much slipage. My car is a daily driver, and has to get slipped about every half mile when driving in town. If I had a old worn out or just a junk clutch from a z32, I could see if my idea would work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted November 4, 2008 Share Posted November 4, 2008 A clutch is a wearing part. Multiple disc setups have a thinner facing simply as a function of the area allowed. I was going through a disc a month in Japan when I was running around. If it got heavy use, the single discs were wearing out sometimes 3 times a month. So frequent 'rebuilds' of a clutch that actually holds, has smooth engagement, and can shift lighning fast sounds like a good trade-off for me. Multi-Discs: they hold. They won't chatter. And they're great on the synchros. If you don't want to spend $1000 for a clutch that has all those attributes, I might say it's going to be tought to fill that bill. Indestructible Parts with all the features you want. Low Price. Pick one. BTW, I don't know that 200mm is considered 'small diameter', for a multi-disc that's freakin HUGE! Most of the stuff for racing is 127mm, or the new carbon stuff is 101mm! I specifically said 7 3/4" multi-disc, not 5"... My suggestion was to use some of the Endurance Facings more used in Rally Competition instead of the Sintered Metal facings normally used for light vehicles. As long as the bellhousing is properly ventilated, you can even use some of the lower coeficient of friction metal facings and get some slippage for street manners. "On-Off" and vague engagement point is a valid concern, but with experience it gets easier to drive them right. And failing that the linkage is fairly easy to change for less advantage and more feel on the pedal. It's a proven formula. No secrets here. The new frictional materials make single discs more common...but you are already seeing the issues with heavy discs... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
janaka Posted November 4, 2008 Share Posted November 4, 2008 i'm running a McLeod 800series clutch kit (pressure plate/flywheel) and I think for street its great. I'm told it can handle double stock LS1 power and I've seen on signs of slipping under any circumstances but I'm not making 600+ at the wheels by any means. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S30TRBO Posted November 4, 2008 Share Posted November 4, 2008 Multi-Discs: they hold. They won't chatter. And they're great on the synchros. Tony, My OS Giken TS2BS didn't chatter at first but its starting to when you engage it. You know as well as I do from spending time in Japan those nasty 3.1 carb w/ twin or even triple plate OS Giken or HKS clutch are talking to you something awful yet oh so beautiful. Listen to the startup: If you don't want to spend $1000 for a clutch that has all those attributes, I might say it's going to be tought to fill that bill. Indestructible Parts with all the features you want. Low Price. Pick one Bryan, Tony is right just bite the bullet; you will be happy you did. BTW, I don't know that 200mm is considered 'small diameter', for a multi-disc that's freakin HUGE! Tell me about it mine is 204mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexicoker Posted November 4, 2008 Share Posted November 4, 2008 If you want something that will hold the torque, last a long time, and offer smooth engagement... carbon-carbon is the way to go.. High initial expense, but in your case it could save you money in the long run because they last a really long time. Call my work: http://www.taylor-race.com They will find you something that can work, carbon-carbon or otherwise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
510six Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 I also used a Clutch Specailties sintred iron clutch, it worked great with over 500rwh street/ strip on slicks. It did become a real PITA and somewhat expensive to rebuild the pressure plate and replace the flywheel wear surface every 5k-7k miles. I finally bit the bullet and contacted 10,000 rpm first using a dual disc ( which slipped at 450 rwh) then a tripple disc kevlar clutch that is supposed to be good for over 600 rwh, it wasn`t cheap but it is easier to drive than the sintred iron on/off switch even if the whole assembly only weighs 15 lbs. But , the clutch cost $1500. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chemicalblue Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 This is what I use, Ive only had to replace one due to oil contamination. http://www.clutchmasters.com/shop/?page=shop/browse&MakeModelID=33445&MakeID=25&Engine=2.8L+Turbo&FromYear=1981&ToYear=1983 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 fast z Posted December 12, 2008 Author Share Posted December 12, 2008 Well I got a Z32 Twin turbo RPS brand 6 puk disk and Heavy Duty pressure plate (thanks clifton!). I setup an aftermarket steel flywheel and centered the pressure plate and re-dowelled and re-drilled the flywheel to accept the 250mm setup. Took the inertia ring out of the flywheel, and got it down to 15 lbs, from its stock 23. Balenced everything about an hour ago, and everything came out really good. It is supposed to hold 660 FT LBS of torqe, so it should be perfect for what I need. I wish I would of just done this about 4 clutches ago. Anyways for those wondering if it can be done, yes it can. You can put a 250mm setup on the stock flywheel. You need an aftermarket flywheel though, that doesnt have the clearence groove in it on the outboard of the disk like the stock ones do though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 You can also use a flywheel off of a pathfinder and a few other nissan trucks. Its a 240mm and it doesnt have the "cooling ring". It only has 6 bolts for the PP though. Which wouldnt be a big deal if your redrilling it. I have one in my car at the moment. And thanks for the info on putting a bigger clutch on also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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