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Crazyoctopus 1972 240z build up (long first post)


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So yesterday we woke up, got some anti-zombie juice, and then started to attack the install.

 

The first issues that we ran into were the fact that the alternator and the intake manifold would be hitting on the stock motor mounts and the hood latch.

 

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inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

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inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

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inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

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inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

 

So we cut the mounts off, and in one case beat the **** out of it, and removed the alternator. Since Volvo's have two stock alternator locations I will be using the other one on the driver's side engine; I am gonna have to re-buy that bracket as I threw it away after I got the lower one.

 

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inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

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inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

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inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

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inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

 

We put the engine back in the car to see where about it sat in the car.

 

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inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

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inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

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inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

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inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

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inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

 

we removed the engine and cut part of the stock transmission mount on the driver's side for some transmission clearance.

 

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inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

 

That is about as far back as the transmission will sit. So it looks like I will have to enlarge the hole, as well as design my own shift lever to make it work.

 

After a quick peek at how the engine sits we cut up a quick few pieces and made a temp mount to see how it would fare.

 

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inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

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inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

 

But before we could continue Martin needed to sharpen his mini-sword.

 

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inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

 

a couple tacs here and there

 

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inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

 

but when we put in the metal we found out that the motor mounts don't fit exactly flat, so we decided to change our strategy

 

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inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

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inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

 

A slight change in the gusseting design

 

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inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

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inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

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inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

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inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

 

There are going to be some of you that are asking why not just move the engine back farther cut a hole in your firewall and get the shifter in the right spot. I will give you that answer: steering column clearance.

 

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inside by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

 

The day was growing thin, and then it got dark, but we were able to get the big stuff out of the way around 10:30pm.

 

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037 by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

 

I am going to be heading back there today to slot some of the holes, properly mount the bellhousing to the transmission (which apparently doesnt need to be that accurate, just make the hole bigger so that it will fit), and get everything in a towable state so that I can start working on it in a real garage.

 

In regards to the tans-mount: it is pretty much in the exact same spot as the stock one is, but since we had to make a clearance cut I'll just have to modify one side. That is gonna be made after the car is in my garage.

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So today I added some counterbores to the holes for clearance on the bolt heads

 

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nearly there by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

 

Used my favorite carbide bit and ground the **** out of the input shaft hole on the bellhousing

 

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nearly there by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

 

bolted em together

 

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nearly there by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

 

The steering shaft does indeed clear the current motor mounts, so no worries there. However if I go with a 240 (volvo) front mounted dizzy I might be able to move the engine back just enough to be able to use the stock hole for the shifter, but I would have to make my own steering column like rturbo 930 mentioned. In the end that decision will come down to funds.

 

After connecting what needed to be connected I mounted the engine back in the car

 

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nearly there by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

 

and while I was stocking the car with stuff I also put the hood on to see if it clears..

 

-038-

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038 by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

 

it does.

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So today I slotted some holes into the engine mounts and bolted the engine into the car, super zip-tied the transmission into the chassis, and put it on the ground.

 

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on the ground by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

 

checked the clearance of the oil pan

 

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oil pan clearance by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

a bit low

 

Then I called AAA and got the car towed to my new location.

 

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moving the car by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

 

now my lady is nice and warm in her new house

 

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daily life by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

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daily life by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

not to mention she gets to play with cats in the garage, instead of a dog jumping all up on her.

 

After I moved in all of my tools it was made better when I walked down the stairs and peeked in her room

 

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039 by crazyoctopus, on Flickr

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Did you reinforce your frame rails where you attached your engine mounts? I wonder because when I put my 1JZ in I had added 8 inches of plate on top and a piece of angle iron on the side that attached with the plate as well. Im still worried that It might deform, but maybe I took it a little too far.

 

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/2968/521/32417760010_large.jpg there's a pic before the angle iron was welded underneath.

 

really lovin' the build still, seems like everything's already welded in place just but wanted to suggest adding some plate to the rails to help distribute the loads.

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Meph - it is breaks it breaks, but I am not too worried about that happening.

 

BluDestiny - yeah... I am going to have to do pins, the only upside is the fact that it is further weight loss. My Ideal HP/TQ goal was sub 200; sub 2000 lbs car with 200hp/tq. Unfortunately there is no way that I will be able to achieve that goal with the parts that I have. With parts from the junkyard and the stock ECU I am expecting to get around 220-250hp and torque to the wheels.

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BluDestiny - yeah... I am going to have to do pins, the only upside is the fact that it is further weight loss. My Ideal HP/TQ goal was sub 200; sub 2000 lbs car with 200hp/tq. Unfortunately there is no way that I will be able to achieve that goal with the parts that I have. With parts from the junkyard and the stock ECU I am expecting to get around 220-250hp and torque to the wheels.

 

so....that's good.....You sound like you don't want to make that much hp/tq???

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How much hood clearance do you have? that 1/4" of oil pan clearance, even with your limited suspension travel, makes me feel a little ill...one wrong bump on the road and that nifty lookin volvo motor is done for.

 

Yea, a little scary to me too. Can always modify the pan, or make a skid plate.

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