240zdan Posted September 25, 2009 Share Posted September 25, 2009 The purpose of this thread is to give people an idea of what type of torque you are applying to a certain type of rear end. My setup is as follows Torque: 280wheel ft lbs Setup: Stock 240z stub axles, stock 240z halfshafts, R200 open rear end, 225/50/16 street tires I am about to upgrade my rear end and would like as much input as possible. So far I have acquired/made: R32 gtr CLSD with 4.11 4 GTR cvs 280z stub axles custom made adaptors to fit GTR cvs I want to build a rear end to take 300-400 ft lbs of torque on sticky drag radials no problem. Please list your setup and how many ft lbs of torque you have dynoed, along with any breakages that may have occured. Discuss the TTT rear end kit, MM rear billet pieces, OEM pieces, anything that comes to mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnjdragracing Posted September 25, 2009 Share Posted September 25, 2009 (edited) Max Torque: 605.20 Rear Wheel Setup: Stock 280z stub axles, Modern MotorSports companion flanges to accept CV axles. 300ZXT CV axles, R200 welded posi differentials, 355 gear setup 28x9x15 ET Drag Slicks . The purpose of this thread is to give people an idea of what type of torque you are applying to a certain type of rear end. My setup is as follows Torque: 280wheel ft lbs Setup: Stock 240z stub axles, stock 240z halfshafts, R200 open rear end, 225/50/16 street tires I am about to upgrade my rear end and would like as much input as possible. So far I have acquired/made: R32 gtr CLSD with 4.11 4 GTR cvs 280z stub axles custom made adaptors to fit GTR cvs I want to build a rear end to take 300-400 ft lbs of torque on sticky drag radials no problem. Please list your setup and how many ft lbs of torque you have dynoed, along with any breakages that may have occured. Discuss the TTT rear end kit, MM rear billet pieces, OEM pieces, anything that comes to mind. Edited September 26, 2009 by jnjdragracing added some Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SATAN Posted September 26, 2009 Share Posted September 26, 2009 My rear end on my z31 consists of... 1988 300zx CLSD modified to 6 clutch shimmed to 75 lb/ft break away. Stock 29 spline input shafts into the diff. Sleeved stock z31turbo half shafts with 4130 Cr-Mo .081" thick pipe. Mark Williams large axle stubs and companion flanges. 4140 Cr-Mo through hardened. ARP wheel studs. Differential and rear subframe are solid mounted with steel brackets. Unfortunately, I have not run the car with this set up. My last setup was an entirely stock 88 turbo rear end. I managed a 1.67 60 foot time in a 3200 lb car (with driver) with that. Made about 450whp, don't know the torque. This time around, I am estimating 850whp and about 6-700 ft lbs torque. Hoping to hold 1.4 or better 60' times with same weight car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc052685 Posted September 26, 2009 Share Posted September 26, 2009 328lb/ft on factory r200 and half shafts. Not sure of what model companion flanges. Now has a 100 shot on it also, so take a guess at what kinda torque..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
janaka Posted September 26, 2009 Share Posted September 26, 2009 353+ lb/ft torque (haven't dyno'd this season was 353lb/ft last yr before more mods which dropped .9s off my ET) Stock open R200 with 3.90:1 gears custom companion adapters with 300zx TT CV shafts Stock 280z stub axles Street tires: 245/45/16 Drag Radials: Mickey Thompson ET Drag Radials 235/60/15 Best 60': 1.7799 on DR's = 11.77 @119.98 MM billet awesomeness is just that, awesome. IMO the adapters a tad high in price BUT they are beautiful pieces and if they were within my budget I would have bought them without blinking. I'm not sure at what point the billet stub axles are needed. I know I'm not near the fastest guy on here but with having a manual and launching via the drop and pound method it shocks the bejesus out of everything and I haven't broke anything this year at the track or on the street. Last year I snapped a stock half shaft (at the u joint) on my 2nd or 3rd run with this method and DR's. My only changes were the companion flanges and TT shafts. If/when I break the stubs I will pony up the money for the billet ones most likely. I personally feel that the upgrade to the Z31 4bolt shafts will suffice for 85% of the Hybrid Z's power levels and abuse. The other 15% are just silly people with tons of power (i'm envious of those people). I