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markrolston@mac.com

Progress on my insane VQ35HR 240Z project

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I wish I had more but here's a small bit of progress to show. The mufflers and exhaust exit is tacked into place. Next up is to place the exhaust cutout valves in-between the in and out pipes of the mufflers. Also shown is the beautiful intake manifold sitting on it's own. I'm so glad we took the time and effort to make it but phew! was it a PITA to make.

 

 

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Those are some pretty sexy plenum "bottles" Mark.  I see you're sticking with the stock TB's.  Were you going to leave them dry, or are you going to extend the water circulation to them.  I imagine, you're not going to want to let those heat any of the air entering your plenum since it's already been cooled.

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Those are some pretty sexy plenum "bottles" Mark.  I see you're sticking with the stock TB's.  Were you going to leave them dry, or are you going to extend the water circulation to them.  I imagine, you're not going to want to let those heat any of the air entering your plenum since it's already been cooled.

That's a good question. I had not yet considered what to do. Cooler is better but more plumbing is a pita. I might just rig up a external cooler for the tuning session and see if it makes a difference in the tune. If it does then I'll run permanent lines.

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I imagine you'll just want to leave them disconnected, the Stock HR has them connected to help normalize the air flowing into the plenum. That's actually extra heat since it's engine coolant that's "cooling" them.  In a car like yours that's heat you don't need after the IC. So unless you're going to make a secondary cooling circuit with an extra pump etc, I'd leave them disconnected.  I don't think they'll effect the Idle Air settings.  (See FSM pg EC-77) It mentions warming up the car, but I don't think that's going to make a big difference. just hose around them or close off the connection. 

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another small muffler build update: added the cutoff valve to the piping. We had to create a remote mount for the motor that actuates the valve. The exit pipe is longer right now than it will be in the end. We left it long unit we're done with the diffuser to make sure they line up nicely.

 

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Interesting, So you're putting the ECU facing outward  on the passenger side?  I was going to mount mine basically up under the dash on the firewall behind the heater piping. Obviously you won't have that so this is a pretty easy location for you, Though rotating it 90 deg CW might be an idea or even putting it in the kick plate similar to the stock 350Z location.  It's up to you of course.  Did you decide if you're going to include the BCU or if you're going to have uprev delete that NATS for you?

 

Those wheel wells look good. Certainly not an easy part to shape.  Are you going to leave the aluminum, or glass in rounded uppers?

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What type of foam did you use for your intake?  i used some "Great Stuff" canned insulation foam you can buy at home depot to make molds for a glider wing i built but it didn't turn out as nice as yours there was tons of holes and lacked uniformity.  Also what type of core material did you use for your splitter? great project mine will get built eventually so enjoy being on top while it lasts lol.

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What type of foam did you use for your intake?  i used some "Great Stuff" canned insulation foam you can buy at home depot to make molds for a glider wing i built but it didn't turn out as nice as yours there was tons of holes and lacked uniformity.  Also what type of core material did you use for your splitter? great project mine will get built eventually so enjoy being on top while it lasts lol.

you have to cover the foam with clay to get a smooth surface for the carbon. The splitter has a balsa wood core. By first z has a plastic sheet base with klegecell over it. After both tries I'd recommend a klegecell core. I love that stuff. basically really stiff light foam. 

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Interesting, So you're putting the ECU facing outward  on the passenger side?  I was going to mount mine basically up under the dash on the firewall behind the heater piping. Obviously you won't have that so this is a pretty easy location for you, Though rotating it 90 deg CW might be an idea or even putting it in the kick plate similar to the stock 350Z location.  It's up to you of course.  Did you decide if you're going to include the BCU or if you're going to have uprev delete that NATS for you?

 

Those wheel wells look good. Certainly not an easy part to shape.  Are you going to leave the aluminum, or glass in rounded uppers?

I'm not sure what uprev will do. I'll visit that when I get to it. Any advice? As for the wheel wells, they will remain aluminum and get spray coated with undercoat on the wheel side and in a few areas like the back hatch bed it will be covered with a few layers of CF for aesthetics and some basic vibration dampening. So basically in the end you will see a mix of all three- Al, Cf, and undercoat.

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We have some progress to show on the rear diffuser. I showed the original wood mold a few weeks ago. Well this week we pulled our first part. You have to use your imagination a bit to see the final result. The flared plane at the back will get trimmed to about 1/8" and glued next to other identical parts to form a five channel diffuser with the exhaust pipes coming out of the center channel. That channel will be cut to allow for the pipes. Also the bottom of each of these channels will be trimmed to within an inch of the area where it flattens out under the suspension arms. That means the whole channel will not be as deep as it appears here. Lastly, the material is still covered in release agent so it'll look much nicer once it's cleaned up and polished.

 

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Edited by markrolston@mac.com

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Pretty Cool Mark, it's awesome to see the fabbed parts.  nice job on the moulds too.  Is your suspension going to hit that defuser on the down travel? It doesn't look like it would hit much, but may be possible. Though your car is still off it's wheels so that's probably fine. 

 

As for the Engine management.  I'd still go with the BCU/ECU/NATSKEY combo. You'd have to have the BCU mated to your ECU with Consult3 but it shouldn't be a big deal. That's really 90% of making it run.  Uprev removes that and hacks the harnesses together so you don't need the BCU, but then you can't pull info from the ECU w/o using other software/laptop whereas with the BCU you can use the AC amp and get things like temp and such through the OEM interface, but You're going to be pretty far from that. The other idea though, is if you do use NATS then you can use the stock key and security system, which is better than nothing. Not that I think you're going to be particularly worried about that. You're going to have a bit of tuning to go through anyway with the turbos and all so it might be a moot point.  it's wether you want to spend the extra $ to remove a pound or so of weight and some functionality from your car.  Personally, I'm keeping as much of the oem wiring as possible, for function rather than weight. This was I can use a lot of the 350Z systems such as cruise, power windows, gauges, interval wipers, heated seats etc. My focus is a bit different than yours though.

 

Phar

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