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Guess the 280ZX Turbo RWHP based only on Dyno video


cgmeredithjr

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No ****. The car looks great, has potential. But he keeps posting these threads like it's the best thing since sliced bread, passive arrogance: "Guess how much power it makes!11" "It should be 203.8% more on a dynojet", etc.

 

cjmeredith: Let me put it this way, if you would take as much effort in to posting videos/pics/timeslips of the car instead of defending it and trying to fault other people, we'd be way less... annoyed. Blakt out, or whatever the name of that green 240Z guy who's selling everything and becoming a monk, for example, has a great thread on the work done on his car. Just pictures. They speak for themselves.

 

The amount of ignorance on this board is simply amazing. I'm not the guy that built this car or originally posted absurd claims about the power it supposedly made (798 at the wheels)...I'm the one with the balls to purchase it and test it. Everyone here is watching the testing process as it unfolds, what else do some of you dbags want? Get off your soap boxes, you are taking this whole car thing a little too seriously. :P I specifically bought it for the engine package (add up all those parts and tell me what you come up with) and if I do not sell it, I will drop it in a road racing chassis and mate it to a 5-Speed race box and will have fun with it at Road Atlanta...I'm not a drag racer. The fact that it has made 435RWHP so far on no tuning and low RPM should show some potential.

 

Cleve :lol:

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Tony is correct, the wheel movement is not acceptable. Tont is also correct regarding the movement I had with my car and I did engineer a bushing that stopped a good amount of the wheel moving. I am told, that the trailing arm mounting bravkets welded to the sub frame are to weak to position the tire, or stop the movement, will stop all of the movement of the wheel.

 

The Dyno will not tell you if you are applying the power evenly to both tires. So I ran the car for some time with incorrect alignment of the rear tire on the passenger side of the car. Not to much of a problem with street tires.

The first time I did a run with my wrinkle wall's what a ride that was. I did my normal wot run and the way the car was aligned was so far out in the rear I could hardly keep the car on the road and it was a three lane street. I came up on power and I was doing a quick lane change. I had to almost go a half turn on the steering wheel to get the car to go strait, changed two lanes in about two seconds when I got into it. What a surprise that was, the car would not go strait, then I took a look at the alignment and what a surprise that was also.

I have a set of trailing arm adjusters from specialty products to make the rear adjustable. So the alignment guy gets the car on the machine and does the alignment, yes it is all good now, WRONG! The new digital alignment machine said it was good, but when I had good traction, the TRUE alignment showed its ugly face, and the car would not pull strait. Upon further investigation, I found that the 1/2" offset of the adjusters were not positioned in the same general place, and in fact the left side adjuster was adjusted so the offset was closest to the K member, and the right side offset was the furthest away from the K member. There simply was NO WAY the rear of the car was aligned correct. I made the adjustment to the right side of the car and it started pulling strait.

The rear K member of the car is floating so to speak. Nissan did not want all of the "noise" associated with a solid mount to the car chassis. No problem for me, and I don't think it is to loud. I also installed the "poly Derlin" bushings for the trailing arms, so that also are mounted "solid" with the additional parts for the trailing arms.

According to Tony, and Frank the right tire was still moving on the dyno, and from what I found with the alignment on the right, that accounted for some of the movement (and tweaking the car chassis) That was @ 489RWHP on the mustang dyno. The car needed more work to secure the rear wheels in a fixed position.

You need to fix the wheel movement or that car is going to throw you all over the place, and believe me, when you are under good power, you don't need to be putting that much time and effort into steering the car under power to keep it going strait, there is plenty other things to think about when you are racing.

 

Lots of squat, but this POS rust bucket actually tracks STRAIGHT down the road under load (only 435RWHP of load so far ;) )

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You totally missed the point---your tire is getting to the point that it will GET CUT if you actually get that POS running right.

 

Being on the throttle and having a blowout on the rear, under power, at 100mph is not a pleasant experience.

 

Fix the movement of the trailing arm or clearance your wheelwells! It's an ACCIDENT WAITING TO HAPPEN. If you actually get the engine running CORRECTLY, I posit as the movie title read: "There Will Be Blood"

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You totally missed the point---your tire is getting to the point that it will GET CUT if you actually get that POS running right.

 

Being on the throttle and having a blowout on the rear, under power, at 100mph is not a pleasant experience.

 

Fix the movement of the trailing arm or clearance your wheelwells! It's an ACCIDENT WAITING TO HAPPEN. If you actually get the engine running CORRECTLY, I posit as the movie title read: "There Will Be Blood"

 

Look closely Tony, the wheel wells have already been clearanced, no tire cutting issue, thanks for your concern. Working through some tuning issues with the engine, made 509RWHP today on the Dyno Dynamics, I'll post the graph tomorrow.

 

Cleve

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Impresive! I knew it could get the 500hp range with not a problem. Same question as above, what boost? That insane claim was on I think 30? PSI, probably with a 150 shot. I could see it with a 150 shot. Do I think the engine would last making that power on a 150 shot? No, do I think its impressive? Yes.

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Impresive! I knew it could get the 500hp range with not a problem. Same question as above, what boost? That insane claim was on I think 30? PSI, probably with a 150 shot. I could see it with a 150 shot. Do I think the engine would last making that power on a 150 shot? No, do I think its impressive? Yes.

 

36PSI (which is ridiculous I know)...I have had a LOT of BIG HP cars and this thing is making a lot more than this dyno sheet implies. I have never had a TH400 car and that must have something to do with this graph flat lining like it is. As soon as this pull was done yesterday afternoon I got in the car and was on my way over to DynoLab so that we could get some comparison numbers on a DynoJet. Well, being the NUMBNUTS that I am, I had to have a taste of 36PSI on the street on the way over there and let her rip in 1st at about 35-40MPH...well when it hit, it hit hard and immediately roasted the ET Streets and banged the rev limiter (probably went a good bit past it) and I managed to bend at least one intake valve (#5) and probably a few more (threw the lash pad on 5). I'll be pulling the head this week and will keep everyone updated. This engine is going to be nasty with a proper manual attached to it.

 

"I like fast cars and faster women, that's why they call me the cruiser"

 

Cleve

280ZX Turbo Dyno 509RWHP1019100001.pdf

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I'm still curious as to what that orange stuff was between the block and the head.

 

Come on Hoover, I thought you had built some Z cars in the past. It's copper head gasket sealant which you spray on both sides of the multi-layered steel head gasket to get a good seal...you really did not know this? :confused:

 

Cleve

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With a bent valve.

 

Unfortunately, I bent the valve after the dyno session...would be a good excuse though. I had done a compression test when I first took delivery of the car and it was 125-130 across the board, but who knows, maybe as the testing was progressing, the valvetrain took a beating. I'll have the head off in a day or 2.

 

Cleve

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Just curious, why do you think you bent a valve?

 

First I did a quick compression test and determined that #5 had ZERO compression which meant either the piston went bye bye or a valve must be stuck open. I determined that I bent a valve by removing the valve cover and observing that the #5 intake valve lash pad was missing and the #5 valve spring was compressed with no pressure from the corresponding rocker arm...valve was bent in the open position and could not return to closed position...I do know a little bit about engines B)

 

Were you trying as usual to be a prick with this question?

 

Cleve

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