would tend to say that most people that are breaking stub axles either had hairline fractures in them from the manufacturing process and 30+ yrs of wear/tear on them that ended up causing a failure. But I'm not nearly as technically knowledgable as others on here, thats simply my hypothesis on the topic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SATAN Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 353+ lb/ft torque (haven't dyno'd this season was 353lb/ft last yr before more mods which dropped .9s off my ET) Stock open R200 with 3.90:1 gears custom companion adapters with 300zx TT CV shafts Stock 280z stub axles Street tires: 245/45/16 Drag Radials: Mickey Thompson ET Drag Radials 235/60/15 Best 60': 1.7799 on DR's = 11.77 @119.98 MM billet awesomeness is just that, awesome. IMO the adapters a tad high in price BUT they are beautiful pieces and if they were within my budget I would have bought them without blinking. I'm not sure at what point the billet stub axles are needed. I know I'm not near the fastest guy on here but with having a manual and launching via the drop and pound method it shocks the bejesus out of everything and I haven't broke anything this year at the track or on the street. Last year I snapped a stock half shaft (at the u joint) on my 2nd or 3rd run with this method and DR's. My only changes were the companion flanges and TT shafts. If/when I break the stubs I will pony up the money for the billet ones most likely. I personally feel that the upgrade to the Z31 4bolt shafts will suffice for 85% of the Hybrid Z's power levels and abuse. The other 15% are just silly people with tons of power (i'm envious of those people). I would tend to say that most people that are breaking stub axles either had hairline fractures in them from the manufacturing process and 30+ yrs of wear/tear on them that ended up causing a failure. But I'm not nearly as technically knowledgable as others on here, thats simply my hypothesis on the topic. I don't think that is really the case. A lot of the stub axles break simply due to drive line shock. Streetfighter has a 2JZ in his z31 making 700whp on stock z31 axle stubs. He does not race it at the track though. Many other guys DO race them at the track with FAR less power, but yet manage to break theirs on the launches. People have even cryo treated good inspected one's. Results are still the same. Wheel hop has a lot to do with it also. Again, it is just driveline shock coupled with substantial torque. I can't help but think that the 280zx axle stubs are stronger than the z31 stubs though. jnjdragracing is popping wheelies on his stock stubs! You don't see that with z31 axle stubs. People break those with as little as 350ft/lbs and some drive line shock. I agree the z31 half shafts are good for the majority of people, but they do still break. This is why I sleeved mine with 4130. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vashonz Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 300 ft lbs @2800rpm on a mustang dyno Stock 240z stub axles Modified 280zxt CV's and halfshafts (the splines are the same as 240z) R200 3.54 with Clutch LSD 245/45/16 Tires Right now the weak point is the series 1 transmission, so I'm taking it easy on launches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 (edited) 630.6 rwtq, Ford 9 inch, stock resplined axles, detroit locker, 4.56 gears, 29.5 x 9 x 15 slicks, ladder bars, coil over shocks. Absolutely no issues ever. I have a jig to narrow 10 bolt, 12 bolt, 9 inch and dana 60 axle housings Edited September 29, 2009 by dr_hunt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John C Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 (edited) Well I'm still running stock 71 240 half shafts and stubs.Rear is a 3.73 r200 (welded diff) with few hundred passes on this setup plus years of street abuse. I have broken 1 halfshaft u joint with a 406 sbc on 150 shot of spray and 1 with a 496 BBC on a 210 shot of juice.The car has run 10.23 with a sbc on spray.BBC ran 9.36 @ 148 with an easy launch on a 150 shot of juice, et streets and mufflers. Edited September 30, 2009 by John C pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SATAN Posted October 4, 2009 Share Posted October 4, 2009 Well I'm still running stock 71 240 half shafts and stubs.Rear is a 3.73 r200 (welded diff) with few hundred passes on this setup plus years of street abuse. I have broken 1 halfshaft u joint with a 406 sbc on 150 shot of spray and 1 with a 496 BBC on a 210 shot of juice.The car has run 10.23 with a sbc on spray.BBC ran 9.36 @ 148 with an easy launch on a 150 shot of juice, et streets and mufflers. What exactly is "an easy launch" when you are running a 9.36 @ 148mph? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John C Posted October 4, 2009 Share Posted October 4, 2009 Satan I would like to be able to kill it off the line like jnjdragracing,but I leave the line at 1800 and quickly shove the throttle down engaging the nitrous 30-40 feet from the starting line.I used to run 1.46 60 foots with the small block and ran a best of 1.50 60 foot with the big block on an "easy launch".The engine is built for nitrous and there is a fogger kit in the garage along with a progressive nos controller to be installed. I am fairly confident that it could be in the eights with this same rear setup,but I would have to be very careful on how I launched. I also have an r230 rear sitting in the garage to be installed at a later date. 726 hp 664tq flywheel on pumpgas no nos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 Max Torque: 605.20 Rear Wheel Setup: Stock 280z stub axles, Modern MotorSports companion flanges to accept CV axles. 300ZXT CV axles, R200 welded posi differentials, 355 gear setup 28x9x15 ET Drag Slicks . What times are you running with that car now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nemesis500548 Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 Wow, I'm relieved to see good power and fast times without having to convert to a solid rear axle. I'm about to embark on a 500HP build and was afraid a semi-stock rear end just wouldn't hold up. But seeing what's posted hear (and some nice wheelstand pics) I think I'll be just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mayolives Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 jnddragracing...........QUOTE:Max Torque: 605.20 Rear Wheel Man..........I would kill for that kind of torque in a road race z car. I could even keep up with the real fast guys like JT1, Mark and TitaniumZ. te he he Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
janaka Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 new current rear end setup. . . . . . busted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 new current rear end setup.. . . . . busted. What rear diff was that? Open R200? I still have the stock 3.54 open R200, but I just 'welded' it yesterday to hopefully aid in the traction dept and keep what happened to yours from happening to mine. I am also hoping that since mine is an auto vs a manual it will live until I have the funds for something more street friendly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
janaka Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 That 'was' my R200 3.90:1 diff. Yes that is an open differential* auto should be a lot easier than a 4500rpm clutch drop on heated Drag Radials on a decently prepped track. lmao. bang. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsommer Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 Rear end is LSD with finned powder coated cover, up front we have a OEM Datsun front dif mount with a Ron Tyler bracket bolted in and an Energy Suspension poly mount sandwiched in between. Installing the RT mount was for us a PITA! First the top bolt did not line up with the mount hole, second we had to remove material from the TOP of the ES mount. Well it's in there now, nice and solid. The furthest rear X member was cut leaving the two bushing retainers, then using another custom piece from my brothers here at hybridz is the bar you see connecting the two sides together. MML coil overs and Tokico 5 ways, everything is powder coated. Should be good from 180HP to 450Hp I did have the axels cryo treated just in case Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zdan Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 almost done my rear end... will post up pics when its done. i went with gtr r32 r200 lsd 280z stubs my own custom cv adaptors hoping it will hold 400ft lbs on 225 45 16s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wigenOut-S30 Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 Im running RT front diff mount , rubber chevy 350 trans sandwiched in with the stock Z mount. 3.7LSD from a 88 turboZ31, 280ZX turbo CV axles and poly bushings. 390Ft lbs of Tq. my best 60ft to date was a 1.6.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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